If you look at picture 1 on post 1270 you can just make out the clamp. It effectively lifts the pipes up which may help with clearances?
Hmmm, if my pipe was lifted off the wing it would just add to the angle of the bend. Unless, the clamp pulled the pipe back and so opened the angle.
 
Sorry about the clamp description, was just working from memory:rolleyes: Think what JM may be meaning is are the pipes fitted to the cooler the correct way round (the one with the 90 degree metal pipe going to the top rad connection and the straight one to the bottom)?
 
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Sorry about the clamp description, was just working from memory:rolleyes: Think what JM may be meaning is are the pipes fitted to the cooler the correct way round (the one with the 90 degree metal pipe going to the top rad connection and the straight one to the bottom)?
Bloody English language! :D I fitted them the same way as the old ones came off, but I'll go and check. :)
 
Just looked at my receipt from Dec 2015 and I had PBP101130 for the upper and PBP500200R for the lower. Suspect the upper has been superceded by the number JM previously posted.
 
Just looked at my receipt from Dec 2015 and I had PBP101130 for the upper and PBP500200R for the lower. Suspect the upper has been superceded by the number JM previously posted.
This is the pipe arrangement in to the filter housing
oil pipes filter.jpg

Pretty sure they are the right way around.
This is the clamp
oil pipes clamp.jpg
 
This is the pipe arrangement in to the filter housing
View attachment 150401
Pretty sure they are the right way around.
This is the clamp
View attachment 150402
Filter area is the same as mine, looking at the other picture it looks like the pipes are the right way around at the radiator as the one with the longer straight bit is the top one. Must just be down to a different length pipe? Do you still have the old ones, could try measuring them with a bit of string to see if there is a difference.
 
Filter area is the same as mine, looking at the other picture it looks like the pipes are the right way around at the radiator as the one with the longer straight bit is the top one. Must just be down to a different length pipe? Do you still have the old ones, could try measuring them with a bit of string to see if there is a difference.
This is the old pipe.
oil pipe old.jpg

If you compare with the new pipe above, the new one has about 2.5" more straight pipe between the nut and the fitting on the end of the rubber pipe, compared to this old one. This extra solid pipe is pushing the hose up against the inner wing.
 
This is the old pipe.
View attachment 150439
If you compare with the new pipe above, the new one has about 2.5" more straight pipe between the nut and the fitting on the end of the rubber pipe, compared to this old one. This extra solid pipe is pushing the hose up against the inner wing.
Well looks like you have spotted a difference that could cause it. If you zoom in on picture 2 of my previous post it looks like mine has a similar length (or possibility a little bit shorter) to your new one.
 
Yeah, I noticed that before. I reckon yours is just about the same. But, yours doesn't look as though it touches the inner wing!
 
Having not used the Landy much for months, due to a sever feedback through the brake pedal issue, It's now ready to be driven as per before. So, my attention is now going to be back on to oil consumption. I think my paranoia with the oil cooler pipe has mostly subsided (for now anyway) After the engine rebuild I bought a boost gauge and oil pressure gauge to help me keep an eye on the engine. Boost gauge was straight forward, but stiil hadn't wired the light or fitted the oil pressure gauge. Done that now, but when I was fitting the oil sensor to the block I had the mrs running the engine with a few revs on so I could see if the connection was leaking. I was nearly smoked like a kipper as I lay underneath the engine :( I've taken the turbo hoses off to have a look. put the top hose on the radiator and very quickly oil began to trickle down and pool.
P1040134.JPG

This is the short bit of pipe that attaches immediately to the turbo
P1040135.JPG

I know a turbo passes oil and no one can say how much to expect. However, that does look excessive to me. Obviously, I'm hoping (maybe clutching at straws) that it is something else other than the honing.This is a replacement turbo for the initial refurbed one I put in. This one did make a massive difference to the performance of the Landy when the Turbo placed swapped the first one out. So, it's compressing better than the first one, but is still passing 'some' oil. Question is, is it enough to be my oil consumption cause? :( This one has been in just over a year. I might look in to changing the cartridge in it, though I'm not sure if this involves new seals? Or, can you just change the seals? More to learn!
 
Doesn't look too excessive to me - certainly wont give you the oil consumption you have. A new cartridge will have new seals, the seals that "go" are the control seals that keep the oil in the compressor/turbine shaft bearing. As far as I know taking a cartridge apart will then require the turbo being re-balanced, so best left to a remanufacturer.

Saw a clueless bloke have good fortune with a cordless drill and hone on youtube a while back if you do decide to have the head off in the end
 
Doesn't look too excessive to me - certainly wont give you the oil consumption you have.
Obviously, that's not what I'm wanting to hear. :( It looks like a lot to me :rolleyes:

A new cartridge will have new seals, the seals that "go" are the control seals that keep the oil in the compressor/turbine shaft bearing. As far as I know taking a cartridge apart will then require the turbo being re-balanced, so best left to a remanufacturer.
I've been googling and the replacement CHRA's come already balanced. Just watched this video and it looks fairly straightforward. (warning the music is a bit repetative)



Saw a clueless bloke have good fortune with a cordless drill and hone on youtube a while back if you do decide to have the head off in the end
You can tell I'm trying to avoid that! :) I'll have a look on Youtube for it. Was he burning oil? I haven't had the Landy back on the road long enough to do a volume of oil/mileage comparison yet, but going by the smoke the other day it must be the same or similar.
 
It looks like a lot to me :rolleyes:

Well, it's less than the mostly over 200k mile turbos I have exposure to haha

Aye changing a cartridge for a new one is easy, They're quite cheap from a lot of the UK re-builders as well as the 300tdi turbo is common

Was he burning oil?

Can't remember the cause but it was only on one cylinder and it did stop the thirst for oil
 
Mine's only done 10K though!

Well, another way of looking at it is only that much has collected after 10k, the inside of the pipe would be lagged with oil if it were serious, plus silicone hoses do tend to swell with severe oil exposure (which yours has not)

Someone who knows what the passings of a newish turbo should look like will be along sometime soon at any rate :)
 
Well, another way of looking at it is only that much has collected after 10k,
the inside of the pipe would be lagged with oil if it were serious, plus silicone hoses do tend to swell with severe oil exposure (which yours has not)
Your probably right.:( However, (clutching at straws) the oil is just blowing through and getting burned, so not much settling in the pipe at any one time!

Someone who knows what the passings of a newish turbo should look like will be along sometime soon at any rate :)
I've asked before. I think it's tricky to know how much is passing through, as I said above, it's possibly going through as a mist and getting burned. (Hopefully) :)
 
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