blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
Black placky fing will be an EDC I speck.
That doesn't help at all.
Yourr welcome
Black placky fing will be an EDC I speck.
That doesn't help at all.
Yourr welcome
will post a pic later. I hope notBlack placky fing will be an EDC I speck.
That doesn't help at all.
Yourr welcome
as I gather you cant do this mod on an EDC. I cant find any electronic boxes.Good news is I have got the pin out. Bad news is instructions say mark diaphragm and plates for help in reassembly. Instructions dont say the plates are loose and therefore any marks are useless as they all move relative to the pin
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
will post a pic later. I hope not
Good news is I have got the pin out. Bad news is instructions say mark diaphragm and plates for help in reassembly. Instructions dont say the plates are loose and therefore any marks are useless as they all move relative to the pin
A bit like this?
exactly like that. I am surprised if mine is EDC as it is an M reg
@blue beasty - are you saying that is an EDC fuel pump?
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
exactly like that. I am surprised if mine is EDC as it is an M reg
I reckon yer ok then
the black thingy is summink for EGR
will give it a try
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
silly me... of course!!!! - i dooooNot if ya got throttle cable, nope
Well.... it seemed to go OK. not too much smoke until really pulling up a steep hill in 5th (I had to try) - changed down to 4th and it poootled up nicely..... this is a hill, I have always had to change down to 3rd to get up before, so I can safely say an improvement has been had.
Did notice my water overheat warning tripped in a couple of times on the way back, although temp gauge didnt move, but then again they are notorious for not moving and then scootling into the red. Something to watch, methinks.
Couple of pics to follow, however things to watch out for.....
1) The original pin may not just "lift out". sometimes it needs a bit of force to get the guide pin to jump over the lip on the bottom of the boost pin.
2) I found a variety of screws on the top, and they were TIGHT! flat bladed screwdriver, T30 & T20 bits required as well if you have the EGR fitting as mentioned above.
3) Marking the lid is useful, but not necessary. What is more important is verifying the orientation of the original pin to the top cover, before removal
4) I found that the guide pin inside the pump housing is at the front of the guide pin hole (see pic) and it is only necessary to ensure the new pin cut out is facing this way. All this marking seems to be unnecessary, as the diaphragm and washers can be in any position (they are round). There are small dots on the washers, but these can be any position, albeit the guides state to line the bottom one up with the cut out in the boost pin.
5) Make sure you mark the gearwheel at the bottom of the access area (see red dot on LHS) so that if it needs to be moved (for smoke adjustment) you have a reference point.
6) The plastic washer mentioned in the guide, but not shown, as at the top of the boost pin and loose.
7) Obvious point, but well worth remembering... ENSURE THE AREA IS KEPT SCRUPULOUSLY CLEAN.
Did notice my water overheat warning tripped in a couple of times on the way back, although temp gauge didnt move, but then again they are notorious for not moving and then scootling into the red. Something to watch, methinks.
Couple of pics to follow, however things to watch out for.....
1) The original pin may not just "lift out". sometimes it needs a bit of force to get the guide pin to jump over the lip on the bottom of the boost pin.
2) I found a variety of screws on the top, and they were TIGHT! flat bladed screwdriver, T30 & T20 bits required as well if you have the EGR fitting as mentioned above.
3) Marking the lid is useful, but not necessary. What is more important is verifying the orientation of the original pin to the top cover, before removal
4) I found that the guide pin inside the pump housing is at the front of the guide pin hole (see pic) and it is only necessary to ensure the new pin cut out is facing this way. All this marking seems to be unnecessary, as the diaphragm and washers can be in any position (they are round). There are small dots on the washers, but these can be any position, albeit the guides state to line the bottom one up with the cut out in the boost pin.
5) Make sure you mark the gearwheel at the bottom of the access area (see red dot on LHS) so that if it needs to be moved (for smoke adjustment) you have a reference point.
6) The plastic washer mentioned in the guide, but not shown, as at the top of the boost pin and loose.
7) Obvious point, but well worth remembering... ENSURE THE AREA IS KEPT SCRUPULOUSLY CLEAN.
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This might also help...
I have noticed that the exhaust is a bit sooty, so it might need to be "adjusted".
not sure which is best - wheel or max fuel screw?
not sure which is best - wheel or max fuel screw?
neilly
Well-Known Member
interesting, but maybe a bit to technical for what i need
neilly
Well-Known Member
interesting, but maybe a bit to technical for what i need
Maybe the antipodean may be more use to you , he has made a few of them.
Cheers
battenberg
Well-Known Member
for anyone who expressed an interest in the Madman EMS unit, they just released this update:
Madman Developments
Hey everyone, The first quarter of next year is going to be fun. We hope to release TWO new monitoring systems and new sensors. The first unit will be an upgraded colour version of our popular EMS2 unit maybe with added functions and the second is a new Bluetooth device.
The Bluetooth unit will be a hidden unit with your interface being your mobile phone. The unit will be autonomous and will work on its own, pairing up to your mobile phone will provide details of alarms, data display configuration and alot more.
If everything goes to plan, it will be able to fulfill a very wide range of applications, from luxury cars to 4x4s, fleet management, industrial, agricultural and earthmoving to marine applications. It will be fully upgradeable from a base unit to the fully functional flagship model.
We will also have new temperature and pressure senders for all applications.
I will post more information soon regarding a company restructuring move to allow for the time needed to create these new products.
Thank you all for your support.
Madman Developments
Hey everyone, The first quarter of next year is going to be fun. We hope to release TWO new monitoring systems and new sensors. The first unit will be an upgraded colour version of our popular EMS2 unit maybe with added functions and the second is a new Bluetooth device.
The Bluetooth unit will be a hidden unit with your interface being your mobile phone. The unit will be autonomous and will work on its own, pairing up to your mobile phone will provide details of alarms, data display configuration and alot more.
If everything goes to plan, it will be able to fulfill a very wide range of applications, from luxury cars to 4x4s, fleet management, industrial, agricultural and earthmoving to marine applications. It will be fully upgradeable from a base unit to the fully functional flagship model.
We will also have new temperature and pressure senders for all applications.
I will post more information soon regarding a company restructuring move to allow for the time needed to create these new products.
Thank you all for your support.
battenberg
Well-Known Member
keep us informed
no spam
For anyone interested, these Boost Pins are now in and available
Coffeelandy
Well-Known Member
Have you still got your egr fitted?
Coffeelandy
Well-Known Member
Can we get hold of the current version though?
battenberg
Well-Known Member
I dont think so
