Mudron
Active Member
good on you
good on you
pauldaf44
Active Member
Not got anywhere with this at all.
Seller is now refusing to pay for repairs that he instructed. He also is not prepared to accept the vehicle shouldn't have passed the MOT he put it through despite and independent MOT station having confirmed that these items should have failed.
Problems rot in the rear cross member over a body mount.
Rotten boot floor within 30cm of seatbelt mount.
Broken dickie seat buckle.
Windscreen wipers that park obscuring the drivers view.
Wont accept that worn crank pulley and woodruff key would have any affect on the cars running and states that the performance is normal for a 300TDI.
Im not sure whether I should fight for this or not or just cut my losses scrap it and find another one.
A chat with trading standards might be in order and reporting the dodgy MOT to VOSA.
This by the way is a trade seller who buys only land rovers performs a "makeover" and sells them on.
Seller is now refusing to pay for repairs that he instructed. He also is not prepared to accept the vehicle shouldn't have passed the MOT he put it through despite and independent MOT station having confirmed that these items should have failed.
Problems rot in the rear cross member over a body mount.
Rotten boot floor within 30cm of seatbelt mount.
Broken dickie seat buckle.
Windscreen wipers that park obscuring the drivers view.
Wont accept that worn crank pulley and woodruff key would have any affect on the cars running and states that the performance is normal for a 300TDI.
Im not sure whether I should fight for this or not or just cut my losses scrap it and find another one.
A chat with trading standards might be in order and reporting the dodgy MOT to VOSA.
This by the way is a trade seller who buys only land rovers performs a "makeover" and sells them on.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Trading standards, citizens advice and/or county court.
Mudron
Active Member
I work around the corner from a vosa run test bay, the one of the examiners comes in to work all the time. Apparently you can take a car to them, they will MOT it, and if it should of been a fail, the repercussions for the garage that passed it are very very serious.
The car can be deemed as dangerous for the road, and they CAN possibly loose their licence to perform MOT's, not to mention fines. If it is that bad, they can, and do, go back and check previous vehicles MOT'd for road-worthyness, and this can further be a nail in the coffin.
The chap said they do get a lot of concerned motorists coming in, and 9 out of 10 are those that have just bought a second hand car.
The car can be deemed as dangerous for the road, and they CAN possibly loose their licence to perform MOT's, not to mention fines. If it is that bad, they can, and do, go back and check previous vehicles MOT'd for road-worthyness, and this can further be a nail in the coffin.
The chap said they do get a lot of concerned motorists coming in, and 9 out of 10 are those that have just bought a second hand car.
1997 Discovery
Active Member
I had the same fault on my EDC Auto - turns out the No4 injector with the EDC Sensor built in became fautly - this was found out after a diagnostic check was carried out.
Fingers crossed it gets sorted soon
Fingers crossed it gets sorted soon
tonydiscoedc
New Member
<P>
<P>if this temp sensor is faulty or as in my case the wiring when starting from cold it thinks it is warm and doesn't adjust the fueling to compensate for the cold start</P>
I too have been having trouble trying to sort out starting problem on edc model tdi and having changed numerous new items with no luck last weekend I removed the top engine cover and unplugged the temp sensor only fitted to edc models and cut off the black sleeving protecting the wiring and found it snapped and touching together so I cut wiring back and you have to lengthen the wiring because it isn't long enough and then crimp 2 small spade connectors back on and make sure they are connected the correct way and insulated this has cured my starting problem.</P>
<P>if this temp sensor is faulty or as in my case the wiring when starting from cold it thinks it is warm and doesn't adjust the fueling to compensate for the cold start</P>
SpaceDawg
Active Member
Ah, that temperature sensor I will check on mine, yesterday I checked all the earths, its had everything bloody else done to it, glow plugs, lift pump, bleed pipes etc etc etc, it does 30mpg on a run and starts perfectly when warm.
So that may be the baby.
Had a google and found this.
http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=26316
So that may be the baby.
Had a google and found this.
http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=26316
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pauldaf44
Active Member
Is the sender that does dash engine temp gauge the same as the one that does the EDC. On the way home tonight my temp gauge breifly dropped to zero and then recovered again back to its normal position just below 1/2 on the gauge.
Will check the connector for a short when it stops raining. Ive a feeling its not going to be the same sender and the dash gauges funny 5 mins is just a coincidence.
Will check the connector for a short when it stops raining. Ive a feeling its not going to be the same sender and the dash gauges funny 5 mins is just a coincidence.
pauldaf44
Active Member
When cold run the glow till the light goes out. Turn to start and she will crank for 20 to 30s splutter a bit every so often and then suddenly burst into life as if nothing was ever wrong revs pick up to 1000rpm as she starts and then fall back to a steady tickover.
It does not matter how many times I run the glowplugs. She is worse in cold and damp weather. Sometimes it will start after a few seconds of cranking other times you can crank away until the battery goes flat without firing. All the time she is coughing and trying to fire she gives clouds of unburnt diesel but once running no smoke at all no matter what you do.
If given easy start she will fire straight away. Im sure its fuel related but the supply is good and she is not drawing in air im starting to think I may have to change the injection pump.
It does not matter how many times I run the glowplugs. She is worse in cold and damp weather. Sometimes it will start after a few seconds of cranking other times you can crank away until the battery goes flat without firing. All the time she is coughing and trying to fire she gives clouds of unburnt diesel but once running no smoke at all no matter what you do.
If given easy start she will fire straight away. Im sure its fuel related but the supply is good and she is not drawing in air im starting to think I may have to change the injection pump.
pauldaf44
Active Member
New battery already fitted it didn't make the blindest bit of difference.
As for the performance it seem to run okay but always feels like something is holding it back and is gutless on hills. Get it up to speed though and it will cruise fine at 70mph it just will not accelerate and loses speed on hills. A 16% gradient will see it down to 20mph and struggling.
Mpg is crap to be honest id have been better with a V8. Average 18mpg to 22mpg. Something is definatly not right though.
The engine does appear to be in good condition mechanically as it is showing nice healthy compression figures. Apart from being a bit tappy it makes no untoward noises when running.
As for the performance it seem to run okay but always feels like something is holding it back and is gutless on hills. Get it up to speed though and it will cruise fine at 70mph it just will not accelerate and loses speed on hills. A 16% gradient will see it down to 20mph and struggling.
Mpg is crap to be honest id have been better with a V8. Average 18mpg to 22mpg. Something is definatly not right though.
The engine does appear to be in good condition mechanically as it is showing nice healthy compression figures. Apart from being a bit tappy it makes no untoward noises when running.
Mudron
Active Member
research something called the hammer mod on the vp pump, its easier for you to read how to do it and why it works rather than me explain.
But it basically changes the IQ ever so slightly. This is done to compensate for different nozzles to make idle smoother and better mpg.
It may be worth trying this method just as an exercise to see if things improve, if they do then your pump solenoid is worn and most probably the plunger is also scored and worn.
But it basically changes the IQ ever so slightly. This is done to compensate for different nozzles to make idle smoother and better mpg.
It may be worth trying this method just as an exercise to see if things improve, if they do then your pump solenoid is worn and most probably the plunger is also scored and worn.
1997 Discovery
Active Member
Mine had the exact same fault, turned out to be a faulty number 4 injector, I found the fault by having a diagnostic check done
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Datatek
Well-Known Member
Low cranking speed will cause that kind of problem. Bad earth connections or a duff starter motor are possibles. Had the same problem on my tractor, turned out to be a bearing shot in the starter motor.
