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Last weeks oil level
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This weeks oil level
Hard to compare I know
190 miles so early days. Doesn't seem to have gone down much to me. I'm not counting my chickens though
 
Well, I'm 800 miles in and not added any oil
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The oil is colouring up and so it's easier to see a clear level line.
By now I would have had to add over three quarters of a litre to keep the level in between the max min lines. :)
 
Well, I'm 800 miles in and not added any oil
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The oil is colouring up and so it's easier to see a clear level line.
By now I would have had to add over three quarters of a litre to keep the level in between the max min lines. :)

Glad you finally got this sorted.
It was painful reading the doubt you were starting to have in the work that you'd done.
For the first time ever, I gotta say I'm glad jamesmartin was wrong this time round and your honing is in good nick.
Now that you don't have to be mending anything on yours, I'll be dropping off my spare 200tdi with you for a rebuild as well:D
 
Glad you finally got this sorted.
It was painful reading the doubt you were starting to have in the work that you'd done.
For the first time ever, I gotta say I'm glad jamesmartin was wrong this time round and your honing is in good nick.
Now that you don't have to be mending anything on yours, I'll be dropping off my spare 200tdi with you for a rebuild as well:D
I believe everything he says, so it's a strange one to come to terms with :eek:
It's a shame you are so far away. I'm retiring in 8 weeks time, so may well have time to do it. I am working on alternative employment plans though :)
 
Glad you finally got this sorted.
It was painful reading the doubt you were starting to have in the work that you'd done.
For the first time ever, I gotta say I'm glad jamesmartin was wrong this time round and your honing is in good nick.
Now that you don't have to be mending anything on yours, I'll be dropping off my spare 200tdi with you for a rebuild as well:D
wrong? i said it would be turbo or honing:)
 
Hmmm, looking like it was the turbo oil return pipe. Does that count as the turbo ;) :p
yes turbo was source of oil useage ,fitting a return pipe with a kink is a daft error,only later revealed,and as i said turbo cartridge is rotationally adjustable,if the return pipe doesnt fit well theres something wrong:):)
 
yes turbo was source of oil useage ,fitting a return pipe with a kink is a daft error,only later revealed,and as i said turbo cartridge is rotationally adjustable,if the return pipe doesnt fit well theres something wrong:):)
Certainly was a daft error :eek: :rolleyes:
If it was a problem with the turbo cartridge position then it was faulty on all 3 turbos I've had on it since the rebuild. It does seem odd though as the problem started with my original 23 yr old return pipe.
 
Certainly was a daft error :eek: :rolleyes:
If it was a problem with the turbo cartridge position then it was faulty on all 3 turbos I've had on it since the rebuild. It does seem odd though as the problem started with my original 23 yr old return pipe.
well thats quite likely with a 300 as return is short,i cant say it is as i cant see the engine in front of me,there are a few reasons ie pattern poor return hoses,but with an original pipe and turbo in correct orientation it will fit if fitted correctly if it dosent youve done something wrong,whilst tighten the block end
 
well thats quite likely with a 300 as return is short,i cant say it is as i cant see the engine in front of me,there are a few reasons ie pattern poor return hoses,but with an original pipe and turbo in correct orientation it will fit if fitted correctly if it dosent youve done something wrong,whilst tighten the block end
What technique do you use to tighten the block end?
 
