Flossie
Well-Known Member
Yes. Metric 12mm?
Yes 12mm it is, I assume the manifold still has to be removed??
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Or maybe he fitted a 24 volt one
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Yes, memory is fading but I had to remove or slacken off some sort of steady bracket on the back of the pump, other end of the bracket is down by the oil filter somewhere. Seem to recall having to disconnect a multiplug somewhere down there too. All straightforward stuff.
You will drop at least one manifold nut which will never be found again.
Nuts are m8 standard thread, I suspect originally they took a 12mm spanner ,some of mine were 12, some 13, I replaced them all with m8 13mm af flange nuts. Watch you don't crush a leak off pipe when refitting the manifold.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Or crush the injector 4 wires.
Well it looks like you guys have come up trumps yet again with the correct answer regarding the battery1
On a good quality charger all night, showed 100% this morning, on the car, slow turnover followed by a click.
Took it round the corner to the auto-store, drop-test .....FAIL!!
Contacted the supplier as its only 16 months into its 4 year warranty, & they are sending a replacement, RESULT!
Thanks again.
On a good quality charger all night, showed 100% this morning, on the car, slow turnover followed by a click.
Took it round the corner to the auto-store, drop-test .....FAIL!!
Contacted the supplier as its only 16 months into its 4 year warranty, & they are sending a replacement, RESULT!
Thanks again.
Attachments
Datatek
Well-Known Member
And fully charge the new battery before fitting it.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
14.4 to 14.8 volts immediately after starting is what you should be looking at. I have USB chargers fitted to mine that have built in DVM to I can keep an eye on things.
Whilst awaiting replacement battery due Monday, I noticed white battery powder in the battery box mount holes, nothing under the battery so it must have been there for ever, anyway, I removed the box after pulling the engine ecu & other stuff, to wash everything in that area.
I noticed a computer type plug spiced into the loom, it doesn't look factory to me, any ideas!!
I noticed a computer type plug spiced into the loom, it doesn't look factory to me, any ideas!!
Attachments
Datatek
Well-Known Member
May be to do with Hot Start Fix that has since been removed?
Flossie
Well-Known Member
I believe its to trick the engine into thinking its cold to put the glows on to aid hot starts. Sorting the modulation will fix that. Pull it all out and junk it.
Isn't it amazing just what a few of them 'volt' things & a little bit of 'lektrickery' can do, new battery early this morning, charged for 7 hours, fitted, turned key & its running before I could let go of the key, been getting many various electrical probs of late, locking & unlocking randomly, rear boot button not working, then it did, everything 'seems' to be fully working again, I can even access
EVERYTHING on the Nonocom now. There was always something it failed to communicate with before.
The faults it finds are, 'failure to communicate with L/H seat, but everything on the seat works perfect.
R/H blend motor short circuit. ( I have all 3 spare ready to fit )
Fuel modulation 84% ( next job )
I have difficulty with the gear-selector, I adjusted it as per manual, but it sometimes requires a bit of a 'shuffle' to engage correctly.
EVERYTHING on the Nonocom now. There was always something it failed to communicate with before.
The faults it finds are, 'failure to communicate with L/H seat, but everything on the seat works perfect.
R/H blend motor short circuit. ( I have all 3 spare ready to fit )
Fuel modulation 84% ( next job )
I have difficulty with the gear-selector, I adjusted it as per manual, but it sometimes requires a bit of a 'shuffle' to engage correctly.
+1.. or at least i did
Just managed to 'do' the Datatek fuel-modulation fix, got it to measure between 49.2 & 50.4, ticking over, warm, is that acceptable?
Also, whilst the manifold is off, I can see that the dash-switch mod ( presumably a hot-start fix ) goes to the foremost of the 2 temp senders in the head, so now the fuel modulation is correct ( I hope ) is it ok to remove the wiring mod & set it back to original??
Also, whilst the manifold is off, I can see that the dash-switch mod ( presumably a hot-start fix ) goes to the foremost of the 2 temp senders in the head, so now the fuel modulation is correct ( I hope ) is it ok to remove the wiring mod & set it back to original??
