To ADVANCE the timing move the top of the pump TOWARDS the engine.
To RETARD the timing move the top of the pump AWAY FROM the engine.
I can't imagine what I was thinking about.
It is the OTHER WAY ROUND!
ADVANCE injection timing by moving the top of the pump AWAY from the engine ...
Retard the timing by moving the top of the pump TOWARDS the engine.
Sorry ... senior moment ... again.
Suprised Slob didn't pick that up, as it would have been a great opportunity to shout at me!
CharlesY
To RETARD the timing move the top of the pump AWAY FROM the engine.
I can't imagine what I was thinking about.
It is the OTHER WAY ROUND!
ADVANCE injection timing by moving the top of the pump AWAY from the engine ...
Retard the timing by moving the top of the pump TOWARDS the engine.
Sorry ... senior moment ... again.
Suprised Slob didn't pick that up, as it would have been a great opportunity to shout at me!
CharlesY
Alane
New Member
The only times I ever notice how slow my N/A is, is on the motorway. Around town I have no probs but I've resigned myself to the fact that I'll never leave lane 1 on motorways.
I don't really care I just slip in behind a lorry and stay there.
We have a very long, steep hill on the M20 up Wrotham hill and I could probably get about 50 at a push, but I rather plod up at 30 behind a lorry than pull out into lane 2 and cause traffic problems.
Ade
I don't really care I just slip in behind a lorry and stay there.
We have a very long, steep hill on the M20 up Wrotham hill and I could probably get about 50 at a push, but I rather plod up at 30 behind a lorry than pull out into lane 2 and cause traffic problems.
Ade
ah wasn't in the mood fer a snooze so i dint read your post
you still here? thought you been holidaying with donk, doing some brown laneing
Inspired by this thread, and the fact my 2.5 N/A lump is lacking a few horse's - I'm going to tinker with my pump timing.
Having not done it before, could you please tell which bolts I'm loosening?
Thanks
Before you do anything else scribe good marks either side of the joint between then pump flange and the casing, so you can get back to NOW if anything slips!
FIRST, loosen the injector pipe nuts at the bottom and. ONLY the actual nuts around the injector pipes - not the banjo nuts nearer the pump. They only need to be slackened a little. Half a turn is probably enough.
Second, check at that same end of the pump for the REAR BRACKET, which will have a long bolt through it. Loosen that bolt and nut a little.
Third, there are three nuts on the studs passing through the pump flange. When you loosen them the pump should rotate quite easily. If any force is required, STOP, and find out why. You can turn the pump either way.
Moving the TOP of the pump AWAY from the engine ADVANCES the injection timing.
Moving the TOP of the pump TOWARDS the engine RETARDS the timing.
VERY SMALL adjustments, like 1 or 2 mm difference on your scribe marks can make a serious difference to the performance.
Your best setting is probably about 1mm back from the point when loud diesel clatter is heard when you deck it. Don't run the engine when it clatters loudly.
You may need to adjust a few times to get it right, but it is worth the effort.
CharlesY
Gofish
New Member
Ok, all done.
Should I be able to turn the pump by hand?
As, I had to give a couple of taps with the hammer to move a couple of mm.
Not noticed much difference so far.
Although I retarded it rather than advance it - as I thought there was a clatter at higher revs.
I think I'll advance it next time.
Should I be able to turn the pump by hand?
As, I had to give a couple of taps with the hammer to move a couple of mm.
Not noticed much difference so far.
Although I retarded it rather than advance it - as I thought there was a clatter at higher revs.
I think I'll advance it next time.
Ok, all done.
Should I be able to turn the pump by hand?
As, I had to give a couple of taps with the hammer to move a couple of mm.
Not noticed much difference so far.
Although I retarded it rather than advance it - as I thought there was a clatter at higher revs.
I think I'll advance it next time.
OK, well done you!
Yes, a slight bump with a soft mallet is fine. Best not to use a steel hammer though, in case it cracks the casing.
I suggest you do it again but this time you set it the same amount to the other side, the advance side.
You may be hearing normal diesel engine noise - the undesirable clatter is really distinct, and you may not have heard it yet.
Keep advancing little by little, and I think you will notice the difference.
Note that there is only so far you can do this before the flange studs stop you doing it any more.
