where exactly the relay should be added in as no place to fit in anymore. i have only 6 relays including flasher relay. by the way, my freelander is 2001 model.
 
I think we will have to wait till the biblical floods to get any reasonable clarification on this. I hate myself for being so gullible, rushing to get a 5 pin relay which is now idle in the house when i could have bought a few beers!!!
 
I have the answer to your problem but, quite frankly, I am currently sunning my self on a West Carntree beach and carnt be arsed to search for it and post. It is on LZ somewhere if yu can be bothered to look.
 
is it this that u mentioned about , mad hat man...:D but diagram for levelling wasnt explained though and need to add new wire for new relay. one thing i'm not sure that this precedure is applicable to freelander or not..
 
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Hi All
sorry for not getting back sooner, should be 4 pin instead of 5 pin, sorry about that. pins on relay should be numbered 85,86,87,30
86 to chassis earth
30 to +12v 20A fused feed
85 to +of main beam lamp
also run new earth wire from this bulb to chassis earth
87 to + of dipped beam bulb

relay does not mount into any place on fuse box, it it mounted onto inner wing and wires ran from there
PM me
 
i'm not good with electrical thingy. where i suppose to add relay;driver or passenger side? and which wires that i should connect ? here wire colour of driver side:
1) 2 x thick BLACK
2) 1 x thin BLACK
3) 1 x thick GREEN/WHITE
4) 1 x thick BLUE/BLACK
5) 1 x thick GREEN/BLUE
6) 2 x thin RED/ORANGE
7) 1 x thin BLUE/BLACK
 
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mount relay on drivers side, cant mind colours off by hand but if you take off the large round bulb cover you will see what colour of wires go to dipped and high beams. will not be solid blacks so either green/white, blue/black, or green/blue. will check over the next day or so with mine and let you know.
 
Hi, I have read through all the threads and posts about facelifting conversion ... but i have read a couple of points that have made me think twice?

These are:-

1) grinding the frame of the car to allow the new lamps to seat properly and
2) removing brackets etc ... to allow new bumper to fit flush, etc ...
3) the rear door, on mine it has curved bottom edges ... do the later models, or are they squared off? if i change to the new black plastic strip on the door, squaring the edges off, how strong are the actual edges?? assuming there would be a corner of just plastic?


I am an Electrical Engineer by trade, and not too phased by hands on ... but it's always good to hear from you lads with experience of actually doing the task in hand!!

I read somewhere that somebody was going to take photo's of the step by step procedure and put them onto disc?
I would like to see that !! So please drop me a line if you have done this :)

I would, failing that like to see photographs of the areas which need grinding - a before and after shot - as well as the areas behind the bumper that need removing, and adding on, etc ... Can anybody help?

Just wondering, but if you have to start grinding parts away, what will ensure the lamps seat properly?? Do they still pick-up on original fixings?? afterall, this is an MOT check...

What does this look like after the conversion is completed (grinded area) will it put off a future buyer of the vehicle?

I would love to start buying in the parts to do this, but unless I can make this work 100% perfect, and i mean flawless, lights sitting nicely with the wings, etc ... then it will be something i will leave well alone.

I have an 03 TD4 ES silver 55k Miles - really nice motor ... be a shame to f*** it up in a moment of madness :)

Any help and advice would be welcomed guys!!

Carl Tabs
 
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Well if you want my honest opinion I wouldn't go down this route. You'll only end up with a non standard example that will make it harder to sell and worth less. An ES with 55k is too good to be messin with, leave it well alone.
 
I know this is an old thread but it seems the best at explaining the facelift

Is anyone still supplying wiring diagrams and connectors?
 

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