That is very impressive. Mine managed 21mpg on the last tank full. Not sure what she is doing on this tank post servicing but I suspect there is an economy improvement if not a power improvement.

Spoke to the seller (trader) and he said to bring it back to him on friday and he will get his mechanic to look at it. Seeing as its under warranty it will go back for repair work.

Thanks for the advice though people I will pass it on when I drop the car to him. I fully intend to ask for it to be fixed and the issues it should have failed on also be rectified or a partial refund to what the vehicle was actually worth in its current condition.

good on you
 
Not got anywhere with this at all.

Seller is now refusing to pay for repairs that he instructed. He also is not prepared to accept the vehicle shouldn't have passed the MOT he put it through despite and independent MOT station having confirmed that these items should have failed.

Problems rot in the rear cross member over a body mount.
Rotten boot floor within 30cm of seatbelt mount.
Broken dickie seat buckle.
Windscreen wipers that park obscuring the drivers view.

Wont accept that worn crank pulley and woodruff key would have any affect on the cars running and states that the performance is normal for a 300TDI.

Im not sure whether I should fight for this or not or just cut my losses scrap it and find another one.

A chat with trading standards might be in order and reporting the dodgy MOT to VOSA.

This by the way is a trade seller who buys only land rovers performs a "makeover" and sells them on.
 
Not got anywhere with this at all.

Seller is now refusing to pay for repairs that he instructed. He also is not prepared to accept the vehicle shouldn't have passed the MOT he put it through despite and independent MOT station having confirmed that these items should have failed.

Problems rot in the rear cross member over a body mount.
Rotten boot floor within 30cm of seatbelt mount.
Broken dickie seat buckle.
Windscreen wipers that park obscuring the drivers view.

Wont accept that worn crank pulley and woodruff key would have any affect on the cars running and states that the performance is normal for a 300TDI.

Im not sure whether I should fight for this or not or just cut my losses scrap it and find another one.

A chat with trading standards might be in order and reporting the dodgy MOT to VOSA.

This by the way is a trade seller who buys only land rovers performs a "makeover" and sells them on.

Trading standards, citizens advice and/or county court.
 
I work around the corner from a vosa run test bay, the one of the examiners comes in to work all the time. Apparently you can take a car to them, they will MOT it, and if it should of been a fail, the repercussions for the garage that passed it are very very serious.

The car can be deemed as dangerous for the road, and they CAN possibly loose their licence to perform MOT's, not to mention fines. If it is that bad, they can, and do, go back and check previous vehicles MOT'd for road-worthyness, and this can further be a nail in the coffin.

The chap said they do get a lot of concerned motorists coming in, and 9 out of 10 are those that have just bought a second hand car.
 
Got her back today and she has a new lift pump fitted no a lot of improvement but I think ive found the problem.

When undone the fuel cap hisses for a good few seconds so that will be a blocked breather causing a vacuum to form in the tank. Time to rebuild the cap.
 
I had the same fault on my EDC Auto - turns out the No4 injector with the EDC Sensor built in became fautly - this was found out after a diagnostic check was carried out.

Fingers crossed it gets sorted soon
 
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Firstly an apology for a TDI starting problems thread I know there are loads out there and I've read most of them and am still not able to get her to start reliably. </P>
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<P>I will be as clear and detailed as I can. </P>
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<P>I purchased her a month ago and when bought she was gutless as anything but started on the button. The first thing I did was give the engine a good service, Oil, Oil filter, Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Fuel Sedimenter and valve clearances, which 80% cured the issue of gutlessness. </P>
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<P>About 2 weeks ago I got in her in the morning started her up no problem and drove 14 miles to the vets. When I went to come home again after approx 15 minutes she wouldn't start just kept turning over and over but no sign of catching. Popped the bonnet checked all the sensors where well connected and tried to start her again, nothing. Had a temper tantrum went and got a pasty and a coffee and when I came back she fired up as if nothing had been wrong. Until 2 days ago no problems. </P>
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<P>4 days ago got in first thing and she started fine and drove 5 miles before filling up with Diesel from the pump, no bio or veg here. Went to start her up and she turned over for ages then fired, like a diesel with no glowplugs, but that shouldn't have been an issue with a warm engine anyway. Carried on my journey of 25miles and had to do several short trips around town to visit different stores. Each time she was stopped she got progressively harder to start until she just wouldn't. Had to wait for 2 hours for breakdown recovery and when they got there they checked all the vital fluids stuck a jump pack on and she fired first piston over centre. At that I must say I was seething with rage. </P>
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<P>Drove home fine no problems at all. Next 2 days she was awkward to start when cold or hot but started in the end each time after lots of cranking and ran fine. Until the journey home yesterday. During that journey every so often the engine would sort of stall, then recover and be fine for another few minutes. No loss of power or smoke. Got home switched her off and went in. </P>
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<P>Today decided lets try and sort this problem and do some naughty stuff. I had a EGR deletion kit arrive so that went on. I also removed the inlet manifold and gave it a clean out to get rid of marmite like crap in the inlet. Started her up after and she was fine. Started fine twice more and then started being awkward again. So I then fitted a new battery, as the old one was half the size of a standard battery and changed the glow plugs. No improvement whatsoever. If anything it got worse. </P>
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<P>Now its at the point where it turns over and coughs but will not catch fully whatever. Turning the key whilst doing a octupus impression confirms the glow plug relay is clicking on and off with the light and the glow plugs are glowing as they should. When the ignition is on the injection pump is making a loud fast repeated clicking noise and on one cycle I heard a thunk noise from the vicinity and then it was prepared to start. </P>
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<P>I can see one other fault that I will rectify tomorrow but I think that the fuel cut off solonoid is being intermittent and I suspect immobiliser issues of which im at a loss of how to fix. I am a mechanic but don't normally work on diesels as my area of expertise is classic cars, and those that are diesels don't have all this ECU controlled stuff on them.</P>
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<P>So what do you reckon am I barking up the wrong tree.
I too have been having trouble trying to sort out starting problem on edc model tdi and having&nbsp;changed&nbsp;numerous new items with no luck last weekend I removed the top engine cover and unplugged the temp sensor only fitted to edc models and cut off the black sleeving protecting the wiring and found it snapped and touching together so I cut wiring back and you have to lengthen the wiring because it isn't long enough and then crimp 2 small spade connectors back on and make sure they are connected the correct way and insulated this has cured my starting problem.</P>
<P>if this temp sensor is faulty or as in my case the wiring when starting from cold it thinks it is warm and doesn't adjust the fueling to compensate for the cold start</P>
 
