200tdiRob
Active Member
The kit cost £350 off eBay. Bit pricey but it is for pretty much every hose on the engine. The seller does sell the hoses separately if you only want certain ones and also in several colours. EBay link below:
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/FITS-LANDRO...%3Aa52d672915a0a2ab9612d4c9fffcb350%7Ciid%3A1
200tdiRob
Active Member
Yea that's like mine. I had to polish the top and paint the grooves to get it to look like that though.
200tdiRob
Active Member
Some more big and very expensive boxes got delivered this week so got some big bits done.
The first was the new r380 stumpy gearbox which was bolted to the 1:2 ratio transfer box I rebuilt. The r380 came with a heavy duty clutch fork so hopefully no premature clutch failures!
Whole lot bolted up.
Next up to be fitted was the allisport full width intercooler. Had to chop a section out of the fan cowling to make room for one of the pipes but was pretty much a breeze to fit.
The first was the new r380 stumpy gearbox which was bolted to the 1:2 ratio transfer box I rebuilt. The r380 came with a heavy duty clutch fork so hopefully no premature clutch failures!
Whole lot bolted up.
Next up to be fitted was the allisport full width intercooler. Had to chop a section out of the fan cowling to make room for one of the pipes but was pretty much a breeze to fit.
200tdiRob
Active Member
Looking great... I got some of those hoses.. I did have to trim mine a bit, the turbo to air filter and one of the intercooler pipe elbows.. but better looking than the squishy oily ones I had
Yea had to trim some of mine down to fit how I wanted. Do look way better than the standard old ones too!
They do some nice kit. Be interesting to see what difference it makes to how it drives now.
Cheers bud. Been building this in my head for the past 3 years so nice to finally be putting it together.
200tdiRob
Active Member
Got the tub back this week from the painter so took advantage of the nice weather to coat the underside of it in Dinitrol. Also did the freshly re-galved wheel tubs at the same time.
Tub fitted once it was dry
Also managed to get the brake master cylinder, and clutch Assembly's bolted in and bleed. Had a bit of a trouble with the clutch pedal assembly though. I'm using the clutch pedal assembly from the td5 bulkhead I bought but it differs from the original 200tdi one. Basically the 200tdi pedal has a bolt that screws in to the back of the assembly that allows you to adjust the pedal height but the td5 one only has a bolt to adjust the pedal stop point. This normally wouldn't be too much of an issue but I wanted to fit the clutch assist spring kit to make the clutch alot kinder to my knee in traffic. When this spring is fitted it will either hold the pedal all the way forward or all the way back.
If you read the workshop manual it says you should set up the clutch m/c with 6mm of float on the push rod between the nuts and where the push rod goes through the end of the pedal. With the assist spring fitted it means the pedal would have always been pulling or pushing on the push rod of the m/c as there is no bolt to set the pedal height. I didn't like the thought of this as I thought it may wear the m/c prematurely so I decided to modify the pedal box. I drilled a hole through the end of the pedal box assembly and welded a nut on the outside. This means I can now wind a bolt through and set the pedal height to 140mm then set up the m/c push rod with the 6mm float without the pedal wanting to put any pressure on the push rod. Hope that all makes sense.
Pic showing the mod before I welded the nut on.
Now it's all fitted up and bled the extra effort was well worth it. The clutch is much easier to push now and works a treat.
Heater box fitted. Just need to find where I put the replacement OEM sticker for the front.
Rigged up the header tank and the power steering reservoir to get it ready for the first big start.
Also got the slick shift kit fitted and some new gear knobs.
Managed to rig up the battery and went to start it up for the first time but all that happened was the starter clicked and nothing else. Stripped it off and opened it up and the gears inside were seized up. Managed to free them off but still decided to fit a new starter for piece of mind. After the new starter was on and a bit off oil pressure priming it fired straight up and ran smooth as anything. What a massive relief!
Tub fitted once it was dry
Also managed to get the brake master cylinder, and clutch Assembly's bolted in and bleed. Had a bit of a trouble with the clutch pedal assembly though. I'm using the clutch pedal assembly from the td5 bulkhead I bought but it differs from the original 200tdi one. Basically the 200tdi pedal has a bolt that screws in to the back of the assembly that allows you to adjust the pedal height but the td5 one only has a bolt to adjust the pedal stop point. This normally wouldn't be too much of an issue but I wanted to fit the clutch assist spring kit to make the clutch alot kinder to my knee in traffic. When this spring is fitted it will either hold the pedal all the way forward or all the way back.
