dstainton

dstainton

Well-Known Member
I've read a lot about the poor design of the water-pump location on these engines. Where and what can I do to circumvent this issue, i.e.. it being to late by the time you know there's a low water problem. So i'd like an indication from a different location if there is a significant loss of coolant
 
i think theres more issues with rad filling and emptying on the same side than water pump, fit a brass plug into the top of thermostat housing and check its full regularly
 
Some years back we toyed with the idea of a coolant level gauge in the header tank. The float sensor can be scrounged from another vehicle but sealing it in proved to be a bit of a faff. Now though, there are hot-glue-gun sticks for repairing plastic bodywork, and, I am told, they work to seal in a thingy stuffed in a hole. As it were. Just a point of interest.

As the man says, its not so much the placement of the pump...
...however I found with 300s that the quality of the water pump was very important. That and careful, correct fitting of the bloody P gasket and those sodding awful long bolts. If you are not sure what constitutes a good quality water pump (Im not! I havnt done any 300s for a while) ask around. Because high price doesnt always mean high quality.
 
Clever! Well, cleverer than me...and as we know, that doesnt take much. But still....
 
mine ties in overheat switch from thermostat housing, low water level, and auto/manual switch to trigger the air con fans, with warning light on dash :). has safety sense on ign on, so you know it is all working too :p
 
Order a PRC7925.

This is for the Range Rover but fits the 300TDi.

Th stalk has a reed switch that is triggered by a magnet. When it arrives, the reed works the wrong way round - that is a high water condition shorts the contacts.

What you want is the other way round - high water keeps contacts open. So you pull the float off the end, and then put it on the wrong way up. The keeper plastic disc on the bottom can then be melted back on with a dab from a soldering iron.

Now you take the level sensor for the braking system and you tap each connector wire so it also connects across the water sensor. Then - if the water or the brake fluid gets too low it will light the dash lamp and you then get an immediate stop warning.

Because I'm a little nervous of missing a light I also have a 12V buzzer wired across my oil pressure and brake lights - so any problems and the buzzer also triggers.
 
chris-the-gerbil said:
Order a PRC7925.

This is for the Range Rover but fits the 300TDi.

Th stalk has a reed switch that is triggered by a magnet. When it arrives, the reed works the wrong way round - that is a high water condition shorts the contacts.

What you want is the other way round - high water keeps contacts open. So you pull the float off the end, and then put it on the wrong way up. The keeper plastic disc on the bottom can then be melted back on with a dab from a soldering iron.

Now you take the level sensor for the braking system and you tap each connector wire so it also connects across the water sensor. Then - if the water or the brake fluid gets too low it will light the dash lamp and you then get an immediate stop warning.

Because I'm a little nervous of missing a light I also have a 12V buzzer wired across my oil pressure and brake lights - so any problems and the buzzer also triggers.
Click to expand...


See post#5.
Why use the brake warning light when you can use an overtemp warning light :p?
 
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