eightinavee said:
You have it the wrong way round ! The crank sensor is the all important one - it has no backup,so must work or the engine wont go.It is not just for TDC either,it is used for overall engine speed AND misfire detection.The ecu watches the gaps between crank sensor pulses to see if each individual firing event takes place.If the pulse gaps narrow it can tell a cylinder has fired,if the gaps widen it knows the crank has slowed down - then will log a misfire.If the misfire is persistant it will store a DTC.
That it runs without the cam sensor is normal,it just cant tell that cyl,s are on compression or exhaust strokes,so runs bank fired not sequential and disables the knock sensors - hence the OP's engine pinking.All his engines symptoms add up,scoping it would soon show whats going on....
Click to expand...

Your on the same track as me everything you have said is spot on, i haven't scoped the engine because i don't have that equipment at my disposal anymore :( however i have changed the cam sensor for a known good one and its just the same, i will change the crank sensor today and hope fully that will sort it, the the engine is a 2001 Thor, i doubt the cam sprocket has been changed i believe it a untouched original engine but never say never.

I can confirm that someone has already been at the crank sensor in the past as the wires have been soldered back on, so it is possible than the sensor could be giving incorrect pulses however when i removed it for bench test it seamed fine but then i am not operating as fast as the engine.

I can also confirm if you unplug the cam sensor the engine will still start run the same, however if you unplug the crank sensor with the engine running it will cut out and not re-start.

Thanks for the help, i don't wish to disclose any Info about me on a public forum i hope you understand ! :)
 
remedave said:
Your on the same track as me everything you have said is spot on, i haven't scoped the engine because i don't have that equipment at my disposal anymore :( however i have changed the cam sensor for a known good one and its just the same, i will change the crank sensor today and hope fully that will sort it, the the engine is a 2001 Thor, i doubt the cam sprocket has been changed i believe it a untouched original engine but never say never.

I can confirm that someone has already been at the crank sensor in the past as the wires have been soldered back on, so it is possible than the sensor could be giving incorrect pulses however when i removed it for bench test it seamed fine but then i am not operating as fast as the engine.

I can also confirm if you unplug the cam sensor the engine will still start run the same, however if you unplug the crank sensor with the engine running it will cut out and not re-start.

Thanks for the help, i don't wish to disclose any Info about me on a public forum i hope you understand ! :)
Click to expand...

can you not get rid of the soldered section of wire as well,if somebody has been messing around with that,it could poss be a dry joint etc etc.good luck with the crank sensor,lets hope it sorts it out for you.;)
 
cheers hope i do get it sorted it the Wife's motor she's got my van and in the hot weather she's grumping about it too LOL, i offered her my battered old disco but she declined :eek:

The solder has been done right at the top of the sensor someone has hacked the top of it probably to get something to solder too, the soldering is old and oily too, i am hoping that this is the fault and indeed oil has getting into the sensor etc etc

Are thor and gems sensors interchangeable ? they look the same.
 
remedave said:
cheers hope i do get it sorted it the Wife's motor she's got my van and in the hot weather she's grumping about it too LOL, i offered her my battered old disco but she declined :eek:

The solder has been done right at the top of the sensor someone has hacked the top of it probably to get something to solder too, the soldering is old and oily too, i am hoping that this is the fault and indeed oil has getting into the sensor etc etc

Are thor and gems sensors interchangeable ? they look the same.
Click to expand...

no idea,sorry.;)
 
Any way are we all friends now or am i still the smart arse newcomer thats never been on a forum before and who chose this one and should really F off because none likes him ?
 
remedave said:
cheers hope i do get it sorted it the Wife's motor she's got my van and in the hot weather she's grumping about it too LOL, i offered her my battered old disco but she declined :eek:

The solder has been done right at the top of the sensor someone has hacked the top of it probably to get something to solder too, the soldering is old and oily too, i am hoping that this is the fault and indeed oil has getting into the sensor etc etc

Are thor and gems sensors interchangeable ? they look the same.
Click to expand...

No idea have they got different part numbers that may give a clue.
 
According to Microcat ERR2261 to TA346793. ERR6169 from TA346794. Change was in 1997. Crank sensor also changed from ERR3006 to ERR6357 at same time. One point is the wiring diagram you commented on was for 1998 cars, the 1999 and on diagram that you should be looking at for your year of car is totally different.
 
wammers said:
According to Microcat ERR2261 to TA346793. ERR6169 from TA346794. Change was in 1997. Crank sensor also changed from ERR3006 to ERR6357 at same time. One point is the wiring diagram you commented on was for 1998 cars, the 1999 and on diagram that you should be looking at for your year of car is totally different.
Click to expand...

Well thats good and bad news then, a least the sensors are correct bollix with the diagram, however it did look plausible what changes are different ?
 
remedave said:
Any way are we all friends now or am i still the smart arse newcomer thats never been on a forum before and who chose this one and should really F off because none likes him ?
Click to expand...

Your still the smart arse newcomer :p

But stick around ;)

Rule number one for me

Any issues always, always check out somebody else's bodges first. As soon as you said the leads had been soldered ............ :rolleyes:

I'd put good money on what you've said so far that'll be where the fault is
 
Bromsgrove Defender said:
Your still the smart arse newcomer :p

But stick around ;)

Rule number one for me

Any issues always, always check out somebody else's bodges first. As soon as you said the leads had been soldered ............ :rolleyes:

I'd put good money on what you've said so far that'll be where the fault is
Click to expand...

Yeah someone else's bodges, that the thing i am starting to get my head around now with land rovers i have a 300 tdi disco and everything has been bodged i have literally spent 3 months undoing bodges and the worst one the front calliper bolts fell out when i first got it so after that i stripped all critical parts and rebuilt, bodged to death the whole motor made me very angry and more worried that people are driving round if vehicles in this state, if i had begin rattling down the motorway and the calliper dropped of i probably wouldn't be here as it locked the wheel, luckily when it did i was just pulling away from the pub !
 
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