I think those bolts normally come with theadlock pre-applied, probably LRs way of making sue they are locked when they are replaced. I don't see any reason why you cant apply threadlock and reuse them as long as the guides don't have any movement when torqued up, I think it is the cone end of the bolt which retains the guide in place rather than the actual threaded portion of the bolt.
I've done a bit of googling. There's oils to run from 200miles, 500 miles, they claim to be essential in bedding in the engine to set it up for optimal performance etc. Could just be sales talk? eg LINKY
That's right, it's the cone that locates the guide. I could easily take them out and thread lock them in.
) the precise technical reason - but I think it's to do with the friction modifiers - which you don't want ...... yet....
Well I totally agree about contacting the oil people it would be very interesting to hear what they say, they know much more about the story than any of us.Whilst I agree that modern oils are amazingly superior to the old stuff - and the full synthetic is so cheap it's daft not to use it in my book - I wouldn't put "normal" oil in a rebuilt or new engine - I can't remember ( old age
Choose a proper oil manufacturer, and ring their technical people - I have great respect for the Castrol technical folk. I've found the more interesting the question, the better the help they give you.
A pal of mine built a gearbox, from scratch, ( cut all his own gears too ) for a railway locomotive - and he got in touch with Castrol, with all the technical info about shear forces on the gears etc., They could not have been more interested, or more helpful
When I used to build small racing 2 stroke engines I always used to break them in with plain old 2T oil at a slightly higher ratio. If I used my normal synthetic running oil (Honda HP2) it was almost too good and the piston/liners wouldn't bed in without a lot of running in so wouldn't achieve peak performance.
Hmmm, this is all very interesting. I too have read, in my Googling, that regular oil is too slippery. To err on the side of caution I will get some running in oil and swap it after the recommended time interval. Thanks gents, appreciate the contributions.
You know you are the one who has done all the hard work, and put your money into this, if it gives you more confidence then it can't be a bad thing, and the oil is designed especially for this situation.Hmmm, this is all very interesting. I too have read, in my Googling, that regular oil is too slippery. To err on the side of caution I will get some running in oil and swap it after the recommended time interval. Thanks gents, appreciate the contributions.
Cheers, raywin. I really appreciate your contribution, support and advice. I might as well use running in oil. If I used the usual oil I would be changing it after a limited number of miles anyway, so may as well use running in oil. I'll check out some reviews to see if any brand has a better reputation.
(with a hint of trepidation) It would be awesome if she purred like a kitten, but did a 300Tdi do that from new?
Fingers crossed that it sounds as sweet as a 300 can do.
Hadn't thought of a birthing video! I'll get the Mrs to do it, she's been at all the othersDon't forget to get someone to video the first start, its a bit like your first child being born (and hopefully a bit less messy)
Good thinking, neilly.
Cheers, Saint. Yes, I think neilly has hit the nail on the head there.
Cheers, mate. This is where a lack of experience has a big affect on planning a strategy. There's not a lot left to go on, I suppose. I'll leave the front end timing stuff until it's in.
