When that happened to me it peed diesel out standing with the engine running at an autoroute tollbooth! The airflow flung it all over the underside, inside the handbrake drum and over the rear door! Easy repair though.
loonyspoony
Member
.
Last edited:
Maat
Active Member
Hi,
I've been trying to find the cause of my poor starting for a long while. I didn't even know the Discovery has a sedimenter. I just checked and it's still there. I have now narrowed down the issue to it either air being sucked in at the leak off pipes, or at the sedimenter.
My question is, to by-pass the sedimenter off, should I run new lines from the tank to the fuel filter housing, or is it possible to to simply join the existing lines at the sedimenter?
Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread.
I've been trying to find the cause of my poor starting for a long while. I didn't even know the Discovery has a sedimenter. I just checked and it's still there. I have now narrowed down the issue to it either air being sucked in at the leak off pipes, or at the sedimenter.
My question is, to by-pass the sedimenter off, should I run new lines from the tank to the fuel filter housing, or is it possible to to simply join the existing lines at the sedimenter?
Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
you can just join the pipes from the sedimenter. These normally leak(let air in)on the top.
I would change the leak off pipes before doing the above. It’s an easy job
Maat
Active Member
Thanks, I think I'll do both regardless.
I've been looking on the web for leak off pipes and although I seem to remember seeing silicone ones somewhere at some point, they are nowhere to be found. Does somebody know about this or is it a fabricated memory?
If you will excuse my ignorance, as it's not a nice place to hangout in this weather under the car - will the pipes at sedimenter simply join together or is there some adapter I should purchase before messing about with spanners?
I've been looking on the web for leak off pipes and although I seem to remember seeing silicone ones somewhere at some point, they are nowhere to be found. Does somebody know about this or is it a fabricated memory?
If you will excuse my ignorance, as it's not a nice place to hangout in this weather under the car - will the pipes at sedimenter simply join together or is there some adapter I should purchase before messing about with spanners?
Last lot I bought were just straight tube to be cut to length from Norauto in France. They came with blanking pipes too. So a very mainstream auto parts shop. They may well have not been silicon though.
loonyspoony
Member
Right another update - not a good one.
So spent the day on the disco again today, to start with i re-tried the gravity fed line and had alot of stalling issues this time round, no air at all in the system. So it may of just been a fluke that it previously ran nicely!
So i spat my dummy out and removed ALL injectors, soaked and cleaned them (they where pretty dirty but cleaned up fairly well), removed pipework that goes from pump to injecters soaked and blew out with airline (all cleared and clean so no issues there)
Put it all back together, bled the system still using the gravity feed, fired up, ran lumpy for 10-15 seconds, cleared up ran quite nicely, little to no smoke, ran itself at about 4-500rpm (i know its not ideal but better than it has been) for a good 3/4minutes then died and then doing the same as before.
I have ordered a new lift pump and a "boost pin" as these are cheap parts to replace. Before i go to the route of new injectors.
So i guess my question is, am i doing the right thing here? Am i missing something? Im really hoping the pump isnt knackered due to the price of them.
So spent the day on the disco again today, to start with i re-tried the gravity fed line and had alot of stalling issues this time round, no air at all in the system. So it may of just been a fluke that it previously ran nicely!
So i spat my dummy out and removed ALL injectors, soaked and cleaned them (they where pretty dirty but cleaned up fairly well), removed pipework that goes from pump to injecters soaked and blew out with airline (all cleared and clean so no issues there)
Put it all back together, bled the system still using the gravity feed, fired up, ran lumpy for 10-15 seconds, cleared up ran quite nicely, little to no smoke, ran itself at about 4-500rpm (i know its not ideal but better than it has been) for a good 3/4minutes then died and then doing the same as before.
I have ordered a new lift pump and a "boost pin" as these are cheap parts to replace. Before i go to the route of new injectors.
So i guess my question is, am i doing the right thing here? Am i missing something? Im really hoping the pump isnt knackered due to the price of them.
loonyspoony
Member
It may well be, but on removal they was caked, so had a soak and a clean and all debris washed off the tip . Wasnt a professional job by any means.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Boost pin… remove,inspect replace. Of course make sure you mark the location/orientation. This should not wear but may have stuck.
On your gravity feed… if you open the bleed nipple on the fuel filter does diesel run out? If not you may be pulling air & diesel into the system & making it run lumpy.
Take a photo of the HP pump and post it. We can make sure of the type used.
loonyspoony
Member
Boost pin is being replaced on arrival and so is lift pump (boost pin was well in there and did struggle to remove initially but was freed up after removal, and was marked before removal.
I did run with nipple open and a tiny amount of air escaped but then was just diesel - and tbf when i opened it, it initially ran slightly better but then went straight back to being just as lumpy. This is the only picture i have and right now its pitch black out but will get a better picture tomorrow if needed
Attachments
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
No need for another photo… that’s an edc pump. All electronics link up to egr valve,number 4 injector and some other parts.
Was helping someone last weekend & wont rev more than 2000 as electronics preventing any more. Got it running but edc is your problem as well
loonyspoony
Member
Would this be affected by removing the immobilised stop solenoid (i also removed the wiring it came with as had that anti tamper box thing on), so whats the work around for this? Egr blank and removal? Does it need programming out?
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
It’s not as simple as removing h the egr. It all talks to each part.
You have to bypass it all,which I don’t know how. Most remove the injection pump & replace it with a non edc.
Good luck
(That’s why I run a 200tdi zero electronics on them)
loonyspoony
Member
Appreciate all the help mate. But without removing the current pump, that DOES appear to work, what is my course of action?
loonyspoony
Member
Ive also just had a read, and apparently the EDC pumps where only fitted to automatics and this is manual?
Maat
Active Member
That's what I thought as well, and I've been told the little thing is only for the EGR. Mine is disconnected and runs fine. Throttle is via cable.
loonyspoony
Member
mine is cable aswell (as seen in the picture sent)
