sible88 said:

Hi kev I have took the plugs out and they are very sooty and black so like you said it's over fueling? Taking plenum off now but does look very black/ oil? Sorry for all the questions but is it the Allen key on the plenum next to throttle body for air fuel mix? Think my mate undid this when trying to remove the plenum if it is I am going to kill him

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Black sooty plugs could be running rich.

Very black/oily plenum is no good at all, lots of carb and intake cleaner required. Make sure you check and set the throttle disc. If it is that black and slimey you might want to take the ram housing off and clean that too.

When's your mates funeral?

sible88 said:

Are you trying to rub It in that your runs ok or what?

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No mate, apologies...

Ok going to check the values on loom tonight, got it booked in early next week to have the ign timing done. I have cleaned the plenum it was black and bit of oil but weren't too bad brake cleaner done the trick. Need to know do I need to take it to a land rover dealer to set up ign timing or will a back street landy bloke be able to do just as good of a job? May be more expensive at dealer but I won't be paying out twice lol.

fett said:

Thats the base idle screw , dont mess with it! I did and a world of hurt ensued :doh:

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hmmm been there! had to mess with mine to get it to the garage because the revs drop when it warms up!

Right I have had enough does anyone want a 3.9 efi to rebuilt? Been offered a 4.6 efi so gonna throw that in it also has a stage 1 on it??? Will my auto gearbox mate up or do I have to use the R380?

Here's some interesting info i copied from a TVR forum i found whilst googling:

"Just a little note about the MIL lamp with the 14CUX as implemented by TVR. This is worth tackling if you are taking the dash off to update the symbol panel.

Firstly, with the standard TVR software the MIL lamp will NEVER come on if fault codes are present in the ECU. It is prgrammed to flash briefly at ignition-on as a bulb check. This is normal, and Land Rover prgrammed it this way for all territories except North America (where it is a legal requirement).

However you won't see the TVR one come on at all, because it isn't wired correctly. Lucas intended that the MIL lamp shoud have an ignition-switched live feed, and the ECU would earth the lamp to turn it on. However TVR supplied the lamp with an earth, believing that the ECU would supply 12 Volts to it.

If you have your dash apart, it is worth changing the feed to the MIL lamp from Earth to ignition-switched live (available from one of the other lamps near it).

Should you have the Tornado software, this will always activate the MIL lamp if there are fault codes presnt in the ECU. Note that any fault code will activate the MIL lamp, even if it is something obscure like the Purge Valve which has no effect on normal driving.

Late vehicles which have the MIL lamp to the right of the tacho are wired correctly."

Hmmm

so does that mean I am ok?? its a 1990 classic.

sible88 said:

Right I have had enough does anyone want a 3.9 efi to rebuilt? Been offered a 4.6 efi so gonna throw that in it also has a stage 1 on it??? Will my auto gearbox mate up or do I have to use the R380?

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I do , have PM'd ya

fett said:

so does that mean I am ok?? its a 1990 classic.

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well yeah i guess so.

i think what its saying is that the warning lamp will not come on if there is a fault code stored (except in north america where it is legally required to)

In all other cases you need a fault code reader.

i assume some or all range rovers were supplied with this



which is a fault code display

not sure where it would be, if it was a workshop tool or what though!

looks tasty though. here's the blurb:

"Fuel Injection Fault Display

The fuel injection fault display provides two-digit diagnostic codes in a way that's very easy to read: the display has a dark red, transparent, molded plastic case. Light emitting diodes can be seen through the side of the case when a fault code is displayed. Nifty!

If multiple faults exist, the display shows the one that the ECU thinks is highest priority. Higher priority faults need to be "cleared" before lower priority faults will be displayed. A "blank" (dark) display usually indicates there are no faults.

Use this procedure to clear faults:
1. Switch "on" the ignition.
2. Disconnect the serial link mating plug, wait five seconds, and reconnect.
3. Switch "off" the ignition, and wait several seconds.
4. Switch "on" the ignition. The display should now reset.
Note: It should either show a lower priority fault code or appear dark.

Rover Diagnostic ("Fault") Codes 12 Mass airflow (MAF) sensor or MAF sensor circuit 14 Coolant temperature sensor (CTS) 15 Fuel temperature sensor (FTS) 17 Throttle position sensor (TPS) 18 Throttle position sensor (TPS) 19 Throttle position sensor (TPS) 21 Tune resistor (open circuit) 23 Fuel system pressure 25 Ignition misfire 28 Air leak 29 Electronic control module (ECM) memory check 34 Injector (or its wiring) - cylinder bank "A" 36 Injector (or its wiring) - cylinder bank "B" 40 Misfire - cylinder bank "A" 44 Oxygen sensor - cylinder bank "A" 45 Oxygen sensor - cylinder bank "B" 48 Idle air control valve (also check the idle speed and road speed sensor) 50 Misfire - cylinder bank "B" 59 "group fault" (it's either an air leak or a fuel supply problem) 68 Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) 69 Gear selector switch 88 Carbon filter solenoid valve ("purge valve") leak


Note: Fault code "02" will appear after a disconnected ECU is reconnected. Simply switch on the ignition to clear the display.

The Fuel Injection Fault Display on our example system is marked "Land Rover", "Range Rover On Board Diagnostic Display", "PRC", "7067", "17EM", "85008A", and "3589". It has a 4-lead pigtail on it that's about 18" long, and the 5-pin connector on the end of the pigtail is unmarked except for terminal cavity numbers.

The wires are connected as follows: 1 - Brown/Orange, 2 - Black/Grey, 3 - Pink, 4 - Not Used, and 5 - Brown/White. "

check this item number on ebay

220685872727

it basically explains the whole mystery

I like it!

stu has a cool gadget that actually tells you the codes/faults in words.

its an ex dealer tool he found on ebay, lucky guy!

V8 auto drivers- where does your rev counter point when in D with foot on the brake (ie not moving). Cheers!

*think I have it running nicely now but not counting my chickens yet!*

about 300-500 rpm , too low really but its as good as its gonna get.

Been told the tachos on these arnt very acurate neway

if it was me throw the lucas ignition parts in the bin and buy dealer cap leads and rotor rest base idle with a sperate tacho unit reset timing to 6 degress before top change the coolant temp sensor if all else fails call me