I believe he said he had tried a new coil already ( I CBA to go back through 10 pages to check).
If the carb guy says its not fuel or spark problem that doesnt leave a lot, apart from timing. I'll admit to knowing nothing about electronic dizzys, do they have vac advance on them?
 
Kev12 said:
vac advance on them?
Click to expand...

Yes they do.. but they need earthing I have fitted one to mine because it was originally 24V and the dizzy fitted had done many more miles in a P6B/SD V8 than the 14klm the engine has..I'm beginning to think there might be a faulty dizzy...what else can it be??...I'm stumped as well as everyone above...
 
jamesmartin said:
those filters never fill fully and be best down stream on its side, presumably youve fitted a new coil and or dizzy amp they are the 2 things ignition wise that spring to mind of engine dying after it warms up
Click to expand...

Still would like to see more fuel in that filter though if that's it primed...think he's changed coil after fitting a new one with electronic dizzy...
 
Shippers said:
Still would like to see more fuel in that filter though if that's it primed...think he's changed coil after fitting a new one with electronic dizzy...
Click to expand...
Just playing with it this morning and realized of course the fuel is only half full it’s not a pressurized system as it has run back so the level is because the (viewing) filter sits 45% above the carb, as soon as I pushed it to the same height as the float blows it filled up so that’s answered that one
 
So started it this morning, plugged in a light between a spark plug and got ready with camera to film it.....didn’t cut out run all the way up to 82-85 fans cut in all seems to be ok everything around 87 degrees. Alt 50 at the front 80 in the middle and 60 degrees at the back so seems to be ok. With shielding around 85 degrees above headers so leads are happy and not extreme hot air being fed to carbs. As it didn’t cut out I took it for a spin up the hill not a clean powerful pull up to 5k rpm but not spluttering and coughing went home sat on drive way thinking well that’s good but weird went into garage and it died then wouldn’t restart.......yes that’s right I’m still none the wiser hopefully get the auto sparks just to check all the systems when I get back in a couple of weeks.
 
Weak fuel pump? OK when you start it up and at low speeds but cannot deliver sufficient fuel when the demand increases so the carbs eventually run dry?
 
I would like to think progress, so I will:)

This is a clue I am sure
Muddy goose said:
went home sat on drive way thinking well that’s good but weird went into garage and it died then wouldn’t restart
Click to expand...

Radiant heat/ heat sink or whatever you want to call it.

Driving good airflow, park up heat can’t get away;) something to think about.

I guess we will see you in a couple of weeks:).

J
 
DanClarke said:
Weak fuel pump? OK when you start it up and at low speeds but cannot deliver sufficient fuel when the demand increases so the carbs eventually run dry?
Click to expand...
Hi
No I’ve already tried that when stopped on side off road quickly turned off and checked both fuel bowls and ok LH side carb did have less than the other. If it was fuel it would at least splutter before she died. Although when dying if you put your foot down it keeps it going but ruff then dies anyway
 
Muddy goose said:
. If it was fuel it would at least splutter before she died. Although when dying if you put your foot down it keeps it going but ruff then dies anyway
Click to expand...

That sounds like a fuel problem...when you try to start after it has died and youv'e left it for a while does it start imediatly after a couple of cranks or do you have to crank for a long time and wait till it starts keeping it turning over...
 
Shippers said:
That sounds like a fuel problem...when you try to start after it has died and youv'e left it for a while does it start imediatly after a couple of cranks or do you have to crank for a long time and wait till it starts keeping it turning over...
Click to expand...
It can be restarted within mins as if all was ok
 
marjon said:
I would like to think progress, so I will:)

This is a clue I am sure


Radiant heat/ heat sink or whatever you want to call it.

Driving good airflow, park up heat can’t get away;) something to think about.

I guess we will see you in a couple of weeks:).

J
Click to expand...
Yes I hope with positive news if I can get it looked at just to check electrics and I also might get the chance to use an edelbrock manifold and Weber carb setup for the day to see if it’s anything to do with the fueling side.
With the under bonnet heat at stand still is something I’ve been thinking about, with the big ally rad my twin fans are in front of the rad so mix that with the engine heat and exhaust that’s a lot of heat even in the cab (great in the winter lol). Thoughts are heat shield on the bulk as the electrics get very warm as directly behind bulkhead. Second thought was venting the engine bay do I. a) cut holes in side of bonnet. b) raise the tread panel on the centre of the bonnet at the front by a few mm to create an air scoop, without looking like an air scoop as under the tread panel I could cut out the square centre between the support frame and then also fit an 8” fan to blow fresh air over the engine at stand still. Down side in my mind was water going all over the engine in a down pour.
 
Muddy goose said:
Yes I hope with positive news if I can get it looked at just to check electrics and I also might get the chance to use an edelbrock manifold and Weber carb setup for the day to see if it’s anything to do with the fueling side.
With the under bonnet heat at stand still is something I’ve been thinking about, with the big ally rad my twin fans are in front of the rad so mix that with the engine heat and exhaust that’s a lot of heat even in the cab (great in the winter lol). Thoughts are heat shield on the bulk as the electrics get very warm as directly behind bulkhead. Second thought was venting the engine bay do I. a) cut holes in side of bonnet. b) raise the tread panel on the centre of the bonnet at the front by a few mm to create an air scoop, without looking like an air scoop as under the tread panel I could cut out the square centre between the support frame and then also fit an 8” fan to blow fresh air over the engine at stand still. Down side in my mind was water going all over the engine in a down pour.
Click to expand...

Take it for a run with the bonnet off before you start chopping it about.
 
Ok some thoughts.
You had a decent run with no issues, possibly because you have that extra filter, more volume at the carb which may help.

“Coughing and spluttering more throttle seems to keep it going ruff but still dies” could point to fuel or elec. component breaking down.
Because it drove ok but last stopped on idle (in garage) no load or much fuel use at this point.

Under bonnet heat.
Shippers said:
Take it for a run with the bonnet off before you start chopping it about.
Click to expand...

Good idea ^^^ take a passenger who can see the fuel filter.
I have seen a few cars with the back end of the bonnet raised to leave a gap to get hot air out. Not sure if that’s possible.

Also maybe block 1 of the return fuel lines, with 2 you have halved the return restriction at the carbs, although if I remember they do both go to the same line further on. Original set up was 1in 1 out although 2 in seems fine maybe 2 out is not.

Is the coil on the bulkhead? Move it somewhere cooler?

Just some thought while having a cuppa out of the sun:)

J
 
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