02Disco2 · Dec 22, 2020

evening all,

after running fine for months and shelling out a fortune (relatively!) on new steering knuckle joints for both sides my wonderful D2 has thrown up the 3 Amigo's along with the red handbrake/brake light.

I've cleared the intermittent "rear left output valve" fault with the nanocom and this clears them until the next ignition cycle when they all come back on. I now get "rear left output valve short to internal supply - 07-08"
(images from Nanocom attached)

and I'm stuck! I'm not great with the electrics side of things so while I've read through a number of articles I'm not 100% sure or confident on what I need to do to test.

I've checked handbrake switch (its not that, thats working) and also fluid level in the brake res., that's ok too. brakes were re-bled with new brake lines about a month ago and no issues since then.

I've replaced both of the front hubs but not rears (yet) so I'm unsure if this is worth doing before I go down the route of trying to find a s/h ABS module.

Has anyone else had similar issues or can anyone offer advice, please?! I'm fairly handy with most things on the D2 but fall apart on the electrics side....

any help gratefully received ahead of trying to find a decent garage locally (proving a challenge in the Winchester, Hampshire area)!

thanks and Happy Christmas all
Si

Badger688 · Dec 22, 2020

I had similar early last year! After I sorted out 3 Amigos (with the cheat!!) But mine came back after fixing the front hubs!! And had to change the front ABS sensor (drivers side!!) Then put it all back together!! So was not as bad as I thought! Just a pain in the bum getting to and changing the sensor?? (I.e. removing Hubs!!

Not sure if that helps!!

02Disco2 · Dec 22, 2020

Badger688 said:
I had similar early last year! After I sorted out 3 Amigos (with the cheat!!) But mine came back after fixing the front hubs!! And had to change the front ABS sensor (drivers side!!) Then put it all back together!! So was not as bad as I thought! Just a pain in the bum getting to and changing the sensor?? (I.e. removing Hubs!!

Not sure if that helps!!

Thanks @Badger688 - I think changing the rear hubs is worth a shot. It did the job (although different code) on the fronts. Just odd that the handbrake light is also on with this issue - makes it seem more urgent when driving when the red light is on!!

Badger688 · Dec 22, 2020

Sorry, should have said!! Yes my brake light was also on! Went off when changed sensor! Did clear all the codes when all put together and drove for test for more codes!!! No more electrical gremlins so far, year +, however! Still love hate relationship with her! Just failed Mot today! But left in garage for them to do a spot of "Welding" in the morning then re-test

02Disco2 · Dec 22, 2020

Badger688 said:
Sorry, should have said!! Yes my brake light was also on! Went off when changed sensor! Did clear all the codes when all put together and drove for test for more codes!!! No more electrical gremlins so far, year +, however! Still love hate relationship with her! Just failed Mot today! But left in garage for them to do a spot of "Welding" in the morning then re-test

Ah ok, that makes me feel slightly better!
Oh no, bad news on the mot, fingers crossed it gets through ok after the welding!!

Badger688 · Dec 22, 2020

I see your in the same county as myself??

02Disco2 · Dec 22, 2020

Badger688 said:
I see your in the same county as myself??

Why yes! Didn’t spot that. I’m south Hampshire, near Winchester

Badger688 · Dec 22, 2020

Borden

Working in Portsmouth ish

stpaulinus · Dec 22, 2020

02Disco2 said:
Ah ok, that makes me feel slightly better!
Oh no, bad news on the mot, fingers crossed it gets through ok after the welding!!

The regulations say it must pass if it does not go out of the testing station. The fail part is only inspected.

Badger688 · Dec 22, 2020

stpaulinus said:
The regulations say it must pass if it does not go out of the testing station. The fail part is only inspected.

She will come out of the testing station! And Roll into garage that will do the welding

so not bad arrangement (friend will do the welding on her! As my friend has my Mig Weld! That i train with at the garage)

NPG · Dec 22, 2020

There's a good list of diag codes here - https://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/discovery-ii-abs-codes

Search for the fault description equivalent to Nanocom's and click on the link to view the troubleshooting procedure. In your case, you're probably looking at these 2 items -

https://www.rswsolutions.com/index....es/108-077rear-left-out-valve-short-to-supply
https://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/discovery-ii-abs-codes/80-037rear-left-out-valve-open-circuit

You will need a multimeter and RAVE's electrical library for the connector pinouts.

