Just started having a very similar problem. Started the car the other day and had no throttle response in either D or R. Restarted the car and all was fine. Sitting in traffic, throttle wouldn't boost off, but raised very, very slowly. Again, a quick restart seemed to cure.

I have contact cleaner and have had several corrosion issues in the car already, I've given a few plugs a spray, which ones exactly relate to what I need to look for?

Thanks all.

The round one under the manifold connecting the injection pump to the harness.
 
Thanks, I had a look this morning, it's the one that's a right sod to get off without removing the manifold right?
 
Have given this a bash, am still having issues. If I shift to p or n, it will rev normally again and work correctly when back to d. Should I be looking at the loom connected to the pedal perhaps or could this be something else?
 
Have given this a bash, am still having issues. If I shift to p or n, it will rev normally again and work correctly when back to d. Should I be looking at the loom connected to the pedal perhaps or could this be something else?

Well if that is the case the only thing that moves doing that is the XYZ switch. Think i would be looking at that. It does signal the engine ECU what position it is in. Bad wiper connection on that would be favourite.
 
Well if that is the case the only thing that moves doing that is the XYZ switch. Think i would be looking at that. It does signal the engine ECU what position it is in. Bad wiper connection on that would be favourite.

Genuinely thank you wammers. No probs now. Without you guys and your frankly ridiculous knowledge of these fine machines, I would be bloody lost.

I do have one more question for you, as I don't trust frankly some of the nonsense garages will tell me.

Should I remap the BECM to gain more torque at the low end as I do a lot of city driving? Seems a pretty obvious choice to me and it would do less work/turbo boosting and prob better economy, just not sure how she'd hold up/potential side effects.

Once more, no one has to help us, especially the less experienced, but I for one am eternally grateful. Helped me turn her back into a beast I love and not a £2000 scrap heap.
 
As Alan says you chip the engine ECU. Only way to get more power and torque is to increase fuelling. So if you use the extra available all the time you WILL use more fuel, specially if you like traffic light drag racing. You will get a bit back above 50 MPH on a run in torque lock because of the more linear map.
 
I don't know about the newer models but to chip the older ones you have to desolder the chip and replace it with a new programmed chip. There is a guy near Heathrow who knows them inside out and can do it for you.
 
I don't know about the newer models but to chip the older ones you have to desolder the chip and replace it with a new programmed chip. There is a guy near Heathrow who knows them inside out and can do it for you.

Does he have a chip shop? :D:D:D
 
Use the plug an play box easy to do and work well gave mine a lot more torque for pulling tin tent, turns it in to a hole new beast.
 
Use the plug an play box easy to do and work well gave mine a lot more torque for pulling tin tent, turns it in to a hole new beast.

That is the problem with chipping the diesels. Not much of a problem light, but with the extra torque towing does not agree with the sprag clutches in the gearbox. Specially whilst in torque lock above 50.
 
Use the plug an play box easy to do and work well gave mine a lot more torque for pulling tin tent, turns it in to a hole new beast.

Power box? That works differently. I know everyone on here swears by them but I'm still a bit dubious.
 
I try and forget that episode middle of Hounslow train station junction, peddle hit the floor bugger! but garage fixed it.
 

Similar threads