boguing

boguing

Well-Known Member
Full Member
I'm spending nearly as much on oil as I am on petrol, so the time has come...

I'm after a few bits of advice please.

a) Is there anything special about the SIII (1980) petrol engine that I should know before using the standard SIII parts book to order bits? Internally only, external bits are all good.

b) Anyone offering a good deal on a full kit of o/size pistons etc, full bearing set, gaskets, seals - most importantly genuine, OEM or known good quality? (I've had a falling out with shop4parts so need to start again with a trusted supplier - nothing to do with parts or service, just their bookkeeping).
 
Thanks James, it'll be out tomorrow and stripped on Thursday so I'll know which it is then. Also should have said I'm assuming that since it's painted blue it's not the original anyway.
 
I'm actually looking forward to this one! Not just for itself but to get me into engine building mode again - I have a cam chain to do on an Alfa V6 (precautionary) and trying to decide how far to go with the Jag V12 now that I've actually got a bellhousing being made.
 
boguing said:
I'm actually looking forward to this one! Not just for itself but to get me into engine building mode again - I have a cam chain to do on an Alfa V6 (precautionary) and trying to decide how far to go with the Jag V12 now that I've actually got a bellhousing being made.
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How i wish I could do things like that - but at 77 it's probably a bit late to learn? However, if anyone knows the whereabouts of a 1984 5-bearing 2.25 petrol engine, I fancy returning my 109 ex-military to original. The diesel engine is very good - if you're smoker! - and pulls like a train but the old girl really ought to have her original petrol engine back. I don't know if they were the same on military and civilian models?
 
Old Seadog said:
How i wish I could do things like that - but at 77 it's probably a bit late to learn? However, if anyone knows the whereabouts of a 1984 5-bearing 2.25 petrol engine, I fancy returning my 109 ex-military to original. The diesel engine is very good - if you're smoker! - and pulls like a train but the old girl really ought to have her original petrol engine back. I don't know if they were the same on military and civilian models?
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basically the same engine but front cover differed
 
jamesmartin said:
have you tried hobson industries
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Nice bunch, I bought a set of new take-off tubeless Defender wheels from them. I see that they're in your neck of the woods James, what's their place like? Huge and full of ex mil stuff?
 
boguing said:
Nice bunch, I bought a set of new take-off tubeless Defender wheels from them. I see that they're in your neck of the woods James, what's their place like? Huge and full of ex mil stuff?
Click to expand...
i used to run the engineering shop there, it was and probably still is
 
Re-assembly time. I'm using the green official manual and wondering if any more modern sealing compounds have replaced its advice. Crankshaft seal - fit with silicon grease on its ends and the journal. Seal retainer, nothing on the faces, Hylomar in the seal recess. Anything on the top or sides of the rear main bearing cap? Core plugs, a careful bit of RTV? Sump, use the gasket or RTV? Anything on the gaskets on the front?

One thing I haven't seen before is some pitting one the inlet valve seats, and they're generally filthy with carbon. Guides weren't awful (but I've changed them anyway) so I don't think they were wobbling and so not sealing, could be bad adjustment and not closing, didn't check but can't see any real burning. Web suggest water but the gasket was fine, dunno the history more than 1,000 miles back, but I cleaned the tank out and there was no water there, so I don't think so.
 
boguing said:
Re-assembly time. I'm using the green official manual and wondering if any more modern sealing compounds have replaced its advice. Crankshaft seal - fit with silicon grease on its ends and the journal. Seal retainer, nothing on the faces, Hylomar in the seal recess. Anything on the top or sides of the rear main bearing cap? Core plugs, a careful bit of RTV? Sump, use the gasket or RTV? Anything on the gaskets on the front?

One thing I haven't seen before is some pitting one the inlet valve seats, and they're generally filthy with carbon. Guides weren't awful (but I've changed them anyway) so I don't think they were wobbling and so not sealing, could be bad adjustment and not closing, didn't check but can't see any real burning. Web suggest water but the gasket was fine, dunno the history more than 1,000 miles back, but I cleaned the tank out and there was no water there, so I don't think so.
Click to expand...

Water could just be from condensation if the engine has been on short runs and sat around a lot.
 
Turboman said:
Water could just be from condensation if the engine has been on short runs and sat around a lot.
Click to expand...
That's a good thought. I do know that it was dry stored under the last ownership (long time) but short runs are reasonably likely, given that it shows quite low mileage.
 
