what about the hang time on the piston at tdc, how do you know where the actual top is?

I dont have an indicator really, what would you suggest?
 
a stick:D mark just a it reaches top on pulley and then as just leave top on pulley middle is tdc and hopefully tallies with pulley mark if not your new one the middle of those 2 marks you drew slack in chain by turning crank both clockwise and anti wont matter in determining tdc but does when setting chain
 
I am guessing I can leave the chain on to do this test, I can then check if it by luck the pointer that is slightly out with the new chain :D
 
fett said:
I am guessing I can leave the chain on to do this test, I can then check if by luck the pointer is slightly out with the new chain :D
Click to expand...
yes ,once you know were tdc is exactly,hopefully the mark if not a new mark you can set cam precisely ,one of the key ways will put cam as good as possible
obviously the setting depends on chain been tight as that how it will be when running,hence the turning over twice
 
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clockwise right?

hopefully its right now then but will give it a go, thanks mate :D
 
right the next job will be to feck about with the tcd and cheack the marks right as james suggested but after that i need to do the lifter preload. annoyingly I have lost my lifter preload kit in the 6 month since I bough it but rather then fork out more ££££ agai I thought I had better see if I need any shims.

found these instruction online:
Tuning the Rover V8

from memory of the instructions with my own lost kit I needed one piece of wire at 1mm and one at 1.5mm ( I have 0.98 and 1.58 hope that will be ok?)

what I dont understand is how they translate in to the reading I need- is it as simple as if the 1.5 doesnt fit in, so long as the 1mm does fit in I am ok? ie ok is between 40 and 60 thou lifter preload?

and also all this has to be done on the same cylinder (1 cylinder at a time) with both valves shut on that cylinder?

Thanks
 
Don't trust any pointer or pulley marks for true TDC. The established way is to knock out the center of the spark plug and replace it with a rod that is long enough to touch the piston crown before TDC is reached. Make a mark A on the pulley. Turn the engine the other way until the piston comes up and touches the rod again - from the other side. Mark B on the pulley. Another mark dead centre of the two marks you have just made will be true TDC - Easy. This might help
TDC.jpg
 
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or use which you really need anyway..two dti's

one on lifter one on piston.
 
so..how did it go?(op)

and..why did you decide upon the 4.4??seems a very hard and expensive route...to get same or even less power than 4.6..

could have gone 4.6 with top hat liners or even gm ls series (sooo much more power)and still had enough cash left (from what you spent) to go on 2 week hols to florida..

abit confused...
 
Thanks pal lol.

the top hat liner stock long or short motor (cant remember) was 2 or 3k from turners plus id need a donor for the other bits

with mine its far from stock parts and I dont have to worry about slipped liners and will have 300 ftlbs N/A with a 2 barrel which is what i wanted, and without the machine shop feckups and delays this would have come in at 1500, plus i always wanted to rebuild a v8 which was my main reason for doing this. however if i had my time again i would have done my sd1 3.5 motor in the way mark did his engine first as a practice run and then considered my options,prob small block chev maybe-although that didnt work out so easy for u either tbh :p

Arms feckin sore and got weeks of one handed typing and bordom to recover :(
 
and gees an ls supplied an fitted for 2.5k with all the wiring and gearbox sorted and my drivline upgraded to take 400 hp- come do it zen and i will pay, will be glad 4 u to supply and fit megasquirt and dial it all in for that prce too :D
 
and what makes you fink your driveline (read half shafts) and brakes are gonna cope with 300 torques?? not to mention the soon to be ex o/d..??

i will have another lt95 + o/d for sale soon..comes out this week weather depending..

i finks you need to start stockpiling them..lol
 
standard 3.5..rebuilt (decent cam headers )+ supercharger would have cost less than grand...and more powerr to boot.....

just a thought..
 
Surely shouldn't be overly stressed as at cruising speed with OD there's not going to be a huge amount of shock loading or torque as the peak will be midrange rather than at cruising rpm
 
do what???

if you cant build a boosted 3.5 for sub 1k then you is ****e..

engine..one already has..rebore if needed 200.pistons and bearings 250..cam 150 tappets 50...supercharger 100...so leaving..250 for gaskets head skimming if needed etc..easy...

if rebore not needed then even cheaper..

my 4.6 was much less than 1k including supercharger,autobox,ecu,looms,cam etc..
 
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