raywin said:
Quite honestly I don't want to run them down when I haven't even held them, but in my experience the M and W ones would be a better investment if you bought them at the same price, I have used cheap ones and they were prety poor I have a set I had given but they are prety low quality and I use the old favorites
Click to expand...
To be honest, the time of the auction was putting me off. Still nearly 5 days to go. I could take the crank to the machine shop and get them to check it. They'll probably want to regrind it whatever the measurement. I only took my block in this morning and they were re-boring it this afternoon. I got the impression they needed the work. I wonder how much a crank regrind is?
 
Al2O3 said:
To be honest, the time of the auction was putting me off. Still nearly 5 days to go. I could take the crank to the machine shop and get them to check it. They'll probably want to regrind it whatever the measurement. I only took my block in this morning and they were re-boring it this afternoon. I got the impression they needed the work. I wonder how much a crank regrind is?
Click to expand...
dont go for a regrind unless necessary
 
If you were going to take it for measurement , then make sure you know beforehand what the correct dimension should be and also what the tolerances are. Plus what the next size would be if it was going to be ground.

Cheers
 
jamesmartin said:
dont go for a regrind unless necessary
Click to expand...

neilly said:
If you were going to take it for measurement , then make sure you know beforehand what the correct dimension should be and also what the tolerances are. Plus what the next size would be if it was going to be ground.

Cheers
Click to expand...
It's a bit of a minefield, isn't it.
I'll take some pictures tomorrow and you fellas can tell me what you think. I'll then have a decision to make.
 
It's hilarious isn't it. Like the re-chassis and body rebuild, you probably wouldn't do it if you really knew what was involved. :D But then once you've done it, it doesn't seem so bad. I'm currently going through the pain of uncertainty in doing this for the first time. The first time means lots to worry about, such as missing out key jobs, mounting expense, time pressures and so on.
 
neilly said:
Must say one of my pet peeves is people who call a digital caliper a vernier caliper.......:confused::confused:. Even have trained people calling them it nowadays.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Mine too. :confused::eek: It can very frustrating :mad: when you have interpret what some so called professional :rolleyes: has said, before you can consider their opinion. Though I find that if they can't be bothered to speak English, often the best thing is to stay out their drama :rolleyes:.

Slap with a very large, very wet fish is in order IMHO. :D
 
Al2O3 said:
It's hilarious isn't it. Like the re-chassis and body rebuild, you probably wouldn't do it if you really knew what was involved. :D But then once you've done it, it doesn't seem so bad. I'm currently going through the pain of uncertainty in doing this for the first time. The first time means lots to worry about, such as missing out key jobs, mounting expense, time pressures and so on.
Click to expand...

The time pressure thing is one I can very much relate too. I took some time out to do a load of welding to SWMBO's D1, and it was hard to do an unknown size job, within a specified time. I pulled a few all nighters to get it done for its MOT, but I did it, An engine rebuild is harder in some ways, but the knowledge on this forum is immense, and the help is freely given, and it restores some of my faith in humanity that this is the case. A significant advantage is, of course that the LR manuals are also freely available. With hindsight, I'd rather do an engine rebuild - Oh, crap, :eek: what have I said!!:D. Keep at it - and post some piccies up of your journals.....

I'm hoping that the new metal I've fitted will last at least as long as LR's original - which will mean that its good for another 20 years!! I doubt this is possible with anything but the earlier LR's .....

I'd also like to reinforce what folk have said above regarding measurement. IME, a second hand M&W micrometer, properly set up will last longer than any of us, and be significantly more accurate, and repeatably so than any electronic "device", chinese or otherwise. This is not to say that the digital caliper does not have its place, it's just that they are limited - and the batteries can go flat too - not an issue which afflicts any micrometer !!. ( as you might expect this limitation is is in inverse proportion to the price )

I was out on site yesterday, measuring some pipework up - and I took my cheap (Aldi !) digital calipers to do the job - simply because 1) at £7, it doesn't matter if they get trashed, and 2) I was measuring raw material - not a machined finish. I would be mortified if my fathers M&W's got trashed - plus I don't want the job of replacing them with anything - they have been looked after for a lot of years - and I intend to pass them down too.

:)
 
Well I just went into my instrument case, I have a 1" to 2" and a 2" to 3" old but good working order + a 0 to 25mm and a good quality digital DTI as I said you are welcome to borrow them, I can appreciate that you must be hitting all kinds of expense at this time and any saving might be be welcome.
 
P1190294.JPG

P1190295.JPG

P1190296.JPG

The journals look good to me. No scratches, polishing or other marks. Some of the shells show a bit of polishing towards the outer edges, I can't think that is too serious though? This opinion is from a no experience point of view! :rolleyes: Any thoughts chaps?

Called the workshop and the machining is done. The bore took 040 to clean up. That was No1 where the rings had snapped. Those rings are a mystery.
They've still got to go through the cleaner, so picking them up this afternoon.
 
Well I don't have the experience of JM on diesel cranks but I would say there is nothing radical going on there, shells look good and the journals seem to have no breaks in the Babbitt, and very little scratching or grooving on them, Main bearing journal in the first picture seems to have a little mark about 1/3 of the way in from the right directly below the horizontal center ( just to the right of the little white dot) but not bad
I would agree with JM that a bit of a polish would benefit given the time money and effort you are putting into the rebuild.
 
raywin said:
Well I don't have the experience of JM on diesel cranks but I would say there is nothing radical going on there, shells look good and the journals seem to have no breaks in the Babbitt, and very little scratching or grooving on them, Main bearing journal in the first picture seems to have a little mark about 1/3 of the way in from the right directly below the horizontal center ( just to the right of the little white dot) but not bad
I would agree with JM that a bit of a polish would benefit given the time money and effort you are putting into the rebuild.
Click to expand...
Cheers, raywin. I've no experience to compare it with, but as you say, there doesn't seem to be any obvious damage or visual issues. Any idea what you polish the journals with?
 
Its something I have only done a couple of times and I used extremely fine emery cloth with plenty oil, I have polished turbo compressor pinions like this and then finish with Solvol Autosol, brings them up to a high shine.
Need to remember to keep the emery to a minimum, and be sure to get rid of all traces of any substance used by washing in solvent and blowing after.
 
Speckydude said:
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/199...nals-on-the-crankshaft-are-properly-polished/

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2005/01/crank-and-cam-polishing-are-you-smooth-enough/
Click to expand...

raywin said:
Its something I have only done a couple of times and I used extremely fine emery cloth with plenty oil, I have polished turbo compressor pinions like this and then finish with Solvol Autosol, brings them up to a high shine.
Need to remember to keep the emery to a minimum, and be sure to get rid of all traces of any substance used by washing in solvent and blowing after.
Click to expand...

:eek: I should never have started this job!
 
Al2O3 said:
:eek: I should never have started this job!
Click to expand...

Just think of the satisfaction, I am sure you thought the same during the rebuild...

One thing is not to let any frustration affect the workmanship, if you get pee'd off walk away and have a cuppa, it would be easy to damage something or go to far while polishing if you get frustrated with it.

Cheers
 
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