In the 15 J LandRover 2.5 Sherpa engine it is usual deliberately to mis-time the pump on the belt by one tooth ADVANCED, and then probably to back off the pump a little when fine tuning. The same trick might apply to some Landy engines.
CharlesY
Gofish
New Member
Thanks Charles.
Actually, I just been out in the truck ( weekly shop) to Newquay, that involves me driving out of Mawgan Porth - a bugger of a hill that I only just get up in 3rd. Hay... this time I popped it into 3rd way before I normally do, and it was actually PULLING up the hill !!!!!
BLOODY FANTASTIC.
So, it looks like retarding the pump was the way to go, and that's with my first adjustment.
Also noticed the throttle response was a lot better too, but the biggest improvement in the 3rd gear. Top end still appears to be about the same, so I may retard it a mm at a time, and see how it goes.
If I retard it too much will I still get the 'clatter' if/when I go to far?
Thanks Again.... By far the best tip to improve my landy I have had.
Actually, I just been out in the truck ( weekly shop) to Newquay, that involves me driving out of Mawgan Porth - a bugger of a hill that I only just get up in 3rd. Hay... this time I popped it into 3rd way before I normally do, and it was actually PULLING up the hill !!!!!
BLOODY FANTASTIC.
So, it looks like retarding the pump was the way to go, and that's with my first adjustment.
Also noticed the throttle response was a lot better too, but the biggest improvement in the 3rd gear. Top end still appears to be about the same, so I may retard it a mm at a time, and see how it goes.
If I retard it too much will I still get the 'clatter' if/when I go to far?
Thanks Again.... By far the best tip to improve my landy I have had.
Slob, if all the turnips are gone why you still here........??
Not had time to do the timing this weekend, have just discovered though that I have the Sherpa engine in mine, take it this was the same as the Landy 2.5 except that the timing cover and belt are different?
The Sherpa engine is called a 15J, and uses a DIFFERENT TIMING BELT from the others, that has 124 teeth on the belt. Beware of that.
The Sherpa engine was also rated a little higher bhp than the LandRover version, I think about 75 bhp to the Sherpa against 67 to the Landy which is a full TEN percent.
Your injection pump also sits much higher up, a good idea.
This engine has a flat steel cover on the front, under the separate water pump, and this plate can be removed, and the belt changed, without taking off the water pump. Discomania and I did this three weeks ago to his one after the belt snapped and mangled 5 pushrods. The crankshaft pulley still needs to come off.
There is a round hole low down on the cover - a small stone can slip in there which could duff up the belt. A small piece of duct tape over the hole is a good plan.
Don't go deep wading with this type of engine, as the belt and pulleys will get flooded, which is probably a very bad plan.
CharlesY
GREAT!
Which way did you bump the pump? Top TOWARDS the engine, or away from it?
Remember top speed (top REVS actually) is controlled by the governor inside the pump, but you CAN increase the setting a little from the outside without doing a lot of harm. Just let the throttle arm lever go further towards full throttle by adjusting throttle-stop top-end lock-screw.
I think you will find the engine revs are limited to 4,400 rpm max in the Sherpa version, but only 4,200 in the Landy version. Sherpa engines are OK! More power and more revs.
.
You could add about 400 to that without wrecking anything, and that would add about 10% to your top speed if you wanted Mach One. Best not adjust max revs without a tacho though. Borrow a reed tacho if possible, or leave well alone!
Good fun getting a bit of free ooomph, huh?
CharlesY
Which way did you bump the pump? Top TOWARDS the engine, or away from it?
Remember top speed (top REVS actually) is controlled by the governor inside the pump, but you CAN increase the setting a little from the outside without doing a lot of harm. Just let the throttle arm lever go further towards full throttle by adjusting throttle-stop top-end lock-screw.
I think you will find the engine revs are limited to 4,400 rpm max in the Sherpa version, but only 4,200 in the Landy version. Sherpa engines are OK! More power and more revs.
.
You could add about 400 to that without wrecking anything, and that would add about 10% to your top speed if you wanted Mach One. Best not adjust max revs without a tacho though. Borrow a reed tacho if possible, or leave well alone!
Good fun getting a bit of free ooomph, huh?
CharlesY
