sierrafery
Well-Known Member
And the same code is stored again or it doesnt even clear ?
02Disco2
Well-Known Member
It clears then is logged again. Clearing it does appear to work on the nanocom screen as it then shows no faults until I restart
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
So if the resistance and circuit test with nanocom works on that OV the same like the other dont rush to spend money on a modulator, you'll have to double check the fault code with hawkeye or other compatible tool cos i've seen cases when nanocom reported false codes in relation with the SLABS ECU but if the code is the same with other tool too i'd suspect the ECU rather than the modulator
02Disco2
Well-Known Member
Ok, thanks again for your help. I’ll check resistance again tomorrow (is there a figure I “should” be getting or just the same as pin 10?)
The SLABS ECU was replaced about 9 months ago (long story but a friend had a good working SRD500070 ecu that he gave me - attached) and it’s been faultless with no issues until yesterday, not that that’s any indication!!
will try to find someone with a Hawkeye locally
have a good Christmas
02Disco2
Well-Known Member
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I dont know the exact resistance, if you get the same like pin 10 it's OK, eventually check at ECU connector C0506 pins 7 and 10 too
02Disco2
Well-Known Member
Will do. Thank you again for all the help
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
If you are skilled enough to unpin the wires at the ECU or modulator would be a good test to swap the RLOV with RROV wires then check the code again
02Disco2
Well-Known Member
I’m certainly not but have a mate who is pretty good with electrics so will ask him - certainly worth a shot
I have 3 months till the mot so have a little time before panicking completely!
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
It's very strange that the circuit passes the nanocom output test and that code keeps coming on that's why i suspect that maybe the code is false
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
BTW did you test the outputs for all the 8 valves ? worth a try cos if nanocom mixed them up as it used to do ocasionally with sensors maybe you find the circuit which is at fault in reality if that's the case
02Disco2
Well-Known Member
I didn’t no, a good suggestion. Will try that in the morning along with fitting the new hub and sensor when that arrives
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
You can also watch inputs with nanocom so better use all the diagnostic capacity of it in that area
INPUT ABS
.......
Inlet valve: This shows the voltage being applied to this valve by the SLABS ECU. When
driven, the voltage should be around 2.8 to 3.6 Volts and when not being driven, should
be around 0 to 0.5 Volts.
Outlet valve - Front Right, Front Left, Rear Right, Rear left: This shows the voltage being
applied to this valve by the SLABS ECU. When driven, the voltage should be around 2.8
to 3.6 Volts and when not being driven, should be around 0 to 0.5 Volts.
......
INPUT ABS
.......
Inlet valve: This shows the voltage being applied to this valve by the SLABS ECU. When
driven, the voltage should be around 2.8 to 3.6 Volts and when not being driven, should
be around 0 to 0.5 Volts.
Outlet valve - Front Right, Front Left, Rear Right, Rear left: This shows the voltage being
applied to this valve by the SLABS ECU. When driven, the voltage should be around 2.8
to 3.6 Volts and when not being driven, should be around 0 to 0.5 Volts.
......
02Disco2
Well-Known Member
another good suggestion, thank you. I read that the other week but had forgotten about it. Will try that tomorrow as well- will take my mind off the impending Tier 4 lockdown!
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I dont know as i didnt try but if nanocom can record data on SD card from ABS like it can from engine inputs would be good to record a log from a drive then everything would be clearer just drive it slowly and straight on a good road as the TC to not kick in cos then the inputs will be all over the place
NPG
Well-Known Member
In addition to @sierrafery's guidance, here are some additional web links with procedures and important parameters that might help you troubleshoot this problem :
https://www.roverparts.com/techtips/shuttle_valve_switches_test_proc.cfm
https://blackbox-solutions.com/help/SM016.html
https://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/discovery-ii-abs-system
https://www.roverparts.com/techtips/shuttle_valve_switches_test_proc.cfm
https://blackbox-solutions.com/help/SM016.html
https://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/discovery-ii-abs-system
02Disco2
Well-Known Member
Thanks @NPG will have a read today and will see if I can record the abs on nanocom.
2nd hand slabs ecu’ a are about £15 on eBay and while mine now is the SRD500070 version and these are 000070 or 0000150 (is one better than the other?) is it worth getting hold of one just to rule out the ecu playing a part?
02Disco2
Well-Known Member
@sierrafery I've recorded some data from SLABs to Nanocom. Attached files are; stationary with ignition at stage 2 and while moving. Moving data isnt huge as there was a comms error (or something!) that stopped it recording.
But I can see that the RL shows higher than the other outlet vales, both while moving and while stationary - although I'm not clever enough to understand exactly what this means!
As soon as I clear the codes I get "rear left outlet valve open circuit 3 times" - attached as part of ZIP file
Also, I ran the tests again from nanocom and either I was mistaken last time or hit the wrong test as both inlet and outlet valves for Rear Left click and sound the same as others - however, the RIGHT outlet valve makes no noise at all (all others have a fast click) but does on the inlet valve - which is odd as that's not throwing any codes.
Still trying to find someone with a Hawkeye but suspect that may take a while now and might result in a trip to the garage in the New Year
But I can see that the RL shows higher than the other outlet vales, both while moving and while stationary - although I'm not clever enough to understand exactly what this means!
As soon as I clear the codes I get "rear left outlet valve open circuit 3 times" - attached as part of ZIP file
Also, I ran the tests again from nanocom and either I was mistaken last time or hit the wrong test as both inlet and outlet valves for Rear Left click and sound the same as others - however, the RIGHT outlet valve makes no noise at all (all others have a fast click) but does on the inlet valve - which is odd as that's not throwing any codes.
Still trying to find someone with a Hawkeye but suspect that may take a while now and might result in a trip to the garage in the New Year
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Good job, i'll come back to you as soon as i'll be sober enouhh to tell you what to do... patience please.
Merry christmas to all
Merry christmas to all
