Datatek said:

Not all cars have exactly those numbers but a good place to start if things have been played with.

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modelman said:

It had to happen I suppose, playing with Nanocom just now, I think I f****d up bigtime.
Whilst in the EDC mode, checking the fuel modulation at operating temp I had a reading of 86%, engine running, not a million miles out I believe.
So, ah, whats this? Timing solenoid, whats that do then? pressed it & the engine revs went up, oooh, dont like that, press it again to go back, no difference! OK, ill press this, ELAB valve, engine stopped dead, pressed again, but no, no way could I go back to the beginning. Went back through all the menus to start again, but now it wont communicate with the engine ECU or the BECM!!
Have I finally managed to have my 2.5 ton paperweight after all????

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pwood999 said:

They are the defaults in the Nanocom emulator !! As the Nanocom guide says, peeps should take a note of all settings, plus as you said never change anything you don't understand. They are really intended for programming a replacement ECU to match the old one.

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Flossie said:

12mm cranked deep ring spanner makes the fip nuts a doddle to loosen/tighten. I had to take the viscous fan off on mine to get the engine temperature up on a freezing cold day. Driving it wasn't an option, no mot, tax or insurance.

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modelman said:

I think this P38 is out to 'get' me!!
Was about to turn the car around to get ready for the pump modulation reset thingy, put the key in & the dash told me the keyfob battery was low, went to start anyway, everything on the dash dimmed & very sloooow crank then click!!
EH? battery voltage 14.3, keyfob well over 6v, changed them anyway, no difference.
14+ volts to fusebox & starter, good continuity from batt neg to chassis etc.
Locks & unlocks perfect, all lights ok, but no horn?? Added a second battery plus a jump-starter, no difference, seems like a duff
connection somewhere, yes??

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modelman said:

Thanks for that, I have some similar, so I get them red hot & crank them a lot more, yes??

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modelman said:

I think this P38 is out to 'get' me!!
Was about to turn the car around to get ready for the pump modulation reset thingy, put the key in & the dash told me the keyfob battery was low, went to start anyway, everything on the dash dimmed & very sloooow crank then click!!
EH? battery voltage 14.3, keyfob well over 6v, changed them anyway, no difference.
14+ volts to fusebox & starter, good continuity from batt neg to chassis etc.
Locks & unlocks perfect, all lights ok, but no horn?? Added a second battery plus a jump-starter, no difference, seems like a duff
connection somewhere, yes??

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Datatek said:

If your DVM is showing 14+ volts when the engine is not running, then it's not a lot of good.

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kermit_rr said:

how can the car battery be 14v+ if the engine isnt running? this is a charging value

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Flossie said:

25mm gap between the steel rules.View attachment 324728

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modelman said:

2 mins ago, car hasn't been running for 6 hours.

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Datatek said:

So your DVM is inaccurate and not to be trusted.

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modelman said:

OK, but this is my old-ready charged Passat battery just now, so I don't think its far out.

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Datatek said:

In that case there is something very odd about your battery.

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