fett said:
yes how did you guess :p, dont trust any so called landrover mechanics ever- waste of money, better off doing it yourself or even just getting jo blogs garage to do simple mechanical work.

do all my own work on the landy now bar mot tests, its always given the time and attention it needs for a 40 year old motor and no bull**** "thats how it should be" or being charged for half a job!

dummy spat, lol :p
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i do agree with ya totally, i done all the work on it myself, with help from the forum too. one day i'll put the "I built this thread in" But this has got me stumped.
 
good man, Id rather have that reader for my £50 than leave the car with some clown for half an hour only for it to come back none the wiser.
 
fett said:
could be your lambdas plying up. I never had to worry about that on mine as it was catless. worth getting the fault code reader
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was wondering this myself, but again they is pretty expensive to change just to try it. and they have had the last 15 yrs being cooked, look a bastid to get out!! I could check the resistance if anyone knows the values as the plugs are accessable.
 
3.5 efi said:
allowed ;)
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you know it amazes me, twice I have had so called pro landrover experts one of whom is well known on here fail to be even able to fit an exhaust properly. and that was on two differnt landies.

They really are just money grabbing bastars to lazy to do a proper job and still want to take the cash.

ooo er blood pressure. and this was a year ago near enough, yopu can imagine my mood at the time
 
cox325 said:
was wondering this myself, but again they is pretty expensive to change just to try it. and they have had the last 15 yrs being cooked, look a bastid to get out!! I could check the resistance if anyone knows the values as the plugs are accessable.
Click to expand...

I meant get the code reader, then you shall know the fault unless its ign or mechanical of course lol
 
cox325 said:
quite right, it is a large fibre washer as you rightly pointed out!! :clap2:

but the throttle pot "gasket" is a gasket and is still not there!!:5bcheers2:
Click to expand...

Clad about that as my large green fibre washer fell apart when I removed my 'stepper' so had to make a replacement.

Now back to the topic what ever that was, it seems to be lost now.:)
 
Hi all

Got the same problem. Been through quite a few things. Plugs, leads, dizz cap etc. Substituted AFM. New Oxy sensors. Checked other sensors for correct values with AVO and the timing strobes up Ok. Oh and checked / cleaned injectors and stepper motor. Getting ****ed off now as am running out of options. I know its running rich as the plugs are sooty and its drinking fuel. Help! any clues please.
 
didnt know the AFM was adjustable???? had the car back from the garage. no change, the independent had no idea, suggested after a week of having it, I should take it to an Auto Electrician. bit miffed really that they couldnt sort it or even give me a better idea.
 
wat year and engine is it? if its got hotwire you can adjust the afm with an allen key and a multimeter
 
On early 14CU systems this had a manual adjustment to set the lower limit voltage, but with the advent of the 14CUX, it became self calibration, so the elongated holes where removed.
 
no, 14 cux has adjustable afm as shown on rpi website and I have also done that adjustment on my old car with a multimeter and allen key
 
Hi. Had a play with mine yesterday (MAF) that is. Not made a lot of differance.
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Had a look on the RPI site, but still a little confused, Is it the blue red stripe that is the CO signal and what would be the correct voltage be?
 
are we taking unstable idle or revs droping when put in gear at ide (loading the engine) the engine needs to know its in gear to compenste the load:beer2::beer2:
 
My issue and I assume the OP issue is when putting it in D (auto) or R, and sitting at the traffic lights in D for a while too.
 
just a quick update:
adjusted throttle pot, it was 0.24v now 0.35
adjusted AFM voltage was 0.7v now 1.8v
settings taken from rpi engineering website.
re done the base idle, and no change what so ever!!!! disconnected both lambdas and engine hunts, reconnected and solid idle..lurverly.

Problem of revs dropping when selecting D or R still there. maybe its a gearbox thing???
ordering the 14cux fault code reader next to see what that comes up with. bugger me sideways with a breaker bar, im stumped!!!!
 
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