The pin seems to most straight forward to start with. They are not actually a million miles from me, so my just drop in and discuss. Using the 90 everyday at the moment, so a few more horses would be nice.


I think you will find excess smoke is the main issue with the tuning pin as it pretty much allows full travel on the fuel pin with little to no boost, ie it will run rich (I know no such thing on a derv) and smoke at low rpm/high load situations.
 
Which means less economy I am guessing. Would all the tuning of the pump and actuator actually have the same results but in a different way, then?
 
Which means less economy I am guessing. Would all the tuning of the pump and actuator actually have the same results but in a different way, then?


Theres many ways to skin a cat
I think the 200 and 300 will take a light tune nicely ie bit of max fuel screw and maybe a 1/4 turn of the diaphragm add in upping the boost a little.
Its when you try and make proper power that the engines shortcomings come to light, ie its an ancient design and thats pretty much all there is to it.

Many people say how wonderful their tune is, but I would like to follow them on a dark night and see just how much smoke they are laying down!

Also worth bearing in mind the whole world seems to be going anti diesel at the minute and giving the antis any ammunition at all is a bad idea.
 
Fair point. As for ancient engines, I am used to my Mini A series and Rover V8, neither of which breath too well in the head department so it costs considerably more than the £50 odd quid price of the pin to release some power. I get your point about the excess diesel. I suppose it can always be just put back to standard with the old pin and plastic washer back in place.
 
Yes its easy to put back, but make damned sure you either mark the orignal position or document it somehow as you will forget, dont ask me how I know!
 
Aye, I know. Fortunately I have a mate who has a flow bench and another who has been grinding cylinder heads for years. I have yet to take the head off my current engine to see what, if any, porting has been done. If only the 8 port was cheaper, or the K1000 conversion....lose authenticity then though.
 
Aye, I know. Fortunately I have a mate who has a flow bench and another who has been grinding cylinder heads for years. I have yet to take the head off my current engine to see what, if any, porting has been done. If only the 8 port was cheaper, or the K1000 conversion....lose authenticity then though.

Put an Austin 1300 lump in then ... you'll have to squeeze the gearbox gubbins into the Mini box casing, but it will fit and goes like you stole it ....but on rails ...
 
I haven't heard of that option I don't think. The 1275 taken out to 1380 is my preferred one , but here again, until I take the head off I wont know what the bore is. I can't imagine a 1275 will still have a standard bore now. But you never know.
 
so fitted the boost controller this weekend... already have the boost pin and the boost ring which are the best £100 ever spent, but with the boost controller fitted I cannot find proper boost, or even any change in boost; just done some motorway miles and tried; fully closed (eventually) various positions about 1-3 mm space open, and then well open: all mean I max out at 70mph with no violent “here comes the boost” smiles or any difference in boost / speed. There is def some boost, as without it my speed falls under 70 on the hills on motorway, but I have a big 1500 mile trip this week and boostless ... any ideas? Is there a sweet spot I need to find? is there Any way you can tell without going for a drive? I live in a city centre so have to go a fair way to test boost!!?
 
so fitted the boost controller this weekend... already have the boost pin and the boost ring which are the best £100 ever spent, but with the boost controller fitted I cannot find proper boost, or even any change in boost; just done some motorway miles and tried; fully closed (eventually) various positions about 1-3 mm space open, and then well open: all mean I max out at 70mph with no violent “here comes the boost” smiles or any difference in boost / speed. There is def some boost, as without it my speed falls under 70 on the hills on motorway, but I have a big 1500 mile trip this week and boostless ... any ideas? Is there a sweet spot I need to find? is there Any way you can tell without going for a drive? I live in a city centre so have to go a fair way to test boost!!?

Sounds like was a couple of quid you could have saved ....
 
so fitted the boost controller this weekend... already have the boost pin and the boost ring which are the best £100 ever spent, but with the boost controller fitted I cannot find proper boost, or even any change in boost; just done some motorway miles and tried; fully closed (eventually) various positions about 1-3 mm space open, and then well open: all mean I max out at 70mph with no violent “here comes the boost” smiles or any difference in boost / speed. There is def some boost, as without it my speed falls under 70 on the hills on motorway, but I have a big 1500 mile trip this week and boostless ... any ideas? Is there a sweet spot I need to find? is there Any way you can tell without going for a drive? I live in a city centre so have to go a fair way to test boost!!?

What controller did you buy?
What engine?
 


Without reading the instructions I would guess you first need to find out your std bost at full chat then adjust the wastegate actuator then add the boost controller so you can switch it on for when you need the extra.
You can go silly mad with the boost but tbh the turbo wont get you much more than 18/20 psi ish and of course you now have the extra boost and you will also neeed the extra fuel to make use of the boost and get the power.

The biggest problemwith the 200 and the 300 is getting the extra power without chucking out shed loads of black smoke at lowish rpms and full throttle, you can get loads of grunt but the smoke is unreal.
Ive alays used thta as my bench mark for a quality tune, power and little to no smoke = somones put some effort into that, loads of smoke and all they have done is dosed the fueling to the max.
 
Without reading the instructions I would guess you first need to find out your std bost at full chat then adjust the wastegate actuator then add the boost controller so you can switch it on for when you need the extra.
You can go silly mad with the boost but tbh the turbo wont get you much more than 18/20 psi ish and of course you now have the extra boost and you will also neeed the extra fuel to make use of the boost and get the power.

The biggest problemwith the 200 and the 300 is getting the extra power without chucking out shed loads of black smoke at lowish rpms and full throttle, you can get loads of grunt but the smoke is unreal.
Ive alays used thta as my bench mark for a quality tune, power and little to no smoke = somones put some effort into that, loads of smoke and all they have done is dosed the fueling to the max.
That’s why I went with an uprated rebuilt pump from diesel Bobs along with reconditioned injectors and a hybrid turbo, set at 1.5bar running a powersmart IWG75 actuator, and alisport intercooler top speed with 37/12.5/16 tyres went from 55mph to 85mph on hills. Smokes slightly until warm then clean once warm.
 
Last edited:

Similar threads