thebiglad said:
I believe there is a pressure valve within the oil filter, so merely as a process of elimination I would get a genuine LR oil filter.

ERR3340G | Oil Filter - Genuine


Dave
Click to expand...

I used a Bearmach filter last time, but I have a LR one on order now. Worth a try eh.. :)

Hornet.. Only leaks I have is what looks like a dribble coming from the head gasket and one of the oil cooler pipes. Neither are bad. The engine doesn't seem to burn much either,
2012-12-05095714.jpg

2012-12-05095736.jpg
 
Pressure relief valve etc should be checked as suggested. The engine can't be too bad if you have already done the shells and there is no discernible knock or evidence of poor running.

With regards to the oil leaking, I am a firm believer in no matter what condition your truck is in you should always keep the engine clean and any leaks should be sorted as it makes it easier to see when problems start. I always clean her off after off roading and regularly look her over for leaks of any kind.
 
I have the same problem, oil light flickers once warmed up slightly. Then once warm it takes a bit of revs's to turn the light out. And if left to idle it is hunting once warm. I do not know the pressure, need to check.

Just had new Piston rings, Big end bearings, Oil pump, Pressure switch, Oil and Filter.

Solved it? Nope!

Reason i went the route i did, it was smoking out of the head when oil cap was removed, some black smoke when driving normal from exhaust, chucking oil out of the breather, not masses but certainly noticeable and the hunting all lead me to Rings. The above was only done recently and i have not had chance check these symptoms since. But it does still hunt on idle.
 
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AshyB03 said:
I have the same problem, oil light flickers once warmed up slightly. Then once warm it takes a bit of revs's to turn the light out. And if left to idle it is hunting once warm. I do not know the pressure, need to check.

Just had new Piston rings, Big end bearings, Oil pump, Pressure switch, Oil and Filter.

Solved it? Nope!

Reason i went the route i did, it was smoking out of the head when oil cap was removed, some black smoke when driving normal from exhaust, chucking oil out of the breather, not masses but certainly noticeable and the hunting all lead me to Rings. The above was only done recently and i have not had chance check these symptoms since. But it does still hunt on idle.
Click to expand...
Exactly what i did to mine and still no oil pressure.
I took it to James Martin, Who fully rebuilt it for me, he is the man, it was running 5 psi oil pressure at tickover, now its 45 psi
 
I would love to get James to re-build mine, but he is miles away and I have not got the money. Also, I really want to learn how to maintain a 200 tdi myself, cos I think its a superb engine and I love the Land Rover owner thing where you always have something to do with them. It suits my life style..
I feel chuffed to bits that I have just replaced the bearings and the car is still working (despite the oil light still on).

Hornet.. You are right, I should keep the engine clean. :)
 
Did you measure the crank journals before refitting the bearings? There's a chance they could have gone slightly oval with running on worn bearings.

You really need to fit an oil pressure gauge though so you can tell if you just have an issue at hot idle, or at high revs too.
 
jamesmartin said:
size is stamped on shell back though it should be std
Click to expand...

I have been going back through this fred looking for clues.

I looked at the old bearing shells in me scrap pile and they do not appear to be standard ones. I replaced using std ones, I remember it said std on them.
Here is a pic of the stamp on my old shells.. Have I fitted the wrong ones..?
P1060963_zpsdb5f24be.jpg


phil540uk.. I did not measure the journals. I would not know what sizes to look for or anything..
 
Hi Jonny,

Been doing a little research myself on your behalf.

The link below is to an interesting site regarding the land rover engines and lists an issue (rare but happens enough to be listed) where the first signs are oil pressure light on at idle.

Apparently if the engine has gotten hot in the not so distant past, the camshaft bearings can move from their seats exposing the oil gallery. At speed the oil pump can provide oil pressure that keeps the light out but the fist signs of the bearings moving is that the oil light comes on at idle.

Have a butchers

The TDi pages - information on 200 and 300 TDi - by Glencoyne Engineering
 
thebiglad said:
Might I may a small suggestion before you start ripping things apart?

On a number of occasions I've come across cars with flickering lights at idle and found that replacing the cheapie oil filter with a good quality known-brand one has cured the problem.

For a £5 or so, what's to lose?
Click to expand...
+1 I had the same problem with a britpart oil filter. Changed it for a better one no more flickering light :)
 
GreenHornet said:
Hi Jonny,

Been doing a little research myself on your behalf.

The link below is to an interesting site regarding the land rover engines and lists an issue (rare but happens enough to be listed) where the first signs are oil pressure light on at idle.

Apparently if the engine has gotten hot in the not so distant past, the camshaft bearings can move from their seats exposing the oil gallery. At speed the oil pump can provide oil pressure that keeps the light out but the fist signs of the bearings moving is that the oil light comes on at idle.

Have a butchers

The TDi pages - information on 200 and 300 TDi - by Glencoyne Engineering
Click to expand...
Superb link.. Cheers for that chap :) Thats gonna help me in lots of areas. My bearings were seated correctly though.

stubradley1 said:
+1 I had the same problem with a britpart oil filter. Changed it for a better one no more flickering light :)
Click to expand...
I have bought me a LR filter, but have not got to putting it on yet. Do you lose much oil replacing it if not changing the oil..?
 
Not really a lot of oil loss. Just runs all over your hands lol.

You could always stab the bottom of the filter to drain before removal
 
I normally stab through low down from the side with a posi driver then after its drained use screwdriver as lever to undo :)
 
JonnyP said:
I have been going back through this fred looking for clues.

I looked at the old bearing shells in me scrap pile and they do not appear to be standard ones. I replaced using std ones, I remember it said std on them.
Here is a pic of the stamp on my old shells.. Have I fitted the wrong ones..?
P1060963_zpsdb5f24be.jpg
Click to expand...

Anyone know if these are std or not please..?
 
Just found that they are standard shells.

Oversize normally will be etc6422010 for +10 6422020 for +20, etc etc

Standard crank is something like 58.75mm I think and I can tell you that the ETC bearing is crank and the ERC is big end. Gosh I'm good.....
 
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Cheers chaps.. :)
I have been driving for over a year now with the oil light coming on at low revs and the engine still sounds ok. Sometimes the light flickers at tick over, sometimes it doesn't come on at all after a long drive. Sometimes it comes on fully at tick over, and sometimes it comes on up to 1600 rpm.
If I sit in traffic I keep the revs up, and sometimes I have to drive in a lower gear to keep the light off, but it does not seem to have any affect on my engine. I am gonna just keep driving it as it is and will report back here if anything changes..

Thanks for all the help on this guys. Its really helped me big time. :)
ps.. I have just changed the front brake pads.. I wish all the jobs were as easy as that on it..
 
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