Hi, Is it possible to remove and replace a liner?

ive seen a youtube clip of a block being heated to 400deg and the liners tapped out, I was wondering if I had a good secondhand one (cant find new ones) in the fridge I could knock it in while still hot?


I have a 4.6 block which has had water sitting in the bores, a couple of cylinders have rust damage
thanks regards Tim.
 
Thank you for the replies, last night I warmed up the block with a roofing torch, didn’t reach anymore than 300deg, the liners just pushed out , I will now do a pressure test to see if there are any cracks as the two liners I was concerned about look a bit gungy where they were in the block. There’s evidence of combustion deposits on some of the other ones, not sure if that’s relevant. What I can see is a clear step at the bottom for the liner to stop on, so I cannot imagine them slipping in this block, do other blocks not have this as I’ve read about liners slipping?


I also warmed up a 3.9 block I had and pushed the liners out of that to see if they would be suitable replacements, they appear the same just 1/4 " longer.
If the block is ok and not cracked I am going to atempt putting the liners back in by warming up the block and having the liners in the fridge, is this how Rover put them in I wonder?
The 3.9 also has provision for stopping the liner dropping, rather than a complete step it has blocks .
Best regards Tim.
 
I admire your tenacity & aptitude, as far as I know this is not normally the sort of level undertaken (with apologies to those who have done so)
Whatever 'provision' the liners had it didn't stop mine moving, number three if I remember rightly. With the 4.6 having a longer stroke why would the 3.9 liners be longer I wonder ?
Wishing you luck with the end result.
 
Well done that man once you have refitted the liners why not pin themy then you won't have to worry ever again about them slipping
 
Later blocks had steps at the bottom to stop liners dropping. It still happened though as many liners were not pressed in fully during assembly, my P38 had this happen on 2 of the later blocks. I bought a top hat block done at CME but that failed eventually due to a crack.
Turners would be my choice.
 
Thank you, perhaps not unexpectedly, but ive found a couple of cracks. Glad I pressure tested it before proceeding.
Can this be repaired? welded perhaps?
1501937634727.jpg
 
Can be repaired using top hat(flanged) liners. Not always successfully but 98% I guess. PS these will still leak pressure its the cylinder head and gasket that provides the seal at the top and silcon at the bottom. I personally would highly recommend acr in deeside. These specialise in machining land Rover engines and Roland is well worth speaking to.turners are equally renowned. I caution you against cheaper providers from experience and say acr and Turner's address the failure of this type of repair in slightly different ways.
 

Similar threads