As some of you know I have just fitted a 2.5NA in place of the 2.25 diesel lump..


Now, maybe i was hoping for miracles but the 2.5 seems just as lifeless as the 2.25, any thoughts?
Have to say i am running 285/80 X 16's so i know that the hills could be a prob, but I have noticed no difference at all in performance compared to the 2.25.....

Is this normal?.

If not what should I be looking for, engine sounds and starts OK, burns a bit of black sooty smoke, nothing at all drastic, think they all do that esp under load..

Sounds about right, after all its the same lump just a tiny wee bit bigger about 220CC!

Cheers for the reply Lazy....

Guess it was the answer I was expecting, just wanted to put my mind at rest..









Anyone know how to fit a turbo????................

1. Remove injun






















2. fit 200TDI compleate with turbo

LOL..........

Think I have had enough of removing/refitting engines for this year.....


Next job MOT. Took it for a pre MOT, only failed on stupid things, so pretty pleased.

Have you got an over dirve?

They help!

No overdrive, think the oversize tyres do an overdrive job, esp as they have a bigger rolling circumfrence than a 750x16..

OD would be an option if I put the 600x16's back on for road work and keep the bigger ones for pay and play...

But an overdrive will set you back about £270 for not much more you can fit a proper injun.

It is set up correctly is it?
Silly question maybe but i managed to squeeze a bit more from my 2 1/4 just from adjusting the ign timing correctly

Yer wheels is too big for definite

yup them wheels have just got to be too big. Surprised if you're not dropping into low ratio to get up hills

She is holding 45 ish on hills, but the steeper ones down to 30ish...

Daft question maybe, but how do you do the timing on a 2.5?? Petrol lumps for me are no prob, but diesels, driven the bloody things all me life and still do not know how to time em....

Need the tools to lock the flywheel, cam pulley and the injection pump to do the timing.

Those tyres - you're serious about 'em being 285/80/16 ? Only they're feckin' massive mate! IIRC your car would have been fitted with (assuming its an 88") 205/80/16's as standard - rolling diameter of 28.5 inches - yer new ones are almost bang on 34 inches.

I got a noticeable difference going from stock to 32's on my 200tdi defender - so you're going to see a huge difference!

Lastly - how do you know what speed yer doing now you've changed yer rolling diameter? Yer speedo will be out by close to 20% with the new tyres on it - so 30 would be closer to 36 and 45 is going to be a lot closer to 53.

What will it show driving it hard downhill?

Cheers,

To be fair the speedo dont seem that far out, use a sat nav to get true speed, at 50 speedo is showing apx 55, but the needle is all over the place anyway.... Yeah i let my heart rule my head when i got em Have got a set of 600x16's i should use for road use, and just put the bigguns on lane days etc...


Any diagrams floating about on timing etc?

You got a Haynes or do you want a loan of my spare one?

Speak to Discomania about his Defender with a 15J Sherpa motor.

You should be able to get plenty good poke from it if you do the timing exactly right, but this takes time time time and trial and error.

Basically you will need to ADVANCE the pump timing a degree or so day after day until it gets to the point of making a real diesel clatter when you deck the gas pedal. At that point back the pump off a degree and bolt it up solid. It should JUST not clatter with the pedal to the metal.

Job done.

These engine will hoick out 70+ bhp (real ones, not the mealy-mouthed DIN ones) forever, sustained, from now until either Hell freezes or the timing belt snaps.

When you adjust the timing, you MUST slacken all 4 injector pipes at the pump and the injectors, and to ADVANCE the timing you looses the three pump nuts, and move the TOP of the pump TOWARDS the engine a tiny bit, let's say about 2 mm at a time.

Discomania's 90 runs like a sweetie.

Of course if your filters are clogged or the pump is full of gunge .....

Try it!

CharlesY

She does seem to clatter at higher revs, so maybe reduce the timing a wee bit???? ie pump AWAY from the engine?

i would assume that if all the timing marks line up on cogs etc, then it can ONLY be the pump that is out?


On petrols we used to leave the engine running, put a strobe light on the crank pully marks, slacken dissy and adjust... now that was easy.

Mine will hoick up a fairly steep hill on the motorway and not drop below 65mph.

Its a good engine, pulls VERY well from low down, I can stay in a highish gear a lot, and keeps up with the traffic perfectly well, as CharlesY says take a look at the timing.

Do all your filters too if your not sure about them.

Filters are new, well the oil one is, air is still the series oil bath one....
Fuel filter is new.

Will have a play with the timing, fingers crossed...

Good lad ....

Remember, FIRST blast on clear timing marks NOW before you undo anything!
These will be YOUR timing marks.
Scribe good marks on the pump flange and the timing cover casing so you can always get back to where you are now. That's the worst it can get.

You do NOT need to pin the pump, lock the flywheel or any of that stuff for this job. You only need to do that when timing the pump from "first principles" and you are not doing that. You are "fine tuning" the timing, and that is a process that is NEVER undertaken by the engine makers or service dealers. They don't care about you, their fitters don't have the skills, and they won't be driving the cars, so why would they bother?

They just set all engines to fixed marks, and send them out. This means that some will be OK, some a bit better, and some really lousy. They just don't care.

But you have the time, the inclination and the incentive ..... so GO ! You might be amazed how well you can get your motor running if you sort the timing out exactly right for YOUR engine.

After you have marked the pump and casing, sort out the spanners you will need. Carry them with you in a wee bag.

Every time you make any adjustment, you will be rotating the whole injection pump about 1 to 2 mm on the flange one way or the other. Try to move it in small steps about that much each time.

You MUST loosen all 4 injector pipes at BOTH ENDS, just enough to let the pipes move a tad, and then loosen the three pump flange nuts just enough to let the pump move. There may also be a longer nut and bolt to loosen at the bracket to the rear of the pump. DO NOT loosen any more than you need to. Move the pump as required, and it should move easily. Check the marks are now 1 to 2mm apart, and clamp the three pump flange nuts snugly. Don't over-tighten them. Now nip up the injection pipes at the bottom end, and whirl the motor over on the starter till fuel spits at each injector pipe end. Tighten at the injector pipes. Start up, and test drive.

When the engine is warm, deck the pedal at low revs and you will know instantly if the clatter is cured. If it is, you will probably find that the engine goes a lot better than before. If it still clatters, it will be less, so repeat the adjustment. The nearer you get to "feeling good", make smaller moves of the pump.

To ADVANCE the timing move the top of the pump TOWARDS the engine.
To RETARD the timing move the top of the pump AWAY FROM the engine.

If the engine clatters loudly when you deck the pedal, RETARD the timing a little. ONE move of 2mm could easily be enough to do it.

Basically, what you want is the engine timing set JUST before the clatter starts, by the smallest amount. Generally that will be the best setting for power and economy, and many of you may be pleasantly surprised at the outcome if you try this. It might just take you half a dozen sessions, small moves at a time, but it will be worth it.

How about you rush out and do this and let us all know how it pans out?

CharlesY