02Disco2 · Dec 22, 2020

NPG said:
There's a good list of diag codes here - https://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/discovery-ii-abs-codes

Search for the fault description equivalent to Nanocom's and click on the link to view the troubleshooting procedure. In your case, you're probably looking at these 2 items -

https://www.rswsolutions.com/index....es/108-077rear-left-out-valve-short-to-supply
https://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/discovery-ii-abs-codes/80-037rear-left-out-valve-open-circuit

You will need a multimeter and RAVE's electrical library for the connector pinouts.

thank you @NPG I’ll take a look and try to get my head around the electrical bits!!

westone · Dec 22, 2020

I had the same 3 amigos come up on my Disco,if I turned the engine off and restarted they went.

with Nanocom I had same fault codes as you.

I cleared them all.

A friend said try running a hose over the rear hub for 5 mins,it often gets rid of debris in the hub and often works he said.

I did not think it would work and had just bought a load of parts including 2 new rear sensors.

Went out for a trip and all lights had gone ,scanned with Nanocom and it said no faults.

I do not do off road and wash Disco a lot.

I do not know why it worked, but clever people on here may.

02Disco2 · Dec 23, 2020

westone said:
I had the same 3 amigos come up on my Disco,if I turned the engine off and restarted they went.

with Nanocom I had same fault codes as you.

I cleared them all.

A friend said try running a hose over the rear hub for 5 mins,it often gets rid of debris in the hub and often works he said.

I did not think it would work and had just bought a load of parts including 2 new rear sensors.

Went out for a trip and all lights had gone ,scanned with Nanocom and it said no faults.

I do not do off road and wash Disco a lot.

I do not know why it worked, but clever people on here may.

I’ll take the wheel off today and clean everything as it’s worth a go but not sure I’ll have much joy as the lights don’t go off after restart, they’re on permanently now despite clearing the codes with Nanocom which doesn’t look good!

I’ve got a multimeter and lots of electrical diagrams, just no ****ing idea what or how to text properly!

02Disco2 · Dec 23, 2020

Update - no further!
Replaced the SVS (not modded) as I had one in the garage - no difference.
Checked resistance between pin 10 (RROV) and pin 5 (RLOV which is throwing the codes) and they are both the same. Check ground connection too and that’s ok.
#stumped!

back to “rear left output valve open circuit” again

Q - is the shuttle valve mod worth trying?
Q - what next?!

sierrafery · Dec 23, 2020

The SVS mod has nothing to do with the OV circuit, as long as that's the reocurring code you have to check that very circuit with multimeter starting from the modulator's C0501-5 and if you get open circuit against earth there you need to change the modulator and if it's OK there you have to check from ECU C0507-7 based on the connector views but this was clearely explained by @NPG in post #11 , normally with that code you'll not get any activity if you make a circuit test with nanocom(SLABS - Outputs) for RLOV, if you get clicks compare the sound with other valves cos they all should be the same

02Disco2 · Dec 23, 2020

sierrafery said:
The SVS mod has nothing to do with the OV circuit, as long as that's the reocurring code you have to check that very circuit with multimeter starting from the modulator's C0501-5 and if you get open circuit against earth there you need to change the modulator and if it's OK there you have to check from ECU C0507-7 based on the connector views but this was clearely explained by @NPG in post #11 , normally with that code you'll not get any activity if you make a circuit test with nanocom(SLABS - Outputs) for RLOV, if you get clicks compare the sound with other valves cos they all should be the same

Thanks @sierrafery - will try the nanocom test and also track back from ecu.
I’m not great with multimeter but did check pin 5 vs pin 10 and they gave the same reading - I’m fearing a new modulator so scouring eBay!

02Disco2 · Dec 23, 2020

Haven’t tested continuity fully yet (too wet!) but nanocom test on RL outlet sounds the same as RR and also tested abs on both rears and “sound” ok. Will keep checking!

sierrafery · Dec 23, 2020

If they both sound the same with nanocom no need for other test now, if you clear that code does it come back right away ?

02Disco2 · Dec 23, 2020

sierrafery said:
If they both sound the same with nanocom no need for other test now, if you clear that code does it come back right away ?

@sierrafery yes, as soon as I turn the ignition on. I get the ABS and handbrake light illuminated for a second then the other 2 come on - that’s on 2nd stage ignition and no change on engine start or after driving around a bit

Well-Known Member

Attachments

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Attachments

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Similar threads