Cheers, James. So the hylomar you use just for holding the gaskets in place son they don't move when fitting.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
its a sealant too but yes the gasket does the sealing and if its to greasy it will split as you tighten the bolts
Magic. Cheers.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
let it dry in place before fitting 10 mins or so
I don't have any, James, so I'll have to improvise. If the Mrs is going to town today I'll get her to buy some.
I'm afraid you're all going to be disappointed with my progress today. My excuse is that I'm learning as I go along, being cautious and inexperience does narf slow you down.
Found a sign lying in the engine bay.
It'll be my two retired mates from down the street. It must have blown from the building site on the outskirts of the village Don't know about where you live, but they are building thousands of houses up here in Northumberland. Someone is making a lot of money, including local authority councillors I reckon! Northumberland hit there 2020 target for new homes about a year ago and they are still giving permission for more
Got the rear suspension springs changed on the Mrs C3 first thing.
Compared to the Landy springs they're like something you find in a pen
Tapped the oil pressure release valve spring cap off. The spring is a lot shorter than the new one. Every thread I've read on this the old spring is always a lot shorter, I hope we're all fitting the right replacements
The plunger was in good nick with no wear or scoring. Unfortunately, the picture is not in focus.
Assembly lubed it, slipped it back in, cleaned the screw with brake cleaner, fitted it altogether with some thread lock.
Degreased the new oil pump rotor and housing. Popped the new rotor in, filled it full of vaseline as recommended, ran a thin line of RTV around the outer edge.
Gently lay the cover plate on and then lifted it off, cos I was worried there was too much RTV on it. Cleaned the RTV that had stuck to the cover plate and refitted it, then did the same again. This time I was happy with the amount of RTV and that is wasn't going to get squeezed in to anywhere it shouldn't. So, put the plate on for a final time with a bit of thread lock.
Spent ages degreasing the threads of all the timing case bolts, running the threads through my finger nail/blue roll with brake cleaner. Takes a while to do each one and there's alot! Cleaned out all of the holes in the block too.
Tapped out the old and then tapped in new crank shaft and cam shaft seals
It was a bit of a hassle to get the oil rotor lined up with the crank flats and I wish I'd done that with the old seals in.
Anyway, once I'd done that I could push the casing on, the issue being the cam shaft going through the seal. Don't know what made me look behind the casing, but pleased I did. The spring had popped out of the seal and was just lying on the cam bearing surface. Took the casing off and put the spring back on the seal. Tried fitting it again and the spring popped out again. It's a bit of a faff on keeping the gasket in place anorl! Didn't get any blue hylomar, cos Mrs got to TMS at 12.29 and they'd switched the till comuters off!
Came up with this idea to feed the cam bearing face through the seal.
It's a bit of milk carton plastic.cut just shy of the full diameter and lightly lubed with engine oil.
Seemed to work a treat. Of course I had to take the housing off again to check the system worked It had worked so put it back using the milk carton feed system.
Hopefully, the spring stayed on the second time
Then just trimmed the crank cap seals off to the required 0.8mm
Treated the sump with Fortran the other week. Wire wheeled it down again, degreased it, wet it then another coat of Fertran. Will paint it tomorrow. I think I've got some black Rustoleum left? Hopefully!
That was it for today I did say you'd be disappointed.
Found a sign lying in the engine bay.
It'll be my two retired mates from down the street. It must have blown from the building site on the outskirts of the village
Don't know about where you live, but they are building thousands of houses up here in Northumberland. Someone is making a lot of money, including local authority councillors I reckon! Northumberland hit there 2020 target for new homes about a year ago and they are still giving permission for more Got the rear suspension springs changed on the Mrs C3 first thing.
Compared to the Landy springs they're like something you find in a pen
Tapped the oil pressure release valve spring cap off. The spring is a lot shorter than the new one. Every thread I've read on this the old spring is always a lot shorter, I hope we're all fitting the right replacements
The plunger was in good nick with no wear or scoring. Unfortunately, the picture is not in focus.
Assembly lubed it, slipped it back in, cleaned the screw with brake cleaner, fitted it altogether with some thread lock.
Degreased the new oil pump rotor and housing. Popped the new rotor in, filled it full of vaseline as recommended, ran a thin line of RTV around the outer edge.
Gently lay the cover plate on and then lifted it off, cos I was worried there was too much RTV on it. Cleaned the RTV that had stuck to the cover plate and refitted it, then did the same again. This time I was happy with the amount of RTV and that is wasn't going to get squeezed in to anywhere it shouldn't. So, put the plate on for a final time with a bit of thread lock.
