landykyle

New Member
Hi, i have a 1997 p38 dse auto with around 123000 miles on.

I'm having problems getting key no.1 to work.

Key no.2 works with no faults at all.

I bought a pair of brand new duracel batteries and placed in the hand set. re-sync'd as per the hand book with no luck, engine disabled on dash.

I also noticed that when i first but batteries in the fob only the lock button would make the red light illuminated but only for a couple of presses and then nothing at all. if i leave the batteries out for a while it will flash the red light but again only a couple of times.

Any ideas would be great as i dont want to have something happen to key 2 and be completely stuffed.

please see youtube link to a short video i did 'trying' to demonstrate this.

Problematic range rover fob - YouTube

thanks
 
Bad battery connection lift tabs very carefully and slightly they will flash with battery's out just using up stored power good luck make sure battery's are the right way around and try not to touch them with your fingers
 
ok, tried lifting the tabs, no better.

Tried cleaning batteries and putting back in with a piece of kithen roll so i didnt get my greasey fingers on them, no better.

here is another vid, if i press the lock button and twist the batteries in it lights up but no if i press the unlock button.

Problematic range rover fob 2 - YouTube
 
I had similar with one of my P38 fobs....the push buttons on the circuit board in the fob were fecked and coming away from the board... I could get it to work if I bent the key (like breaking a stick) and pressing the button but in the end it just gave up completely. and I resorted to just using the key in the door lock!
 
problem is it would start the engine unless i unlock with the other key first. just says engine disabled otherwise i wouldn't mind as a spare :)

Can they be repaired?

Also that emergency code thing, i cant find my code in my handbook so where could i obtain this from?

thanks
 
I had similar with one of my P38 fobs....the push buttons on the circuit board in the fob were fecked and coming away from the board... I could get it to work if I bent the key (like breaking a stick) and pressing the button but in the end it just gave up completely. and I resorted to just using the key in the door lock!

Cheers saint was going to get to that bit :)

Op there has been a thread on eBay referb chat with the poster same on flea bay I think :D
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/p38-key-fob-refurb-220444.html
 
sounds like a goer then. will let you know how i get on, will be next week now before i get it done.

thanks for all your help so far :)
 
problem is it would start the engine unless i unlock with the other key first. just says engine disabled otherwise i wouldn't mind as a spare :)

Can they be repaired?

Also that emergency code thing, i cant find my code in my handbook so where could i obtain this from?

thanks
The Secuity System on the P38 is very good....heres the trick to getting you fob with non-functioning buttons to work the engine...

Unlock the car with the working fob using the button - but lock the car using the mechanical key by turning the key to LOCK only ONCE....twice will superlock the car!

You will now be able to unlock and start the car using the mechanical key of the non-functioning fob....

The system is such that if you superlock using a fob button, you will either have to unlock using a fob button or enter the EKA code to remobilise the car....if you lock the car using the mechanical key, you can open the car using the mechanical key and the engine is mobilised....
 
Eka from a dealer with your log book its free, providing you've not had the becm and ecu changed otherwise your buggerd
 
Saint dont think super locking changes any other function other than extra locks for the doors.
Oh it does....trust me....

Superlocking is more invasive than you think, time to read your copy of RAVE and the handbook more closely :D

EDIT: As attached....if a Fob Superlocked vehicle is unlocked using the mechanical key the EKA code must be entered first....if you lock on the key you can unlock on the key a drive away...how do I know this, cos when the fobs on my DSE starting playing silly buggers this is how I ran the car for 4 months!
 

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Oh it does....trust me....

Superlocking is more invasive than you think, time to read your copy of RAVE and the handbook more closely :D

Thought I had , personally I never use it , no fob no starting car anyways unneeded IMO and a nightmares when it goes wrong I will have another refresh :)
 
Oh it does....trust me....

Superlocking is more invasive than you think, time to read your copy of RAVE and the handbook more closely :D

EDIT: As attached....if a Fob Superlocked vehicle is unlocked using the mechanical key the EKA code must be entered first....if you lock on the key you can unlock on the key a drive away...how do I know this, cos when the fobs on my DSE starting playing silly buggers this is how I ran the car for 4 months!

Can you explain this then?
224FE9E4-8794-467B-ADED-E261C278A608-4521-0000031EE63E40A2.jpg


The only differance by super locking is.....
Extra locks that cannot be opens from inside and volumetric protection !!!

If you haven't got a working fob however its locked immobilisation ( always ) is activated , appart from slam locking and a non working fob means you have to enter eka to re- immobilise !!!!
 
The Secuity System on the P38 is very good....heres the trick to getting you fob with non-functioning buttons to work the engine...

Unlock the car with the working fob using the button - but lock the car using the mechanical key by turning the key to LOCK only ONCE....twice will superlock the car!

You will now be able to unlock and start the car using the mechanical key of the non-functioning fob....

The system is such that if you superlock using a fob button, you will either have to unlock using a fob button or enter the EKA code to remobilise the car....if you lock the car using the mechanical key, you can open the car using the mechanical key and the engine is mobilised....
Tbh I don't get none of this if you have a working fob why would you **** about with the non working fob key???
 
I'm not ****ing about with a non working fob, I'm trying to get it working as its my only spare and should key two fail I will be up **** creak with no paddle ;)
 
I'm not ****ing about with a non working fob, I'm trying to get it working as its my only spare and should key two fail I will be up **** creak with no paddle ;)

Yes I know that but the explanation early is if one works what as you have said both don't! Eka time as I said you can get it free from your dealer with your log book.ps my last comment is aimed at saint not you that's what the quote is used for :)
 

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