Foxyred
Well-Known Member
spot on !
can you post a picture of the engine as it should be a 200 even though the guy says its a 300 my 94 is a 200
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
maybe and centralise the latch theres 2 x10mm bolts under the slam panel hold it secure it can be moved if bolts are slckened
Thats defo a 300tdi, as you can hear the blowing noise you should be able to feel it with your hand.
Looks like there is some copper grease in where the bonnet bit goes into the hole. (i've got these technical terms sorted already..... )
Ill have a look at the latch thingy and feel where its blowing. ta.
Ive been underneath and found that the rear joint on the front prop shaft is loose. The other 3 joints are solid from what I can tell.
See this video.
Im assuming that definitely needs replacing but my question is, am i able to drive it a few miles to a garage with it like that?
(or is that joint replacement doable myself?)
Also here's some other photos underneath. I think the track rods aren't bent. Well the metal rods that go between the wheels looked ok to me.
One of the spares that came with the landy is an exhaust rubber mount thing. But I had a good wiggle of the exhaust and it felt solid as a rock. :-\
Is this lower bar a track rod?
What are those rods at the edge running to the back axle?
Ill have a look at the latch thingy and feel where its blowing. ta.
Ive been underneath and found that the rear joint on the front prop shaft is loose. The other 3 joints are solid from what I can tell.
See this video.
Im assuming that definitely needs replacing but my question is, am i able to drive it a few miles to a garage with it like that?
(or is that joint replacement doable myself?)
Also here's some other photos underneath. I think the track rods aren't bent. Well the metal rods that go between the wheels looked ok to me.
One of the spares that came with the landy is an exhaust rubber mount thing. But I had a good wiggle of the exhaust and it felt solid as a rock. :-\
Is this lower bar a track rod?
What are those rods at the edge running to the back axle?
tottot
Well-Known Member
I think that most here would agree that a Defender 200/300 is a great vehicle to learn self maintenance on. By today's standard it is a simple machine and much can be sorted with basic tools that are not costly.Over a life time one can save a fortune in garage costs. Plus today this forum is here to help.
Thanks. Im learning alot from here!
Ive just been watching videos on how to do it. It doesnt look massively hard but im guessing the hardest bit will be removing the prop shaft.
Ive just priced up the bits I need and tools and thought would I be better just buying a new Propshaft? They are like 60 quid. (plus bolts/nuts)
Do they come with the UJs and the mounts? On the pictures on the shop websites it looks like they do.
If so I think ill go down that route then I know both sides will be sorted for a while.
The front bar is called a drag link, the one that goes from wheel to wheel is a track rod, I note you have a new pas box drop arm which is good news as the ball joint is bit of a toss to change.
The rear arms from the chassis to the axle are torsion arms, the front ones are the same but known in land rover speak as hockey sticks.
I've made a few notes in bold. You'll have to 'click to expand'
Thanks !
Right so I need to order a prop shaft but looking on paddocks and places like that why are some propshafts like 300 quid ? Are they carbon graphite or something ? :/
Edit: worked it out. They are for different Land Rovers or those fancy wide angle jobbies.
So I've narrowed it down to these 2. Is there any diff or should I just get thr cheaper one ?
- http://www.paddockspares.com/frc8386-front-propshaft.html
- http://www.paddockspares.com/frc8390-front-propshaft.html
Also can anyone recommend a torque wrench that does the job but doesn't break the bank. The injector job is 25nm and the prop shaft is 33nm I think the video said.
Watching a video on the head gasket job , looks like that's slightly out of my ability at the moment I reckon so that will have to go in with the full service. How much roughly am I looking at for a full service and head gasket replace ?
Right so I need to order a prop shaft but looking on paddocks and places like that why are some propshafts like 300 quid ? Are they carbon graphite or something ? :/
Edit: worked it out. They are for different Land Rovers or those fancy wide angle jobbies.
So I've narrowed it down to these 2. Is there any diff or should I just get thr cheaper one ?
- http://www.paddockspares.com/frc8386-front-propshaft.html
- http://www.paddockspares.com/frc8390-front-propshaft.html
Also can anyone recommend a torque wrench that does the job but doesn't break the bank. The injector job is 25nm and the prop shaft is 33nm I think the video said.
Watching a video on the head gasket job , looks like that's slightly out of my ability at the moment I reckon so that will have to go in with the full service. How much roughly am I looking at for a full service and head gasket replace ?
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Different part nos for both them props, second one says its for a defender
Tbh the only thing I use a torque wrench for on the land rovers is the head bolts, the rest is just common sense, 25 and 33nm isnt a lot at all and not many of the 1/2 inch wrench will go down to that figure.
But if you do get one a cheap teng/halfords will be more than adequate.
Ta. Ordered that second one yesterday. My vin number is just below its top end of the range. And ordered a tacklife 3/8 wrench so hopefully that does that job.
Whilst underneath yesterday I got a good look at the frame and it's pretty rusty. Not to a point where there is holes through it or anything so is do I just sand / wire brush it down and paint hammerite paint on rust on it?
I've read people having the frame removed and blasted and stuff but I can't afford anything like that currently so I'll just have to do what I can afford to get as much life that's left out of the landy as I can.
Whilst underneath yesterday I got a good look at the frame and it's pretty rusty. Not to a point where there is holes through it or anything so is do I just sand / wire brush it down and paint hammerite paint on rust on it?
I've read people having the frame removed and blasted and stuff but I can't afford anything like that currently so I'll just have to do what I can afford to get as much life that's left out of the landy as I can.
tottot
Well-Known Member
Do not bother with hammerite,the stuff today is rubbish,remove as much loose rust and crud as you can and use Dinitrol [or similar ] to cover chassis.It is important to spray the inside of chassis rails [ plenty of openings to aim a gun through ] to slow any rust in there.It is often the case that the worst rust starts from within.
A portable compressor to do these jobs will not cost a lot if you do not have access to one
A portable compressor to do these jobs will not cost a lot if you do not have access to one