Spent ages degreasing the threads of all the timing case bolts, running the threads through my finger nail/blue roll with brake cleaner. Takes a while to do each one and there's alot! Cleaned out all of the holes in the block too.
Tapped out the old and then tapped in new crank shaft and cam shaft seals
It was a bit of a hassle to get the oil rotor lined up with the crank flats and I wish I'd done that with the old seals in.
Anyway, once I'd done that I could push the casing on, the issue being the cam shaft going through the seal. Don't know what made me look behind the casing, but pleased I did. The spring had popped out of the seal and was just lying on the cam bearing surface.
Took the casing off and put the spring back on the seal. Tried fitting it again and the spring popped out again. It's a bit of a faff on keeping the gasket in place anorl! Didn't get any blue hylomar, cos Mrs got to TMS at 12.29 and they'd switched the till comuters off! Came up with this idea to feed the cam bearing face through the seal.
It's a bit of milk carton plastic.cut just shy of the full diameter and lightly lubed with engine oil.
Seemed to work a treat. Of course I had to take the housing off again to check the system worked
It had worked so put it back using the milk carton feed system.Hopefully, the spring stayed on the second time
Then just trimmed the crank cap seals off to the required 0.8mm
Treated the sump with Fortran the other week. Wire wheeled it down again, degreased it, wet it then another coat of Fertran. Will paint it tomorrow. I think I've got some black Rustoleum left? Hopefully!
That was it for today
I did say you'd be disappointed.Attachments
One of these is for the servo vacuum pump the other for the baffle plate.
Same size and hole configuration, but look like they are made of different materials. Obviously a different colour! The green one is waxy and the black one is dry. Any idea which one goes where? I think these gasket kits should have an itemised list for the numpty user.
Same size and hole configuration, but look like they are made of different materials. Obviously a different colour!
The green one is waxy and the black one is dry. Any idea which one goes where? I think these gasket kits should have an itemised list for the numpty user. 
Magicgrotto
Well-Known Member
By the time you've finished Al you wont need to go back to work ! Because you'l have loads of 300tdi eng's to re build !
Cheers, Saint.
I've not got one of those timing kits. Toying with the idea of doing it cheap with a 9mm drill bit, but as per usual will probably end up paying out.
I presme you would recommend a timing kit? This has also got me sat here thinking about the flywheel fitting. It must have to be at the right orientation to the crank/pistons, because the timing kits have that screw pin that goes through the bell housing in to a notch in the flywheel?
I'm already back to work, mate. Just had some time off when No1 son was back from UniBy the time you've finished Al you wont need to go back to work ! Because you'l have loads of 300tdi eng's to re build !
Ha, ha, would you trust me to rebuild yours?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
flywheel is located by a dowel, 9mm drill bit is fine and if you have an 8.5 and 8mm etc you can set timing to its optimumCheers, Saint.
I've not got one of those timing kits. Toying with the idea of doing it cheap with a 9mm drill bit, but as per usual will probably end up paying out.
This has also got me sat here thinking about the flywheel fitting. It must have to be at the right orientation to the crank/pistons, because the timing kits have that screw pin that goes through the bell housing in to a notch in the flywheel?
Magicgrotto
Well-Known Member
If & WHEN I'm not capable Al then yes I'd let you !Ha, ha, would you trust me to rebuild yours?
I'd trust you to re-build mine!
As for the timing kit, mine was from Ebay if I remember correctly.....I paid certainly no more than £15-20 for it from memory - it was a while ago.
As JM says, just a drill of the required size is required....although the ability to lock the flywheel at TDC is a big bonus.
As for the timing kit, mine was from Ebay if I remember correctly.....I paid certainly no more than £15-20 for it from memory - it was a while ago.
As JM says, just a drill of the required size is required....although the ability to lock the flywheel at TDC is a big bonus.
Ah, yes.
Forgot about that dowel sticking out the flange the flywheel bolts to. Don't know how cos it just misses the engine stand, so I've been keeping an eye on it. I'll put that down to my age Cheers, JM. Did that oil rotor full of vaseline fit the bill
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
you are doing a cracking jobAh, yes.
Cheers, JM. Did that oil rotor full of vaseline fit the bill
Hear, Hear.......you doing a cracking job
Thought you were already passed it you aulde gitIf & WHEN I'm not capable Al then yes I'd let you !
You're a brave man, I think I've said that before
I might have a look on ebay if they are that cheap.
Magicgrotto
Well-Known Member
I HATE CHEEEEEEKY KIDS !
you are doing a cracking job
That's much appreciated gents. A bit too kind kind though. It's amazing what technology can do for you these days. 20 years ago I would have had to serve my time as a motor mechanic to be able to do this. These days I can just ask you chaps