If you read the workshop manual it says you should set up the clutch m/c with 6mm of float on the push rod between the nuts and where the push rod goes through the end of the pedal. With the assist spring fitted it means the pedal would have always been pulling or pushing on the push rod of the m/c as there is no bolt to set the pedal height. I didn't like the thought of this as I thought it may wear the m/c prematurely so I decided to modify the pedal box. I drilled a hole through the end of the pedal box assembly and welded a nut on the outside. This means I can now wind a bolt through and set the pedal height to 140mm then set up the m/c push rod with the 6mm float without the pedal wanting to put any pressure on the push rod. Hope that all makes sense.
Pic showing the mod before I welded the nut on.
Now it's all fitted up and bled the extra effort was well worth it. The clutch is much easier to push now and works a treat.
Heater box fitted. Just need to find where I put the replacement OEM sticker for the front.
Rigged up the header tank and the power steering reservoir to get it ready for the first big start.
Also got the slick shift kit fitted and some new gear knobs.
Managed to rig up the battery and went to start it up for the first time but all that happened was the starter clicked and nothing else. Stripped it off and opened it up and the gears inside were seized up. Managed to free them off but still decided to fit a new starter for piece of mind. After the new starter was on and a bit off oil pressure priming it fired straight up and ran smooth as anything. What a massive relief!
MsFire
Member
Excellent project mate
What he says!
200tdiRob
Active Member
Update time. Managed to get some more of the bodywork on but it seems lately that everything is a battle to fit. Always start out with a list of things to get done in a day and end up not doing half of it because everything takes twice as long to fit as I think it will.
Got the Tdci seat tub altered to work with the lt77 tunnel and bulkhead plate. Coated the underneath of it in Dinitrol and seam sealed all the joins before fitting it.
Next up was to try and fit the bate and Dixon tow bar. This turned out to be a right mission. When assembling it to the chassis it soon became clear that the two sections that stretch back and bolt to the fuel tank cradle section of the chassis were miles away from where they needed to be, no matter how I jiggled it to try and get it to fit.
Didn't like the idea of not having those sections bolted to the chassis so I decided to fab up some 45 degree brackets to join the chassis to the tow bar.
Tow bar on and I love it. Gonna need a padlock through the one pin hole I think though to stop some scumbag pinching the hitch plate.
Next up was fitting the front wings and bonnet.
Having the full width intercooler threw up the next problem. The fitting instructions call for you too remove the two slam panel supports and replace them with two brackets that bolt from the intercooler the slam panel. So I drilled two holes in my freshly powder coated slam panel as per the instructions.
With bolts fitted here though it made it impossible to fit the front panel that the grill screws too as the bolt heads stop it sitting back far enough to screw it too the slam panel. Had to make up some nut plates to rivet to the slam panel to give the brackets something to bolt too without getting in the way.
Next up was relocating the handbrake to the top of the seatbox with a range Rover lever. Decided to do this to try and improve the usability of the Landy for my wife. She's only short and it's a struggle for her to reach the handbrake and pull it on and off easily.
Started off by separating the nut from the plate that bolts to the seat tub.
Then welded this nut to the bottom of the new lever which I could then screw the cable into.
Next I positioned it up on the seatbox and drilled the holes before bolting it in.
Getting it attached to the trans box was a bit trickier. I have replaced the box with 1:2 box from a discovery. I didn't realise that the discovery box has a different mechanism that bolts to it for the handbrake. This mechanism brings the cable in from the opposite direction to the defender mechanism. I couldn't bolt the defender mech on as the disco box doesn't have the two front bolt holes drilled into the casing.. However all this means is that now my cable does a lazy loop the loop rather than a u turn underneath. Had to improvise a bit with the cable connection to the mech as well but it all works well once together
Last thing to do was to wire in the switch on the lever so it throws up the warning light on the dash when it's pulled on. There was a spare connector in the loom next to gear box which I think is for a gearbox oil temp sensor. I pinched a wire from this to take a feed to the dash.
Got the Tdci seat tub altered to work with the lt77 tunnel and bulkhead plate. Coated the underneath of it in Dinitrol and seam sealed all the joins before fitting it.
