^^^ is the actual ad - £6.75 free postage.
Can get ‘same’ one £17.99 looking around

Rubberknees said:
That looks like it was very fiddly to get fingers round it to separate. Make sure none of the cables get trapped putting everything back
Click to expand...
There is a bracket behind the beam that it unclips off can get to it easy then. I’ve done all drivers side connections clean and clipped in nice. Instrument cluster is back in too all bulbs work.
 
kermit_rr said:
If only you could test the amp rating of a fuse!
I've got a bag full but no idea what size they are
Click to expand...
I can test the current rating, I have a lab power supply with adjustable current, just wind the current up until the fuse blows and you then know the current rating:rolleyes:
If the fuses are standard blade type car fuses, they are often colour coded for the current rating.:D
 
Datatek said:
I can test the current rating, I have a lab power supply with adjustable current, just wind the current up until the fuse blows and you then know the current rating:rolleyes:
If the fuses are standard blade type car fuses, they are often colour coded for the current rating.:D
Click to expand...
they are colour coded, even impressed with a number eg 5A 10A etc!! but the filament on the 5A looks the same as on the one marked 30A :eek: so I don't trust them
 
kermit_rr said:
they are colour coded, even impressed with a number eg 5A 10A etc!! but the filament on the 5A looks the same as on the one marked 30A :eek: so I don't trust them
Click to expand...
The filament will often look the same but will be made of a different material. They have to be fairly solid to withstand the vibration and heating/cooling conditions in a car.
 
Datatek said:
The filament will often look the same but will be made of a different material. They have to be fairly solid to withstand the vibration and heating/cooling conditions in a car.
Click to expand...
the ones in my fusebox are all different shape/thickness.
doesn't help i bought cheapo ebay specials, thats probably the real reason I dont trust them
 
Every connection checked in the dash, bumper sensors cleaned reconnected, both fuses are sound.
Dash back together...

Only difference is now the SRS lights blink brighter than ever :(

Note : if you take your glovebox out make sure you refit the ‘open’ switch mechanism first
If not, the screws to get to it are inside and you will lock yourself out permanently. Like I did :rolleyes:
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Every connection checked in the dash, bumper sensors cleaned reconnected, both fuses are sound.
Dash back together...

Only difference is now the SRS lights blink brighter than ever :(

Note : if you take your glovebox out make sure you refit the ‘open’ switch mechanism first
If not, the screws to get to it are inside and you will lock yourself out permanently. Like I did :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Some SRS faults cannot be cleared without diagnostics including one that can come up with a battery disconnect.
 
wheres here?
i didnt know the SRS lamp was supposed to blink?
When testing SRS MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) lamps we are only looking to see if the lamp indicates if there is a fault with the system. If no lamp is present or it doesn’t illuminate then it can’t indicate a system fault, so it can’t be failed. Some vehicles may also incorporate warning messages on dash board displays; these are in addition to any MIL lamps and should not be used as a reason for rejection.
https://mattersoftesting.blog.gov.uk/common-mistakes-made-by-mot-testers/
 
That’s why there’s 2 bulbs in there - to blink, If one bulb goes causes SRS fault is common and why I checked.

says airbag fault on dash but it’s not a fail?
It may be overridden with 35mph max if I reconnect my EAS ecu I’m not sure
 
Last edited:
would the srs bit not connect, regardless? its not part of the engine section
take both bulbs out? no light, no fail?
 
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