Speckydude
Well-Known Member
Agree 1000%, even starting with Autosol polish on scratches you cannot click with your nail.
raywin
Well-Known Member
Absolutely right, every job like this brings highs and lows, don't be intimidated by it just break it down then take a bite at a time, you are going to feel like a king when it fires up and runs, and remember you will know every bit that's been done to it, and how it was done, no wondering if the garage did it right or did they cut any corners.
I haven't got the bottle to start interfering with the crank, so I'll leave it as is. A man should know his limitations, which is why I probably should not have started this job in the first place.
When you (me anyway) start these things you don't think about polishing crank journals to ensure carbon molecules are lapped over in the correct orientation relative to the rotation of the engine I have no way of doing that or checking it. I'm staying away from messing with the crank journals. Thanks for the info though gents.
Speckydude
Well-Known Member
I'm a big believer in the finger nail test. The picture of number 4 journal looks a bit rough to my eyes, but it could be the light or any number of artifacts. If you polish the journals, and the "marks" disappear, then I would say its good to go back in without further expense.
I think I would also clean the rear seal land with some scotchbrite, and then polish that too - it just looks like it needs a good clean...
I think I would also clean the rear seal land with some scotchbrite, and then polish that too - it just looks like it needs a good clean...
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Well, I can polish them with a bit of autosol and a cloth
I'll give them all a polish Cheers, Saint.V8 I think they look ok too. (That's two untrained eyes
) or is it four Just got the head and block back from the machine shop.
The valves are lapped in and drop on to the seats with a satisfying plop sound.
It's all very shiny now.
Bores look good. They tried 020 first, but still marks on No1. Very close though apparently. They had to take it to 040.
The hot wash and degrease must have worked cos it's starting to rust already.
I asked them if they had an old bearing the same diameter as the camshaft bearings, so I could use it as a drift. (looking for a bit of sympathy) He got his bearing extraction set and sure enough he didn't have one big enough. Surely they must work on engines as big, or bigger, than the 300Tdi? Anyway, he measured the ID and OD of the bearing shell with a vernier and found a socket the right size. He tapped out the first bearing (timing belt end). He advised leaving the rest saying they looked in good condition. So, I've a bit of a dilemma there. He did have to hit the socket quite hard to get the bearing out, so the internal ones will be tough to do.
Ordered more parts from Turner Engineering this morning and it's coming tomorrow. I must say they have been excellent. The machine workshop were shocked at how much I was getting the KolbenSchmidt pistons for, said Turners must be selling them at a loss or were getting an amazing deal on them somehow?
As JM said in an earlier post, leave the other cam bearings if they look OK..just replace the front one as this is the one that bears the load of the belt/pulley arrangement.
It may help to freeze the new front bearing in the freezer for a day or so, so it will contract, and if you can get the block warmed to help it expand...then with some gentle tapping you should be able to get the new one in square before the bearings warms and the block cools.
Head looks lovely, and the honing hatches look even and at a good angle too.....
It may help to freeze the new front bearing in the freezer for a day or so, so it will contract, and if you can get the block warmed to help it expand...then with some gentle tapping you should be able to get the new one in square before the bearings warms and the block cools.
Head looks lovely, and the honing hatches look even and at a good angle too.....
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
this is what i mean about crank polishing
That's a cracking idea. The parts arrive tomorrow, so I'll put the bearing straight in the freezer. Every little helps.
Got a lot more cleaning and painting to do then I can consider reassembly. New timing kit, clutch kit and injectors are on their way.
Are you going for the thickest, zero hole, gasket just to be sure or are you going to measure piston protrusion and select the correct hole gasket from that?That's a cracking idea. The parts arrive tomorrow, so I'll put the bearing straight in the freezer. Every little helps.
Got a lot more cleaning and painting to do then I can consider reassembly. New timing kit, clutch kit and injectors are on their way.
Interesting. I wonder if they are just cloth strops he's using or something abrasive.
Looking at these websites below put me off initially. I can easily polish them with some autosol and a cloth though. They are all pretty shiny anyway, but a polish can't hurt.
It was a 2 hole that was on. The head only had a very light skim, so I've ordered a 3 hole one. I could call the workshop in the morning and ask them the exact amount he took off. When I dropped it off yesterday and we were looking at it he said it probably wouldn't need it, but while it was off it was worth a light skim so I went for it. From what I've read each hole in the gasket is an extra 0.1mm. I should have checked what he took off, but I could call tomorrow.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
400 grit emery type tape
I'll not be taking emery tape to it, James
Have you had a chance to look at the pictures?
But, you'll also be fitting new bearing shells which will be a tiny tad larger thatn the older slightly worn ones, this will add to the height of the piston at TDC......albeit a tiny amount, but considering the pistons run very close to the head, I'd want to check it...but again @jamesmartin is much more knowledgable than I......
I've bought a DTI (It's in the post anyway) so I could have a go at measuring the piston heights. I'll call the machine shop tomorrow and if he's only taken off a couple of thou I should be ok. If there's any doubt I'll buy a no hole. Which I should have done
