Jonnymoore1970

Jonnymoore1970

Active Member
Hi guys
I’ve recently replaced the cam belt, oil pump water pump etc and I’m now having problems starting the car.

I thought the timing maybe out so started again . When the crank tool is locking the flywheel the cam pin slots straight into the left cam hole no problem although the right one is much tighter and has to be kinda forced at a slight angle. (These cams are connected by a chain right?)

I’m sure the timing is fine.
The car normally starts first turn of the key and sounds fine. Then switch it off and on again and it just cranks forever. I’ve unplugged by the valve at the top and fuel is ****ing out so not a fuel issue.
I’ve also replaced the cam sensor yesterday.

any ideas of where to start next. many thanks
 
It depends on the failure, it can be erratic only after it heats up a bit... for proper diagnose you should plug in a dedicated tester
 
Fit timing pins, all of them, then loosen the three small bolts on the cam pulleys (do not touch the large centre one!), retighten the three small bolts, turn engine couple of revs by hand, refit pins, all good?
See the slots in the pulleys? they are there because you are timing the pulley hub, not the pulley itself.

There are two cams per head, you only time one cam each side of the engine on the pins/belt, the other cam is driven inside the engine by chain.

Note the two timing pins and the slots in the pulleys

Screen Shot 2020-04-28 at 19.33.37.png
 
lynall said:
Fit timing pins, all of them, then loosen the three small bolts on the cam pulleys (do not touch the large centre one!), retighten the three small bolts, turn engine couple of revs by hand, refit pins, all good?
See the slots in the pulleys? they are there because you are timing the pulley hub, not the pulley itself.

There are two cams per head, you only time one cam each side of the engine on the pins/belt, the other cam is driven inside the engine by chain.plse

Note the two timing pins and the slots in the pulleys

View attachment 207374
Click to expand...

@lynall , hi mate

hope ur safe and well

may i ask please, when u slacken the small 3 x bolts are u supposed to move the cam wheels to the right by hand , or is that only before u fit the timing belt plse

many thks as always and hope u didn’t mind me asking
 
gstuart said:
@lynall , hi mate

hope ur safe and well

may i ask please, when u slacken the small 3 x bolts are u supposed to move the cam wheelS to the right , or is that only before u fit the timing belt

many thks as always and hope u didn’t mind me asking
Click to expand...

Gary, yes all good this end, hows life your end?

Ref the bolts it doesnt really matter so long as the pin is a nice snug fit, certain cars like the 200/300tdi is is worth the effort to get the pin in the middle of the slot, in case you want to tweak inj pump timing (advance it) in the future.
You can loosen bolts, then fit belt, then tension, or fit belt then slacken bolts to get belt to snug into the pulley grooves, then tighten.

If you youtube dti gauge bosch ve pump summat to watch?
This is meant to be more accurate than the pins themselves, not sure on that, but it has its uses, and I used it on a boat engine with bosch ve recently

The op is very nearly spot on, so his should be an easy fix/tweak.
Whether this little amount will cause his starting issue I have no idea?
 
lynall said:
Gary, yes all good this end, hows life your end?

Ref the bolts it doesnt really matter so long as the pin is a nice snug fit, certain cars like the 200/300tdi is is worth the effort to get the pin in the middle of the slot, in case you want to tweak inj pump timing (advance it) in the future.
You can loosen bolts, then fit belt, then tension, or fit belt then slacken bolts to get belt to snug into the pulley grooves, then tighten.

If you youtube dti gauge bosch ve pump summat to watch?
This is meant to be more accurate than the pins themselves, not sure on that, but it has its uses, and I used it on a boat engine with bosch ve recently

The op is very nearly spot on, so his should be an easy fix/tweak.
Whether this little amount will cause his starting issue I have no idea?
Click to expand...

bless u and many thks as always

indeed have watched too many utube videos, alas it’s also working out which ones age correct so tend to watch several of the same topic to see the consensus, lol

saw a few comments on the d3 forum ref timing and how they have to be really accurate with these or they spit there dummy out

Good to hear all is well buddy , I’ve been going through the mill, joint pain and high temperature , many visits of gp etc etc , same old story , lol

ps, been really pleased with the yuasa battery , lasted around 6 x weeks and was just at 12.58 Vdc before putting it back on the ctek, ,

stay safe and well
 
My Yuasa good so far, I am sure my 5 mile commute will kill it in the end, especially now as I literally do not go anyewhere else to give it a run, but has enspired more confidence than the Exide pos.

Chin up and all that, you have two options, give up and wither away, or plug away no matter what, mainly so we can still take the psis out of you, and everyone else for that matter:D
 
lynall said:
Fit timing pins, all of them, then loosen the three small bolts on the cam pulleys (do not touch the large centre one!), retighten the three small bolts, turn engine couple of revs by hand, refit pins, all good?
See the slots in the pulleys? they are there because you are timing the pulley hub, not the pulley itself.

There are two cams per head, you only time one cam each side of the engine on the pins/belt, the other cam is driven inside the engine by chain.

Note the two timing pins and the slots in the pulleys

View attachment 207374
Click to expand...
Hi mate
Just looking at your photo I see the left pulley you have the pin at the 6oclock position and the right one around 7. Mine is more like 5oclock and 7 o’clock. Also your drill bits don’t seem to be in very far. how far do they have to go in exactly?
 

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gstuart said:
hi @Jonnymoore1970

great work there mate

hope u don’t mind me asking please, did u use genuine Dayco timing belts / tensioners and genuine oil pump cover please

did u find the rear belt hard to do

many thks
Click to expand...
Hi
I haven’t done the rear belt yet as it isn’t timed on the D3.
I used a Gates kit. Initially I used a Maitings oil pump and it leaked from the crank seal, then I used a genuine LR seal on the same pump and it still leaked.
Finally I did what I should have done at the start and bought a Fomoco pump. No problems at all.
 
Jonnymoore1970 said:
Hi mate
Just looking at your photo I see the left pulley you have the pin at the 6oclock position and the right one around 7. Mine is more like 5oclock and 7 o’clock. Also your drill bits don’t seem to be in very far. how far do they have to go in exactly?
Click to expand...

I have no idea?
I checked the date for the pic and it was December 2014, so I cannot remember, wont be long and I will have to do them again!
If you look at the my pic and especially the pulleys they look kind of weird, so I wodner if it is a camera trick of the eye type thing?
 
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