I had the same issue, no fuelling advance in cold weather. I cut back the loom and fitted a new plug on an extended loom. Old plug had crumbled and caused the two spades to touch.
 
Ah, that temperature sensor I will check on mine, yesterday I checked all the earths, its had everything bloody else done to it, glow plugs, lift pump, bleed pipes etc etc etc, it does 30mpg on a run and starts perfectly when warm.

So that may be the baby.

Had a google and found this.

http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=26316
 
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Is the sender that does dash engine temp gauge the same as the one that does the EDC. On the way home tonight my temp gauge breifly dropped to zero and then recovered again back to its normal position just below 1/2 on the gauge.

Will check the connector for a short when it stops raining. Ive a feeling its not going to be the same sender and the dash gauges funny 5 mins is just a coincidence.
 
Ok now getting desperate. She is still awkward to start and Im running out of ideas.

Compression test came back good.
Injectors have a good spray pattern and pop pressure.
No air coming into the fuel lines.
So I suspect a faulty injection pump.
 
When cold run the glow till the light goes out. Turn to start and she will crank for 20 to 30s splutter a bit every so often and then suddenly burst into life as if nothing was ever wrong revs pick up to 1000rpm as she starts and then fall back to a steady tickover.

It does not matter how many times I run the glowplugs. She is worse in cold and damp weather. Sometimes it will start after a few seconds of cranking other times you can crank away until the battery goes flat without firing. All the time she is coughing and trying to fire she gives clouds of unburnt diesel but once running no smoke at all no matter what you do.

If given easy start she will fire straight away. Im sure its fuel related but the supply is good and she is not drawing in air im starting to think I may have to change the injection pump.
 
sounds the same problem i had,

i bought a new battery, even though it would turn over for 20 or 30 sec's but not start, new battery and it starts first time every time
 
New battery already fitted it didn't make the blindest bit of difference.

As for the performance it seem to run okay but always feels like something is holding it back and is gutless on hills. Get it up to speed though and it will cruise fine at 70mph it just will not accelerate and loses speed on hills. A 16% gradient will see it down to 20mph and struggling.

Mpg is crap to be honest id have been better with a V8. Average 18mpg to 22mpg. Something is definatly not right though.

The engine does appear to be in good condition mechanically as it is showing nice healthy compression figures. Apart from being a bit tappy it makes no untoward noises when running.
 
research something called the hammer mod on the vp pump, its easier for you to read how to do it and why it works rather than me explain.

But it basically changes the IQ ever so slightly. This is done to compensate for different nozzles to make idle smoother and better mpg.

It may be worth trying this method just as an exercise to see if things improve, if they do then your pump solenoid is worn and most probably the plunger is also scored and worn.
 
Mine had the exact same fault, turned out to be a faulty number 4 injector, I found the fault by having a diagnostic check done
 
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New battery already fitted it didn't make the blindest bit of difference.

As for the performance it seem to run okay but always feels like something is holding it back and is gutless on hills. Get it up to speed though and it will cruise fine at 70mph it just will not accelerate and loses speed on hills. A 16% gradient will see it down to 20mph and struggling.

Mpg is crap to be honest id have been better with a V8. Average 18mpg to 22mpg. Something is definatly not right though.

The engine does appear to be in good condition mechanically as it is showing nice healthy compression figures. Apart from being a bit tappy it makes no untoward noises when running.
Low cranking speed will cause that kind of problem. Bad earth connections or a duff starter motor are possibles. Had the same problem on my tractor, turned out to be a bearing shot in the starter motor.
 

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