Right , when fitting the timing chain sprocket to the cam I noticed the woodruff key was not in level so when I went to the fit the dizzy drive gear it would not fit over it. I adjusted this with a rubber mallet and it now just fits over.

When originally fitting the woodruff key in the cam we took quite a lot of care to make sure it was not over its 31mm inc cam (or whatever its supposed to be I cant remember) so as not to block off the oil way. I have to say neither the new or orginal keys were a great fit in the camtech cam even with fettling, so we were right ont he size limit.

I am worried about the key slipping out with centrifugal force over time and blocking off the oilway- suggestions please?

I really dont want to have to take the sprocket off again a third time now we have the cam timing bob on.

Also a little worried about it slipping out/sheering if its that looser fit slidingt he chain sprocket on can move it :0
 
As it stands would it be possible to drop in a little silver solder just to hold it in place ? The heat of the engine oil wont be enough to re melt the solder
 
i wondered that or locktite if i can keep it out of the oil way, maybe in the dizzy driver gear slot as its such a tight fit
 
I use something called stud 65 or grade 65, its a red liquid like loctite but tougher. My mate uses it on artics (and gives me a bottle every so often) when they build stuff so that might be worth a look at if you want to go down that route
 
got sum mega high temp high strength loctite thats red, it wont budge lol

hows your build/s going doc? ive been slacking in keeping up on here
 
that'll do then :p


Currently in limbo.......with exams and coursework, industrial placement interviews and a shiny series one! I've had no time but got an engine (8.2L V8) and gearbox sat in the yard and just been making space to bring in a couple of 90's that need work doing on them. Once they're welded up/engine swapped I'll have enough cash to finish off.

ATM I'm just hand forming parts for the bodywork, steel frames 1/8th thick then skin it with 1.6mm
 
i know what u mean its ages since i started this, with waiting on machines shops, parts from aus, arm surgery with 16 week recovery, going to america for a month and then my assistants woman trouble its just gone on and on :eek:
 
least its progressing ;) my parts from the states have arrived so I've got an oil pump, overhaul gasket kit and a few other bits to go on

Luckily no machine shops for me at this point in time but I've been waiting about 4 weeks for my headers to be sorted at the metalworks, only just picked them up on thursday and I need to finish them off myself now!

You got a deadline set for this ? I've given up time wise :eek:
 
well its supposed to be my assistants wedding car soon, Jamesmartin is building me a new lt95 and the old box leaks so bad and overdrive is so noisy now it wont do the wedding run without it, so if im changing the box i may aswel put the new engine and clutch in at the same time. gonna be a push if the headers need modifying too
 
Did you not fit 4.6L heads so if so your original headers should fit unless the blocks a lot wider!

I've not looked at the dimensions of the P76 block so wouldn't know how tight a fit its going to be but at least the new engine will get mated to a new box.

You just using the original style OD or splashing out for a RM epicyclic one ?
 
its about 40mm wider, stock heads and 4.6 ones have the same ports but yes 4.6 heads on her. got a stock rebuilt od from zen, should be ok,
 
You could look at doing what I did. The woodruff oil feed is pretty awful to start with.
I made a redirect for the oil that returns from the heads to go directly to the chain.
 
I did wonder about that, but I dont really want to drill the block as its got the earlier weaker webbing anyway and with it being taller and wider I think I may be asking for trouble. I did wonder if the front of the sump dips the chain in sump oil anyway tbh, its more the dizzy drive gear I am worried about getting enough oil, it seems it comes out of the cam through the spacer/fuel pump cam and drips off on the back side of the dizzy drive gear not the front, so how does enough get to the dizzy?
 
Its pretty awful for oiling the chain and drive gear, you could run a small gauge pipe from the pump output (with some kind of adjustable valve) to feed up to the drive gear, via an external pipe.
 
the bottom of the chin must get dipped at least every time you brake as its right by the front main cap, i wonder if they rely on that?

re lifter preload do peeps know if it has to be the same sized shims on both banks?
 
fett said:
the bottom of the chin must get dipped at least every time you brake as its right by the front main cap, i wonder if they rely on that?

re lifter preload do peeps know if it has to be the same sized shims on both banks?
Click to expand...
shims need to the same size per shaft not per side
 
ok good, thanks as one side with the thicker shims in I was just able to keep the preload above 20thou and the other side with thicker shims in some were quite tight to get the wire in so I went to medium shims, the only problem is one or two lifters on that side now have a gap of 1.6mm which is over 60 thou (1.52mm).

I dont know whether to got back to the thick shims but it was too tight to get the 20 thou wire in on a couple of lifters if I do- better to tight or too loose?

Answers soon please guys as the lifters have been soaking over night ready to go in :D
 
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