Lets hope so!
Lets hope so!
Jonnymoore1970
Active Member
Update.
Today I have triple checked the timing. The left cam as you look at it the pin slots straight in. The right cam will also go all the way in but at a slight angle. With both cams locked the crank locking tool slots in perfectly. While all locked up I undid the 3 bolts on each can sprocket and also undid the Tensioner. Then redid the Tensioners and tightened the sprocket bolts. Hand cranked the engine 4 times and everything line up exactly as before.
I put the car back together and she fired up first time......switched it off and on again and no start .
at this point I plugged it in to a basic code reader and came up with PO341-00 cam sensor.
sometimes the car will start and drives normally with no smoke and all the power. Other times it will just crank.
I’ve driven the car for 10 miles after clearing all errors and no no errors are stored . Every time the car doesn’t start it will store the same PO341-00.
NO OTHER CODES APART FROM ONE TIME OUT OF 20 C1A00-88.
new battery
New crank sensor.
Battery and alternator both working normally.
any advice from here guys?
Thanks
Today I have triple checked the timing. The left cam as you look at it the pin slots straight in. The right cam will also go all the way in but at a slight angle. With both cams locked the crank locking tool slots in perfectly. While all locked up I undid the 3 bolts on each can sprocket and also undid the Tensioner. Then redid the Tensioners and tightened the sprocket bolts. Hand cranked the engine 4 times and everything line up exactly as before.
I put the car back together and she fired up first time......switched it off and on again and no start .
at this point I plugged it in to a basic code reader and came up with PO341-00 cam sensor.
sometimes the car will start and drives normally with no smoke and all the power. Other times it will just crank.
I’ve driven the car for 10 miles after clearing all errors and no no errors are stored . Every time the car doesn’t start it will store the same PO341-00.
NO OTHER CODES APART FROM ONE TIME OUT OF 20 C1A00-88.
new battery
New crank sensor.
Battery and alternator both working normally.
any advice from here guys?
Thanks
johnlad
Well-Known Member
Either a better tester or try a cam sensor or wiring to sensor
I would not blame the cam sensor itself just yet, especially if the fault was not there before, either you have damaged the sensor and or the wiring, or the timing is still not correct, especially as you said the timing pin is going in at an angle?
Long time since I did mine, but would not be happy with a timing lock pin ay an angle, is the hole itself clear? ie undamaged.
Maybe join the D3 forum, and ask if anyone near you has the iid tool, and would be willing to plug it in for you?
I have not checked but it might show live data for the cam and crank sensors?
I have fcuked/broken many vehicles/repairs in my time, and one thing I do remember is an old guy telling me, if it worked before and now it doesnt, something you have done has messed it up, even if it seems totally unrelated, and he has been proven right many many times!
Long time since I did mine, but would not be happy with a timing lock pin ay an angle, is the hole itself clear? ie undamaged.
Maybe join the D3 forum, and ask if anyone near you has the iid tool, and would be willing to plug it in for you?
I have not checked but it might show live data for the cam and crank sensors?
I have fcuked/broken many vehicles/repairs in my time, and one thing I do remember is an old guy telling me, if it worked before and now it doesnt, something you have done has messed it up, even if it seems totally unrelated, and he has been proven right many many times!
Jonnymoore1970
Active Member
Thanks Lynall. The right cam was a **** to locate the pin in the first instance . When I sat at an angle I mean literally a couple of degrees. And it will go in all the way, but I do need to twist and wiggle it out. The left one just falls in.
Unfortunately I don’t know anyone with an I’d tool.
I’m guessing that there’s a dodgy wire related to the cam sensor somewhere..
the car was fine before so yeah it’s definitely something that I’ve done.
Unfortunately I don’t know anyone with an I’d tool.
I’m guessing that there’s a dodgy wire related to the cam sensor somewhere..
the car was fine before so yeah it’s definitely something that I’ve done.
I know you must be sick of stripping it down by now! but maybe insert all pins, loosen 3 pulley bolts on the side with timing pin on the angle, turn large nut in the centre knatts cock one way or the other until pin is square, and nip up the 3 bolts, let go of centre nut and tighten the three bolts, try timing pin again.
johnlad
Well-Known Member
Just found this- engine would start sometimes other times not, cam sensor fault showing but the remedy was-
Yes, i solved it. The timing belt and oil pump was changed by previous mechanic and he did a mistake. The crankshaft front bolt wasnt tightened enough ant pulley had small freeplay which caused wrong timing. Finally unbolted all timing bolts resetted the timing pins and tightened up to specs. I was happy that pistons didnt catch valves etc.
Full Thread-https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/please-help-camshaft-sensor-fault-82544-15.html
Yes, i solved it. The timing belt and oil pump was changed by previous mechanic and he did a mistake. The crankshaft front bolt wasnt tightened enough ant pulley had small freeplay which caused wrong timing. Finally unbolted all timing bolts resetted the timing pins and tightened up to specs. I was happy that pistons didnt catch valves etc.
Full Thread-https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/please-help-camshaft-sensor-fault-82544-15.html
Last edited:
Jonnymoore1970
Active Member
Brilliant. Thanks Johnlad, Lynall and Gstuart. excellent suggestions that I wouldn’t have thought of.
the fact the timing pin is slightly on the **** really doesn’t sit right with me, Also I did round off the crank nut with a 12 sided socket, so maybe that isn’t tight enough..... Ill replace that first and torque to spec.
the fact the timing pin is slightly on the **** really doesn’t sit right with me, Also I did round off the crank nut with a 12 sided socket, so maybe that isn’t tight enough..... Ill replace that first and torque to spec.
12 point/bi hex sockets are the work of the devil, only needed to match certain fixing heads, the reat of the time 6 point is the way to go.
Jonnymoore1970
Active Member
Agreed
Jonnymoore1970
Active Member
Anyone know the torque spec on the crank bolt?
johnlad
Well-Known Member
T.A.F ain’t it.
think that also say f******g tight , lol
Jonnymoore1970
Active Member
FIXED.
So today I stripped it down yet again. (I reckon I could do this blindfolded)
With the flywheel locked and the os cam locked and the ns locked (but on the ****) I undid the 3 bolts on the cam pulley and then just moved the main cam bolt very slightly (felt like a couple of degrees) until the pin was in straight. Then tightened up. And torqued the tensioner.
Then while all 3 locked removers the crank bolt replaced it with another new one and torqued to spec.
refitted the motor and started on the button each time. Went for a 20 mile drive, no issues and no codes .
many thanks to you guys for your excellent advise.
So today I stripped it down yet again. (I reckon I could do this blindfolded)
With the flywheel locked and the os cam locked and the ns locked (but on the ****) I undid the 3 bolts on the cam pulley and then just moved the main cam bolt very slightly (felt like a couple of degrees) until the pin was in straight. Then tightened up. And torqued the tensioner.
Then while all 3 locked removers the crank bolt replaced it with another new one and torqued to spec.
refitted the motor and started on the button each time. Went for a 20 mile drive, no issues and no codes .
many thanks to you guys for your excellent advise.
Free fixes are always the best, even if they were a pita whilst they wrere going on!
