Have engine running when drilling and tapping that way pressure will hopefully blow any bits out, in reality a grease covered drill bit will most likely be as good.
 
If you know some one with Gas welding tackle & you can get a GRIP of the BROKEN stud you can get the broke bit CHEERY red & COOL down with water ! Shrinks stud & comes out no need to re tap !
 
Well boost ring test drives complete and have to say quite impressed, certainly pulls harder for longer in each gear.
 
yu dun both, or just ring?

Sorry for late reply just remembered this thread and had to search for it!
No only done boost ring as Im not convinced the boost pin is any better than just rotating the std pin and as the std pin has a much more gentle taper you dont get that load of black smoke at low revs when off boost and asking for power.
Im going to have to dial back the max fuel screw and the diaphragm as its now smoking more at low revs, the boost ring means it now revs much more like a modern diesel.
I think we have to be careful about black smoke as we dont want to give the anti 4x4 brigade any ammunition at all about all OLD land rovers.
 
We have a Boost ring coming in the post. looking forward to reporting back with results hopefully next week!
 
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Ah right, my mistake. I have the Advanced timing spacer coming, the one with genuine bosch seals. Looking forward to the extra horses.
 
I have a standard Bosch VE setup right now so it will be interesting to see just how much of a difference the spacer alone makes first before fitting a boost pin and then tweaking the pump.
 
I have a standard Bosch VE setup right now so it will be interesting to see just how much of a difference the spacer alone makes first before fitting a boost pin and then tweaking the pump.

I thought it was recommended to use either a pin or collar alone, rather than together and are designed to work best with the pump standard?
 
It is best to start with a standard pump, i'm not sure about having one or the other. I'm under the impression that both together would work, and then tweaking fueling afterwards would also help.
 
It is best to start with a standard pump, i'm not sure about having one or the other. I'm under the impression that both together would work, and then tweaking fueling afterwards would also help.

They work in different ways, using different physics, combining them works

My thoughts often bear little relation to reality o_O:D
 
Sorry for late reply just remembered this thread and had to search for it!
No only done boost ring as Im not convinced the boost pin is any better than just rotating the std pin and as the std pin has a much more gentle taper you dont get that load of black smoke at low revs when off boost and asking for power.
Im going to have to dial back the max fuel screw and the diaphragm as its now smoking more at low revs, the boost ring means it now revs much more like a modern diesel.
I think we have to be careful about black smoke as we dont want to give the anti 4x4 brigade any ammunition at all about all OLD land rovers.
I used a boost pin first, loads of black smoke but after I fitted the boost ring it all went. I've used 2 shims for a while now but might drop to 1. Very happy with it.
 
I used a boost pin first, loads of black smoke but after I fitted the boost ring it all went. I've used 2 shims for a while now but might drop to 1. Very happy with it.

Cheers Coffee. Just be careful not to go 'too advanced' with the timing, 'diesel clatter' is a sure sign of it...
 

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