Right, valve seats ground, lapped and lovely.

Cam bearings in, after two cock ups. Using a 3/4" drive socket and bar as a drift, no matter how gently and carefully, is not guaranteed to get the things lined up (#1). Turning up a 150 x 50mm nylon bar with a rebate for the shell and winding it in with a threaded rod isn't much of a winner either. It looked straight.... #2). Machined rebate on a 700 x 50 x 3mm tube, absolute doddle, and I think probably better than the ones with the cone to hold them straight.

However, just got the little ends out of their packing to find that they're white metal. The official green wshop manual says to ream them? So why the white metal? Pressed them in and they definitely need it, no way the pins will go in. Now these are split bushes, and I can see that it would be possible to remove metal from the gap before pressing them in and by repeatedly taking them out, opening a little, refitting you could get the right clearance - but surely not? At this point I need to hit the 'serious advice needed' button. @jamesmartin ?
 
boguing said:
Right, valve seats ground, lapped and lovely.

Cam bearings in, after two cock ups. Using a 3/4" drive socket and bar as a drift, no matter how gently and carefully, is not guaranteed to get the things lined up (#1). Turning up a 150 x 50mm nylon bar with a rebate for the shell and winding it in with a threaded rod isn't much of a winner either. It looked straight.... #2). Machined rebate on a 700 x 50 x 3mm tube, absolute doddle, and I think probably better than the ones with the cone to hold them straight.

However, just got the little ends out of their packing to find that they're white metal. The official green wshop manual says to ream them? So why the white metal? Pressed them in and they definitely need it, no way the pins will go in. Now these are split bushes, and I can see that it would be possible to remove metal from the gap before pressing them in and by repeatedly taking them out, opening a little, refitting you could get the right clearance - but surely not? At this point I need to hit the 'serious advice needed' button. @jamesmartin ?
Click to expand...
they are a fit once bearing and should be to size once fitted if they dont theyve distorted during fitting or are poor bearings, i used to just fit the bearings with a jigsaw split and not the straight split
ETC8442.jpg
 
Hi James, many thanks.

I only checked one before deciding that it was best to leave the workshop.... it was about 0.04mm too tight from memory and I'd guess that you're right - operator error.

Right, a new set ordered and this time I'll do it properly. (Heat/cold/push old one out with new and an old pin inside just to be sure).
 
Not having a lot of luck here. I got another set of bushes and pressed as follows:-

Reamed tight ones to take the pins and pressed them out by three or four mm

Put the pin into a new bush and pressed the old out pushed by the new. All definitely square and they pressed through smoothly and without much pressure.

Getting the pin out needed help.

A new pin will engage, but is too tight.

Does anyone recognise this new bush as a sized to fit? Otherwise the reamer's coming out.

ljnDdqwldmlfyw_5aJo9Kk6q5-lRwqZCPFGHt2qTWsYVqKa7ifTTrE9OMRWLqtnu730g5shgm-Tz8mRdu2Odv9Jqx935Fvhl5eZPAR_QE_KDBRPRGSAFO8VQg_A69t19bRfxec_XyWN2xEbMDu1ueZQn-KboG42WR6uiYzVoRJhVe0rE7PMkqOC4XVyYAD2SVflPpdCSJoWfhvT5nwQRX9HWXhQ9ypcf_0yoZM-mDZ8dYwhSwOWUDldvEPnVDqVf_1syw6kUIhOxmn_yt5jmn2NYjb9Dq-xfFnOcGOxW1MeD7ZUw8FkuPZZ56fXinuUJKdQN6_ersQVD_lnzOJLoiVDeWFn6NfquVdXE4AU2CJi9ZNFrbXX8f7iNAyb1JI-UitBWT-7Slo2Upwm1SCePt71Oro0sp5YfYUK1TCF_XRgHwrfeZIsazKLjY_EcwOkaCcBE1fffsxhtEWAHIcASoneoTdZrMhJVnDYV3-eGaH5C2LL0S1yN7xWY94Y3jbHdf5efTuhQiapIJW_lTIxP2Fs_u76opdzg-Bew7GQIt1yqm_NLOTOuINtHfJFXOp7y8Mg2zKs2Gk6HPydLxQC4ManEnX-7zx8GvKgTcxy1UntrwwC-3ozJ1XhgMjBzf_KShNr_UAxC9_DKXMJ4QM2tC3vZFoYgJ5g=w569-h758-no
 
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