Gents,

They say it comes in 3's, well in 2 in our case.

Any advice or help would be great.

We returned from holiday to find that when we used our 2003 TD6 it hesitated when changing gear on kick down, this problem would only happen for a short time 4/5 mins. It seemed once running and at full battery power it would cycle up and down the box fine, no error messages and no fault codes through Hawkeye about box, but it did show a couple of codes for fuel system: DTC1260, fuel low pressure control and DTC9F6, fuel pressure monitoring whilst starting.

So I cleared these codes to see if they returned and they did, also I noticed a louder than normal sound from the middle of the vehicle sounding like a compressor.

Still with me, then the LHF Airbag developed a leak and oil water started to drip from the airbag...Great. Air Suspension Inactive, on dash.

Finally after this it now wont start at all, I cannot here the normal fuel priming noise when the ignition is first turned on.

Had a hell of a Sunday can anybody please help, never had any issue with this car and I advertise it on Ebay today and this happens.

Thanks in advance

Darell
 
carma lol

the car is getting its own back for you selling it !

why you selling it then mate ?

also sounds like one of the fuel pumps may be playing up ?
 
Lol,

Had another baby and we now need a 7 seater.

Didnt want to really but 2 baby seats and my 6 year old in the back isnt working out.

Are these pumps expensive? And difficult to change.

Also what about suspension is that hard to change?

Didnt need this now.

Cheers

Daz
 
SpackyChan said:
Lol,

Had another baby and we now need a 7 seater.

Didnt want to really but 2 baby seats and my 6 year old in the back isnt working out.

Are these pumps expensive? And difficult to change.

Also what about suspension is that hard to change?

Didnt need this now.

Cheers

Daz
Click to expand...
There are two pumps on the diesel...on inside the tank and one outside the tank....both are simple enough to do...although the in tank pump can be fiddly....access is exactly same as written in my How To at the top of the Forum.

You can just replace the whole pump assembly for a couple of hundred or just the pump part itself for less than a ton.

Search the threads for a chap who did the process I did and used the Diesel Pump instead.....(infact just noticed it is this thread!!)

The external pump is mounted on the side of the Tank under an inspection hatch, and is much easier to change!

Suspension Strut is simple albeit the bolts can be sodding tight!

As linky... L322 Range Rover - How To Replace Air Springs - YouTube
 
Saint.V8 said:
There are two pumps on the diesel...on inside the tank and one outside the tank....both are simple enough to do...although the in tank pump can be fiddly....access is exactly same as written in my How To at the top of the Forum.

You can just replace the whole pump assembly for a couple of hundred or just the pump part itself for less than a ton.

Search the threads for a chap who did the process I did and used the Diesel Pump instead.....(infact just noticed it is this thread!!)

The external pump is mounted on the side of the Tank under an inspection hatch, and is much easier to change!

Suspension Strut is simple albeit the bolts can be sodding tight!

As linky... L322 Range Rover - How To Replace Air Springs - YouTube
Click to expand...

Thank you, I have just watched the Youtube vid and does seem fairly straight forward, I assume I can use my Hawkeye to depressurise the FL Airbag before jacking up and then deactivate the Air-suspension, is it just the case then of doing the same in reverse using Hawkeye to re-pressurise the bag?

Where is the "How To" section please I may be a little stressed and cannot see the obvious.

What is also the best way to diagnose which pump has failed, the sound seemed to becoming from the righthand side of the fuel tank.

Cheers for the reply

Daz
 
How to Linky.... http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f71/4-4-v8-bmw-tank-fuel-pump-replacement-200394.html

Remember that the pump is different for the Diesel.....read back on this thread as the guy did my procedure but substituted a Diesel Pump which he got from eblag for about £77.....

Not sure on how the Hawkeye works, but I do know it can't calibrate the EAS, but should be able to do most functions, although you can deflate the airbag thusly: L322 Range Rover - How To Depressurize Air Springs - YouTube

As for which pump...time to get lift the seats and see if you can hear either the In Tank Pump running or get under the car and hear if the other one is running.....don't have the diesel so couldn't really narrow it down for you other than to listen/feel which one is/isn't running!
 
i doubt the strut will need deflating if its got a leak in it.

just leave one of the doors open when working on the EAS, this will inhibit the system until you have done the work

strut changes are pretty easy, if you can get the rust nuts undone !

needs two people really to remove the old and refit the new to stop any snagging on the airline
 
2.0_hippo said:
i doubt the strut will need deflating if its got a leak in it.

just leave one of the doors open when working on the EAS, this will inhibit the system until you have done the work

strut changes are pretty easy, if you can get the rust nuts undone !

needs two people really to remove the old and refit the new to stop any snagging on the airline
Click to expand...