Next up was to try and fit the bate and Dixon tow bar. This turned out to be a right mission. When assembling it to the chassis it soon became clear that the two sections that stretch back and bolt to the fuel tank cradle section of the chassis were miles away from where they needed to be, no matter how I jiggled it to try and get it to fit.
Didn't like the idea of not having those sections bolted to the chassis so I decided to fab up some 45 degree brackets to join the chassis to the tow bar.
Tow bar on and I love it. Gonna need a padlock through the one pin hole I think though to stop some scumbag pinching the hitch plate.
Next up was fitting the front wings and bonnet.
Having the full width intercooler threw up the next problem. The fitting instructions call for you too remove the two slam panel supports and replace them with two brackets that bolt from the intercooler the slam panel. So I drilled two holes in my freshly powder coated slam panel as per the instructions.
With bolts fitted here though it made it impossible to fit the front panel that the grill screws too as the bolt heads stop it sitting back far enough to screw it too the slam panel. Had to make up some nut plates to rivet to the slam panel to give the brackets something to bolt too without getting in the way.
Next up was relocating the handbrake to the top of the seatbox with a range Rover lever. Decided to do this to try and improve the usability of the Landy for my wife. She's only short and it's a struggle for her to reach the handbrake and pull it on and off easily.
Started off by separating the nut from the plate that bolts to the seat tub.
Then welded this nut to the bottom of the new lever which I could then screw the cable into.
Next I positioned it up on the seatbox and drilled the holes before bolting it in.
Getting it attached to the trans box was a bit trickier. I have replaced the box with 1:2 box from a discovery. I didn't realise that the discovery box has a different mechanism that bolts to it for the handbrake. This mechanism brings the cable in from the opposite direction to the defender mechanism. I couldn't bolt the defender mech on as the disco box doesn't have the two front bolt holes drilled into the casing.
. However all this means is that now my cable does a lazy loop the loop rather than a u turn underneath. Had to improvise a bit with the cable connection to the mech as well but it all works well once together Last thing to do was to wire in the switch on the lever so it throws up the warning light on the dash when it's pulled on. There was a spare connector in the loom next to gear box which I think is for a gearbox oil temp sensor. I pinched a wire from this to take a feed to the dash.
Looking absolutely superb!
And if things are only taking twice as long as you predicted, then you are doing well! It always took me 3 to 4 times longer than I thought it would. Spent over two years underestimating every job, never learned. Forever the optimist
And if things are only taking twice as long as you predicted, then you are doing well! It always took me 3 to 4 times longer than I thought it would.
Spent over two years underestimating every job, never learned. Forever the optimist
200tdiRob
Active Member
Been busy adding a ton of sound deadening and carpeting out the rear recently. Few pics of progress below.
Templates made to make the most of the Dynamat
Front tub done
Rear tub cleaned out before laying the Dynamat
Dynamat completed on rear tub
Next up was a layer of 6mm closed cell matting.
Then cut and fit the carpet and new rear mat on top of that
Once the carpet was in I could fit the four inward facing seats and seat belts that have been sitting in my spare room for the last year. As they are designed for tubs with the square arches and I have fitted a stepped arch tub I had to make up some brackets for the front mounting points.
Pic of the brackets:
Seats all in
Also managed to get my Gwyn Lewis front mud shield kit fitted. Really well designed kit and fully closes up the mud trap at the back of the front arches.
Before the kit:
Once fitted:
Had to deploy the gazebo this week as the sun has been brutal!
Got the week coming up booked off to try and get the alarm, aux fuse box and all the other electrics finished off.
Templates made to make the most of the Dynamat
Front tub done
Rear tub cleaned out before laying the Dynamat
Dynamat completed on rear tub
Next up was a layer of 6mm closed cell matting.
Then cut and fit the carpet and new rear mat on top of that
Once the carpet was in I could fit the four inward facing seats and seat belts that have been sitting in my spare room for the last year. As they are designed for tubs with the square arches and I have fitted a stepped arch tub I had to make up some brackets for the front mounting points.
Pic of the brackets:
Seats all in
Also managed to get my Gwyn Lewis front mud shield kit fitted. Really well designed kit and fully closes up the mud trap at the back of the front arches.
Before the kit:
Once fitted:
Had to deploy the gazebo this week as the sun has been brutal!
Got the week coming up booked off to try and get the alarm, aux fuse box and all the other electrics finished off.