Well, as Micky Flanagan would say, I'm back in the game! :D
Landy has been off the road for about eight weeks due to rear brake pads needing to be replaced. Found LRDirect were still sending out essential parts, so I ordered two sets of rear pads and two sets of fronts, just to make the delivery more worth while. They delivered the fronts, but not the backs. While they were taking my order and sending out incomplete orders, they were not answering the phone or replying to emails :rolleyes: Mrs and I were largely working from home with the occasional visit in to work, so we didn't need it on the road. However, I eventually ordered some rear pads off ebay. They arrived very quickly and I fitted them a few days ago.
So........................ with the Landy back mobile it's time to turn my attention to the oil consumption again. This is also helped by the fact that I took early retirement starting three weeks ago :)
It's still burning oil, but not as much as before. Brief recap, I've had two recon turbos on and now on a new one I bought through Turners. I realised I'd been fitting the oil return pipe with a kink in it, so I'm suspecting this kink was causing a restriction in the oil flow which was forcing the high pressure oil through the seals on the turbo and in to the air induction system. I've now got a new oil return pipe and it's fitted without a kink. Still burning oil though, so I suspect that once oil has been forced through the seals in the turbo, it no longer returns to sealing properly. Even when the back pressure has been removed. Anyone know much about the seals in the turbo cartridge and can shine some light on this?
Months ago I bought a new oil thermostat, in the hope that the oil was overheating, getting thin and going through the seals. As an experiment, I think I'll try swapping the oil stat to see if that cures it. However, I've never read about anyone burning oil due to a stuck shut oil stat. You never know though :rolleyes:
Failing that I think my next move will have to be buying a new CHAR and making sure the return pipe is fitted without a kink!
Does this sound like a plan?
 
Well, as Micky Flanagan would say, I'm back in the game! :D
Landy has been off the road for about eight weeks due to rear brake pads needing to be replaced. Found LRDirect were still sending out essential parts, so I ordered two sets of rear pads and two sets of fronts, just to make the delivery more worth while. They delivered the fronts, but not the backs. While they were taking my order and sending out incomplete orders, they were not answering the phone or replying to emails :rolleyes: Mrs and I were largely working from home with the occasional visit in to work, so we didn't need it on the road. However, I eventually ordered some rear pads off ebay. They arrived very quickly and I fitted them a few days ago.
So........................ with the Landy back mobile it's time to turn my attention to the oil consumption again. This is also helped by the fact that I took early retirement starting three weeks ago :)
It's still burning oil, but not as much as before. Brief recap, I've had two recon turbos on and now on a new one I bought through Turners. I realised I'd been fitting the oil return pipe with a kink in it, so I'm suspecting this kink was causing a restriction in the oil flow which was forcing the high pressure oil through the seals on the turbo and in to the air induction system. I've now got a new oil return pipe and it's fitted without a kink. Still burning oil though, so I suspect that once oil has been forced through the seals in the turbo, it no longer returns to sealing properly. Even when the back pressure has been removed. Anyone know much about the seals in the turbo cartridge and can shine some light on this?
Months ago I bought a new oil thermostat, in the hope that the oil was overheating, getting thin and going through the seals. As an experiment, I think I'll try swapping the oil stat to see if that cures it. However, I've never read about anyone burning oil due to a stuck shut oil stat. You never know though :rolleyes:
Failing that I think my next move will have to be buying a new CHAR and making sure the return pipe is fitted without a kink!
Does this sound like a plan?
Good luck with the retirement, I have been doing it for 2 years now, never been so busy but I love it.
Not 100% sure on the seals I think they use a fine tolerance steel ring something like a piston ring, which has a very small gap between seal and shaft, so I dont think it would suffer too much from over pressure it would just leak.
But maybe a new cartridge could be the solution, and couldn't hurt if carefully installed.
Overheating the oil would of course make it thinner and more able to pass through the seal shaft gap, have you measured oil max temperature? Compared to design max.
 
