T

The Pilgrim

Active Member
Gentlemen, reading posts regarding turbo, I tryed to move by hand the lever, but is stucked. Lots of wd40, no luck. At least yet.
Now the question: how did those of you which encountered this issue solved the problem?

Thank you for the knowledgeable answers.

Stefan
 
So the solution is taking out the turbo for inspection/ cleaning/ replacing? I was hoping it was only some rust on the linkage.
The perspective of IRD off and all the rest is encouraging..
Thank you for your time.
 
The Pilgrim said:
So the solution is taking out the turbo for inspection/ cleaning/ replacing? I was hoping it was only some rust on the linkage.
The perspective of IRD off and all the rest is encouraging..
Thank you for your time.
Click to expand...
The IRD doesn't need to come off to do the turbo.

It sounds like the vanes are sticking though, which can often be freed off, but sometimes a replacement turbo is needed.
 
Update. Turbo off, ird on!
Rotor is spining free, but has a small radial play. I assume it should be refurbished.
Not a problem with rust when dismantling bits. Got luck.
 
The Pilgrim said:
Update. Turbo off, ird on!
Rotor is spining free, but has a small radial play. I assume it should be refurbished.
Not a problem with rust when dismantling bits. Got luck.
Click to expand...
A small amount of play is acceptable as it runs on a film of oil, as long as the turbine hasn't scraped the outer wall it should be ok. I replaced mine with an exchange unit from Turbo Technics here in the uk & it had the same amount of play in it as the old one which had done 147,000 miles ! So unless the oil seals of gone or you know there is an issue with it I would probably leave it.
 
So, you suggest I dismantle it and try to clean and release the lever, instead of runing to a specialized shop?
I have a recomended guy, prices start from cca 110 pounds.
 
The Pilgrim said:
So, you suggest I dismantle it and try to clean and release the lever, instead of runing to a specialized shop?
I have a recomended guy, prices start from cca 110 pounds.
Click to expand...
It's hard to recommend what to do but If there's a specialist who can check it over, get the actuating lever unseized & give it the ok then I would probably re-fit it (I had mine checked over by the company I mentioned & they said "they would reinstall it" but I changed it just for peace of mind & the fact it's not the easiest of jobs to do without a lift to put the car on).
 
Allready started, everything out, looking good inside. A bit hard to open, but knoked around with a piece of aluminium finaly done.
Gaskets to come, pieces in bath for derusting. Hope the lever will free from chemical reaction.
 
Excellent news. Glad to hear you got it taken off okay. Hopefully the cleanup will free the vanes, and you can put it back together with the original cartridge in place.
 
Final update. Solved. At least at the ramp test. Actuator was replaced with original (Pierburg), at idle is working (unplug vacuum, lever goes at rest position). No smoke. Looking 4ward for road test.
 
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Good to hear that you got the turbo off and back on ok. And by the sounds of it, it has hopefully worked in solving the issue you were having.
 
Yes, you're right, looks ok now. It's pulling ok beyond 2000rpm.
But, (allways a but) there is a wroum sound around 2k rpm, when stepping harder, sometimes a whinning after 2k. It does'nt sound quite right, I do not have experience with the corect sound of a turbo, so cannot compare it. It is not a strong sound, I try to keep the revs in order to avoid it.
Should I expect a failure?
Thank you!
 
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