"Not sure on how the Hawkeye works, but I do know it can't calibrate the EAS"

Ok, im pretty sure i can do the strut, will i need to get the system recalibrated?

And if so will my mates Snap-On tool sort it?

Fuel pumps another matter, im going to have a go, do the rear seats just pull forward. I tried but they didn't move much in mine.

Cheers for your help so far gents.

Arh one more thing I forgot and this is weird, in the engine bay, if your facing it on the left by the ABS block thing you can here a very faint noise, it sounds like an alarm or a siren. Now im not going mad. The vehicle alarm works fine as it went off today. It would not open with the remote key and I had to open the car manually via the lock. Is this just playing up or could this ave anything to do with it?
 
Last edited:
SpackyChan said:
"Not sure on how the Hawkeye works, but I do know it can't calibrate the EAS"

Ok, im pretty sure i can do the strut, will i need to get the system recalibrated?

And if so will my mates Snap-On tool sort it?

Fuel pumps another matter, im going to have a go, do the rear seats just pull forward. I tried but they didn't move much in mine.

Cheers for your help so far gents.
Click to expand...
No need to recalibrate after fitting a new strut...

The rear seats should fold onto themselves, and then over again and tuck behind the front seats!

you will then need to remove the bars on the floor and lift the carpet up - follow the How To I linked (mine :D) and it will be detailed in there!
 
Hi Darrel,

The two fault codes you mention are the same two codes I had on my vehicle and, judging by you symptoms, I would suspect the in line fuel pump to be the culprit of your non starting issue. The pump is easy to get at to check whether it is running, being housed just in front of the NSR wheel underneath the car. It is accessed by removing the two M6 bolts ( 10mm socket or spanner) and hinging the fibreglass like cover panel out of the way. A replacement pump can be sourced on eBay for around £60, should a failed pump be your problem and can be fitted in about twenty minutes.

Can't help re your air suspension issues, but hope you get her running and make a good quick sale on eBay.
 
RSFH said:
Hi Darrel,

The two fault codes you mention are the same two codes I had on my vehicle and, judging by you symptoms, I would suspect the in line fuel pump to be the culprit of your non starting issue. The pump is easy to get at to check whether it is running, being housed just in front of the NSR wheel underneath the car. It is accessed by removing the two M6 bolts ( 10mm socket or spanner) and hinging the fibreglass like cover panel out of the way. A replacement pump can be sourced on eBay for around £60, should a failed pump be your problem and can be fitted in about twenty minutes.

Can't help re your air suspension issues, but hope you get her running and make a good quick sale on eBay.
Click to expand...


Great thanks,

Will I need to drain the tank to change?

Ok so went outside this morning, on her knees on LH side so airbag needs changing.

It started 1st time little hesitant but ok, then turned off and tried again no luck. So left ignition on and banged the inline fuel pump in front of NSR wheel, and it sprung back into life. Turned the key and again it started.

So both problems diagnosed in 24 hours.

Thank you so much guys.

Now just 2 more questions.

What about those weird noises?! They are concerning me.

And do you think the fuel pump would be connected with the kick down changing up issue, I forgot to say that I added another battery in the passenger foot well when it was doing this and when it was connected it changed up fine. As I say there are no fault codes with the transmission and it goes into sport and manual perfect.

Be prepared for more posts, mostly of me stressing!

Cheers guys for your help

Daz
 
Last edited:
When my pump started to fail it did cause the gearbox to hang on to gears and kicking down one or more gears at the slightest hill or impediment. This was due to insufficient fuelling causing a lack of power to pull the higher gears. Don't know if this is your problem, but you will find out once the pump is changed for a healthy one.

You don't need to drain the tank, but there will be fuel leakage, a steady drip, when you disconnected one end of the pump. Once the other end is disconnected it will start to run out, so my advice is get everything else freed off, disconnected etc, then pull off the tank end pipe and immediately put that pipe onto the new pump, then pull off the engine side pipe, discard the old pump and push that pipe onto the new pump. Your system should be sealed enough now allowing you to tighten the pipe clamps, reconnect the wiring plug and put the pump back into its mounts at your leisure. Have plenty of rags, absorbent paper or whatever to hand and a large drip tray to catch any spilled fuel.

Just so as you know, my lift pump and the inline pump failed within two weeks of each other, maybe that's a coincidence and hope you don't experience the same thing.

Good luck:))
 
Saint.V8 said:
Note:
That pump is for the Petrol model and this thread is for the Diesel...just incase any Diesel Owners reading this thread were thinking of ordering this pump!!
Click to expand...

thanks for pointing that out :)

was meant just as a site ref , as they do diesel varieties as well , which is what i bought , hindsight maybe should have used that example ;)
 
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