Good luck with the retirement, I have been doing it for 2 years now, never been so busy but I love it.
Not 100% sure on the seals I think they use a fine tolerance steel ring something like a piston ring, which has a very small gap between seal and shaft, so I dont think it would suffer too much from over pressure it would just leak.
But maybe a new cartridge could be the solution, and couldn't hurt if carefully installed.
Overheating the oil would of course make it thinner and more able to pass through the seal shaft gap, have you measured oil max temperature? Compared to design max.
Ha ha, I'm only 3 weeks in to retirement and there isn't enough time in the day to do what I want to do. It's odd, the time flies by compared to being at work.
Yeah, I'm using the term 'seals' generically. I know they have some sort of piston ring type arrangement. I've got the last turbo in the garage, so I'll get around to taking the CHRA out and taking it apart to see how it's set up. I just can't understand how if I've cured the back pressure, so there's nothing pushing oil out through the seals, then why is the turbo still leaking oil out in to the intercooler? Might be the oil stat, or the seals haven't recovered? I don't know, hence the experimental approach :)
 
enjoy the retirement I’m looking forward to mine in about 9 months
For a quick test You could remove the oil stat
a) to test it
b) leave it out and run it with oil going through cooler from start , not sure it would make much difference as they run cool anyway , have you measured what flows come back out of turbo and back to sump as a test
I’m running mine as a Di so don’t really know how the turbo works but if boost pressure was lower would that reduce pressure of oil going through the seals
 
Ha ha, I'm only 3 weeks in to retirement and there isn't enough time in the day to do what I want to do. It's odd, the time flies by compared to being at work.
Yeah, I'm using the term 'seals' generically. I know they have some sort of piston ring type arrangement. I've got the last turbo in the garage, so I'll get around to taking the CHRA out and taking it apart to see how it's set up. I just can't understand how if I've cured the back pressure, so there's nothing pushing oil out through the seals, then why is the turbo still leaking oil out in to the intercooler? Might be the oil stat, or the seals haven't recovered? I don't know, hence the experimental approach :)
I like to work with people who follow a process of elimination, so many start with an answer and try to make the problem fit.
Just a thought but I worked with industrial turbo compressors for quite a few years, we used floating carbon seals, one thing to consider is that most of the time is the pressure differential between the air and the oil in the bearing.
When the waste gate opens then the air pressure falls quickly and this allows oil to pull through the seal, is your turbo set up correctly so that it is not hunting when it unload, I.e cycling the loading then dumping.
 
so that it is not hunting when it unload, I.e cycling the loading then dumping.
The turbo is a new Garrett one which I bought from Turned's. I presume it's set up correctly. That last bit I've quoted does not make sense to me. Sorry :oops:
 
enjoy the retirement I’m looking forward to mine in about 9 months
For a quick test You could remove the oil stat
a) to test it
b) leave it out and run it with oil going through cooler from start , not sure it would make much difference as they run cool anyway , have you measured what flows come back out of turbo and back to sump as a test
I’m running mine as a Di so don’t really know how the turbo works but if boost pressure was lower would that reduce pressure of oil going through the seals
Yeah, I'm not sure if it would make much difference swapping the stat out, unless it's stuck shut :confused:
Yes, I've had the outflow pipe feeding in to a 2 litre milk bottle. I don't think there is as much coming through compared to the first turbo. Not sure though, it's hard to remember as I'm going back about three years since the rebuild finished. When the pipe is just hanging in to a bottle there's defo no kink in the pipe and so the oil should just flood out. Now it's fastened up I can see there is no kink in it though.
 
The turbo is a new Garrett one which I bought from Turned's. I presume it's set up correctly. That last bit I've quoted does not make sense to me. Sorry :oops:
Sorry maybe I didn't put that very well, the boost pressure is controlled by opening up a gate or valve when boost is too high, this will allow the exhaust gasses to divert and reduce the flow through the turbo, this has the effect of reducing the power of the turbine and it slows down therefore the flow falls on the delivery side, if this is done smoothly then the pressure curve will just flatten out, if it too violent then the pressure will collapse and this would shut the exhaust bypass bringing the turbo up again rapidly.
The effect would be flow,and the pressure in the volut going up and down.
It's just a thought to investigate, because you seem to have followed so many other Avenues.
We sometimes saw compressors left unloaded for long periods would pull the oil through the carbon seals, when the seals became oily then the oil would burn in the small gap between the car and the shaft and it would become sticky.
 

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