jedi
Well-Known Member
Turn out to be the reluctor ring FL. It was very thin compared to the new on and had snapped, or I could have snapped it trying to dig out the abs sensor which I had to replace too...I bought an i930 but it would not connect property to my 2001 hippo so it went back...had to find the fault by connecting up the abs sensor to a multimeter in ac volts mode and driving around the block...a good one should read 1 to 3 volts ac depending how fast you drive..
Then just to top the ball ache of a job off one of my wheels studs snapped off with not much force...now I'm paranoid about the other 4...
Those front wheels must have been on and off more times than I've had hot dinners in the hippos life...since I had the car I can't remember how many times I've removed them for various problems etc...still abs now OK. Just the stud to do.
Then just to top the ball ache of a job off one of my wheels studs snapped off with not much force...now I'm paranoid about the other 4...
Those front wheels must have been on and off more times than I've had hot dinners in the hippos life...since I had the car I can't remember how many times I've removed them for various problems etc...still abs now OK. Just the stud to do.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Were the threads greased?
Or 115 Nm in new money.
I don't generally use a torque wrench except for torque critical fixings like wheel nuts.
jedi
Well-Known Member
They were greased, think I will use a torque wrench in future...I just hand tightened them with the stock Freelander wheel brace..The old nuts did look slightly thinner where they snapped..It felt like they just kept on stretching until the went....the new ones give a firm bite and stop abruptly when tight.
I'll try n get some pics up of em.
I'll try n get some pics up of em.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Fit the nuts to dry threads. Greasing threads is an easy way to over tighten nuts, which can cause stud failure.
Evertonian
Member
Hi, realise this thread is a little old, but today I noticed that the 3 amigos lit up on my FL1 TD4. No idea as to what the problem is, but the vehicle hasn't moved for a couple of weeks as I am doing some work to the window regulators and locks. However, just before I parked the FL I noted that the handbrake was sticking on and no matter how much I pulled the handle back and forth it would not release. Would it be possible that the sticking handbrake is making the TC, ABS and HDC lights illuminate?
Any suggestions would be gratefully received.
John.
Any suggestions would be gratefully received.
John.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Unlikely. A sticking HB is normally the rear drum assembly in need of a good clean, re-lube and assembly, then adjustment.
The only real way to tell what's giving the three amigos, is with code read, but you can tests the pre-2002 sensors with a simple digital multimeter on resistance, where you should see about 1K ohms.
If it's after 2002 and has blue ABS sensor plugs, then a code read is needed.
Evertonian
Member
Thanks, didn't really think that it would cause the fault codes, but as they only appeared when I turned the LR round to do work on the vehicle it seemed strange. I did have a problem with a low battery and needed to jump start the engine before turning it round, perhaps I dislodged a wire somewhere under the engine cover when looking for an earthing point on the block? Is the ABS sensor control boxanywhere near the rear of the battery?
I'll have to check the colour of the sensors when I return home next weekend, but the vehicle was first registered Jan 2002, which I have always found difficult to determine whether it is pre 2002 or post 2002! However, VIN is 2A, so it would appear it is post 2002.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Jump starting or trying to start the engine with a very low battery can do strange things to electronic modules, sometimes causing spurious codes to be logged. For instance my project 1.8 Freelander puts the MIL on, and reports a failed cam sensor when the codes are read, if I tried to start it with a low battery! I know this is a spurious code as this engine won't actually start if the cam sensor is faulty, so it's just a random code, caused by the low battery voltage on cranking.
I'd read the codes, then clear them, and see if they return, once the battery is charged.
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Evertonian
Member
Jump starting or trying to start the engine with a very low battery can do strange things to electronic modules, sometimes causing spurious codes to be logged. For instance my project 1.8 Freelander puts the MIL on, and reports a failed cam sensor when the codes are read, if I tried to start it with a low battery! I know this is a spurious code as this engine won't actually start if the cam sensor is faulty, so it's just a random code, caused by the low battery voltage on cranking.
I'd read the codes, then clear them, and see if they return, once the battery is charged.
Not sure how I will read codes as I don't have appropriate equipment. If I disconnect the battery to fully charge it, would this clear the codes - I heard it would reset everything and also lock the Stereo requiring input of code. Alternatively, do you know of any resonably priced code readers that will do the job?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
You can get most garages to read the codes for a few £.
Disconnecting the battery might stop the radio working until the code is entered (this is radio dependent), as not all need a code. If you don't have the radio code, or don't know if one is needed, then it's advisable not disconnect the battery.
Nothing else is cleared by removing the battery, as all codes are stored in non volatile (permanent) memory.
There's a simple code reader available which reads most modules (engine, ABS and airbags) on the FL1 made after 2001 called the Icarsoft I930. It works OK, although it doesn't read the automatic transmission module (TCM).
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Evertonian
Member
Thanks for the invaluable info Nodge68. Radio will require code, but I have that so not a problem.
Just bought a new ICanSoft I930 for £65 off Ebay, so at least I will be able to clear the codes initially and see if they return. Not sure whether it will diagnose any potential faults for the 3 Amigos, but just have to wait and see. Auto transmission isn't a problem as my TD4 is manual.
Appreciate your time and patience on this topic and am very grateful for your advice.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That's not a bad price. There are more sophisticated code reader's, but the I930 is plug n play.
It'll tell you what's causing those.
No problem.
Freelander1-2001-2.5V6
Member
Hi Guys,
I have a 2001 freelander KV6. I have the 3 amigos and looking for some help to fix it.
I took it to local garage to get the codes read and here (Attached) is what I got.
As someone mentioned on this thread, I also hear a tinkling sound (like a metal strip scraping against a syrface) from the front right wheel. Its starts around 50km/hr. Its not constant, comes and goes with a random pattern.
I live in Karachi where freelanders are scarce so not much experience here at the local garages. Parts would also need to be imported.
Would appreciate some guidance on how to get a firm diagnosis and how to fix.
I have a 2001 freelander KV6. I have the 3 amigos and looking for some help to fix it.
I took it to local garage to get the codes read and here (Attached) is what I got.
As someone mentioned on this thread, I also hear a tinkling sound (like a metal strip scraping against a syrface) from the front right wheel. Its starts around 50km/hr. Its not constant, comes and goes with a random pattern.
I live in Karachi where freelanders are scarce so not much experience here at the local garages. Parts would also need to be imported.
Would appreciate some guidance on how to get a firm diagnosis and how to fix.
Attachments
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Have you looked to see if the ABS rings are intact?
