200tdiRob · Aug 28, 2016

Hi all, been lurking on here a while reading through all the great build threads and picking up alot of good info. Thought id put my build up too incase there is anything im doing that others might be interested in.

Anyway we picked this 200tdi 90 up last year as a run around for my wife and as a new project for me to tinker with.

After driving it around for a year and after a few clutch related breakdowns and the fact that the chassis was pretty much rotten to the core I decided it was time to build the defender we wanted. A new galv chassis was ordered from Richards and the strip down started.

While I was waiting for the chassis to be built and delivered I started to tackle the engine rebuild. I'd never rebuilt an engine before but decided the 200tdi was as good as any to be my first. First step was to strip it of all ancillaries and put it on the stand

After stripping the engine down to the bare block and cleaing all the componants everything didnt seem in too bad a condition. The engine had covered 160k but the shells didnt look to bad and the head had no signs of cracking or other nasties. Starting put everything back together once id given the block a few coats of paint with all new shells, rings, seals etc. . . .

Still need to get the turbo looked at by someone so any suggestions of companies people have used are welcome.
Just about finished the engine when this showed up!

More to follow when i managed to get the pics off my phone. . . .

Al2O3 · Aug 28, 2016

Another rebuild thread is always welcome.

The engine rebuild looks stunning. Have you replaced every ancillary/casing bolt or cleaned them? They look brand new!

200tdiRob · Aug 28, 2016

Al2O3 said:
Another rebuild thread is always welcome.
The engine rebuild looks stunning. Have you replaced every ancillary/casing bolt or cleaned them? They look brand new!

Thanks bud! Reading through your build thread was one of the things that inspired me to go for a full on rebuild. I did think about replacing all the bolts but it would have cost a bomb! What I done instead was buy a zinc plating kit off a well known auction site and re-plate all the bolts. Took ages but I think it was definitely worth the effort.

Al2O3 · Aug 28, 2016

200tdiRob said:
Thanks bud! Reading through your build thread was one of the things that inspired me to go for a full on rebuild. I did think about replacing all the bolts but it would have cost a bomb! What I done instead was buy a zinc plating kit off a well known auction site and re-plate all the bolts. Took ages but I think it was definitely worth the effort.

Well, as I already know I'm going to enjoy watching your work it's nice to know I may have played a little part in encouraging you to go for it. Like you, I was inspired by the rebuilds on LZ.
I'm going to look up the zinc plating kit because it's done a cracking job. That sort of attention to detail makes a world of difference.
Good luck with the project, but it doesn't look as though you are going to need it. It looks tremendous so far and you obviously work to high standards.

Have you checked key dimensions on your RC chassis before you do anything to it? Well worth doing.

Huddy84 · Aug 28, 2016

Looking nice, very shiney engine

greyhair · Aug 29, 2016

Cracking work so far
engine looks really good

200tdiRob · Aug 29, 2016

Al2O3 said:
Have you checked key dimensions on your RC chassis before you do anything to it? Well worth doing.

I have done a quick check as when i first got the chassis and it was sat on axle stands it seemed like there was a slight twist in it.

Ill just have to deal with it if it is problem down the line. Considering they are supposed to be built in a jig ive read alot about other peoples being wrong as well.

.

cornish rattler · Aug 29, 2016

Nice work on the engine, I wanted to do that with my disco 200 engine I bought for the 90 but after buying it off ebay through paypal and collecting it the the guy said the engine had been fully re-con'd a short while back, I was buying it as an old high mileage engine with the intention of doing what you have done but with the work already been done I decided on just checking stuff just to make sure it had been done which it had so I replaced all the gaskets and seals aswell as new timing belt and a few other bits, had a problem with the FIP and injectors when I came to start running it but tomorrow I am collecting the 90 from the diesel specialist after having the FIP a injectors overhauled so can't wait for that tomorrow

200tdiRob · Aug 29, 2016

Thanks all for the positive comments.

cornish rattler said:
, had a problem with the FIP and injectors when I came to start running it but tomorrow I am collecting the 90 from the diesel specialist after having the FIP a injectors overhauled so can't wait for that tomorrow

I may yet have issues with mine yet. It Is my first rebuild so may just be a big pretty boat anchor yet!

IamRobbie · Aug 29, 2016

Good luck with the build

defenderdog · Aug 29, 2016

Wikid engine rebuild mate. I'm in to a rebuild at the moment and I'm in two minds whether to rebuild the engine and looking at yours it seems the way to go as it looks the nuts. Keep the updates coming, I'll be following

Al2O3 · Aug 29, 2016

200tdiRob said:
I have done a quick check as when i first got the chassis and it was sat on axle stands it seemed like there was a slight twist in it. Ill just have to deal with it if it is problem down the line. Considering they are supposed to be built in a jig ive read alot about other peoples being wrong as well. .

I'd be worried if it was twisted. That could give hellish problems lining the body, doors, roof etc up. Don't know how you would know or could check unless you have a perfectly flat surface. From my experience first thing I would check is the tubular outrigger to rear cross member dimensions. I would then check front outrigger positions.

200tdiRob · Aug 30, 2016

Al2O3 said:
I'd be worried if it was twisted. That could give hellish problems lining the body, doors, roof etc up. Don't know how you would know or could check unless you have a perfectly flat surface. From my experience first thing I would check is the tubular outrigger to rear cross member dimensions. I would then check front outrigger positions.

Thats the problem. I dont know if its the floor out of level or a twist. Ill have a measure of the outriggers tomorrow to double check. Thanks for the heads up!

micknkatenki · Aug 31, 2016

looking good so far, well done for attempting chassis swop and engine rebuild. will be watching as looks interesting.....
make sure the chassis is sat square and level on the stands/drive, if not that might give it a slight twist.

mick the builder · Aug 31, 2016

As Mick said, 4 axle stands or blocks, level them from side to side and sit chassis on top. any wobble would indicate chassis out of square. Failing that, just eyeball the rear crossmember against another horizontal point at the front and see if the two points look parallel.

zeaphod · Aug 31, 2016

Your driveway seems to slope in two directions from the photo, hopefully it's just that making the chassis look twisted.

200tdiRob · Aug 31, 2016

Right managed to get the pics off my phone so this post will update the build to how it sits at the mo.

As I prefer the stock chassis look to the bare galv look the chassis was washed in t-wash then treated to a few coats of primer followed by a few coats of frost extreem chassis black paint. Came out looking just the way I wanted.

After the chassis was painted I started to rebuild the two td5 axles I won on ebay. They were first stripped down and sent to be shotblasted then primed and painted in the same chassis black as the chassis. Once painted they were both rebuilt using all new bearings, seals, shims and some new sexy looking Ebc disks. The new axles should provide a much improved braking ability replacing the rear drums and non vented front disks im used to on the old axles.

Once the axles were done all the suspension bushes were removed and replaced with superpro bushes which from what ive read give a big improvement in ride quality.

Once the bushes were in it was finally time to build up the rolling chassis which was something id really been looking forward too after spending hours cleaning and painting. For wheels and tyres I went with some 16x8 black modulars wrapped in some bf goodrich ko2's. For shocks and springs I went with td5 progressive springs for the front and some dico rear springs on the back with bilstein dampers.

Thats how it currently sits at the moment. Need to sort some hd steering rods and some front and rear anti-roll bars. I stupidly didnt spec the front anti- roll bar mounts when i ordered the chassis so have had to order them from yrm. Just need to work out exactly where to mount them and will probable bolt them on using rivnuts in the chassis rather than weld them. Also need to decide on a rear tank cradle for the td5 tank im gonna run and strip out the harness from the other chassis and fill the new chassis with dinitrol cavity wax. Anyone know how much dinitrol it takes to do a 90 chassis???

Paul D · Aug 31, 2016

Nice .. one day I'll do mine without having to run it too ...

Al2O3 · Aug 31, 2016

Looks great

micknkatenki · Sep 1, 2016

looking good.

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Old, nackered 'n broke, but the Landy is fine . :)

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