tottot said:
Do not bother with hammerite,the stuff today is rubbish,remove as much loose rust and crud as you can and use Dinitrol [or similar ] to cover chassis.It is important to spray the inside of chassis rails [ plenty of openings to aim a gun through ] to slow any rust in there.It is often the case that the worst rust starts from within.
A portable compressor to do these jobs will not cost a lot if you do not have access to one
Click to expand...
Thanks. I'll have a look into that.

I've spoke to the garage and he wants to have a look before doing head gasket as he said the head will need skimming or something and that's a massive job :( .

But before I can get it to him I need to do me propshaft, that should be here Wednesday though.

Other thing is injector washers. They should be here tomorow so can I preparw now by taking the pipes off and remove the injectors tonight or is that a bad idea. Leaving them out for a day?
 
Injectors out wont hurt at all, but its a simple job so leave them until you have the parts.
Ive done several head gaskets on tdis and never skimmed one, Iirc some of the tdi heads arent meant to be skimmed?
Head bolts can be used up to 5 times, so potentially its quite an easy job with minimal spend
 
Your Land Rover looks to be a factory 300tdi, which didn't come out until 1994, your Land Rover was first registered in August 1993. Your VIN tag on the pedal box also looks messed with, I would get someone who knows what they are looking at to check the I.D. numbers before you spend too much money on it.
It only came to the IOM in 2010, I would try and find out what its UK reg no used to be and see if it has some history over there.
What is the engine number like and the stamped VIN?
I think there is a chance that you have a ringer.
 
Rougharse Racing said:
Your Land Rover looks to be a factory 300tdi, which didn't come out until 1994, your Land Rover was first registered in August 1993. Your VIN tag on the pedal box also looks messed with, I would get someone who knows what they are looking at to check the I.D. numbers before you spend too much money on it.
It only came to the IOM in 2010, I would try and find out what its UK reg no used to be and see if it has some history over there.
What is the engine number like and the stamped VIN?
I think there is a chance that you have a ringer.
Click to expand...
Oh great. :(
Where is the Vin tag on the pedal box?
When you say "someone who knows what they are looking at" is that just a garage or a specialist Land rover person?
Vin label in the engine and the number on the frame in front of drivers front wheel match (which was under a ton of rusty crap). Including the last 3 numbers. Dont know if that means anything?

vin.jpg
vin2.jpg
 
I was out just before wire brushing the prop shaft bolts and nuts down to make it easier to remove hopefully (where the joint is loose the two bolts either side have been dented inwards!!), when I wire brushed some rusty bits elsewhere.
This bit seemed quite thin so i pushed it and it went straight through the front bit :(
Its the cross frame section that is behind the passenger wheel. The same bit behind the drivers wheel looks nearly as bad.

What are my options with a hole in the frame ?

20180514_203454.jpg
 
Peat76 said:
I was out just before wire brushing the prop shaft bolts and nuts down to make it easier to remove hopefully (where the joint is loose the two bolts either side have been dented inwards!!), when I wire brushed some rusty bits elsewhere.
This bit seemed quite thin so i pushed it and it went straight through the front bit :(
Its the cross frame section that is behind the passenger wheel. The same bit behind the drivers wheel looks nearly as bad.

What are my options with a hole in the frame ?

View attachment 148998
Click to expand...

can you weld?
 
Peat76 said:
Nope. If getting someone to weld it is an option I will be happy with that. I was worried something like that would mean put the landy in the bin
Click to expand...

nope they can be brought as replaced as a complete unit, its called the outrigger - look up YRM metals, they have them.
 
Peat76 said:
Nope. If getting someone to weld it is an option I will be happy with that. I was worried something like that would mean put the landy in the bin
Click to expand...
Nothing means that on a landrover. Everything can be repaired on one of these if you have the time, patience and funds. The outrigger you have pictured is a very common place for these to rust and are easily bought as a replacement parts and given to someone who can weld to fit it. I had replaced all 4 on mine before I fitted a galv chassis.
 
Thanks. I'll look into that after it's been to garage for him to say about the head gasket.

Is the landy driveable with the outrigger in that state ? Garage is about 15 miles away.
Could I stick some speed tape on it or something to hold it together till I can get it replaced ?

Also if I go down th replace the outrigger route can it be done with the vehicle intact like it doesn't need stripping down to the chassis or anything ?
 
Last edited:
About 5 posts up is the pic. The post that ends with me saying what are my options.
I wud post again but am on phone and haven't got the pic on my phone
 
Anyone know how to get this window winder handle off? My Haynes manual says pop the cap in the middle but there isn't a cap.
20180515_201922.jpg
 
Peat76 said:
Is the landy driveable with the outrigger in that state ? Garage is about 15 miles away.
Could I stick some speed tape on it or something to hold it together till I can get it replaced ?

Also if I go down th replace the outrigger route can it be done with the vehicle intact like it doesn't need stripping down to the chassis or anything ?
Click to expand...

It is drivable like that, so I wouldn’t worry too much. It would be an mot failure so will need addressing sooner rather than later. Other than welding a patch on nothing else is going to hold it together so I wouldn’t worry about it too much. I have driveonea with chassis in far worse condition. I have no idea where mine got its mot from when I bought it with 12months ticket. Have virtually no rear crossmember and two of the outriggers were worse than yours!
To replace it you don’t need to strip it down to the chassis, it is not a huge job in the grand scheme of Land Rover jobs. I think it can be done by just removing the floor panel but it has been a long time since I did mine.
 
Do not think you need to replace the whole outrigger,just cut out the rot and weld in a new piece. Do not stick a patch on top as this would encourage more rusting,
 
dag019 said:
Not

not Land Rover specific but ones without a cap normally have a collar or clip behind them which pulls out to release. Usually in the opposite side to the handle.

E.g. link
Click to expand...
Aye found that clip and pinged it off. So door card is off. Nearly all fastners were broke by the previous owner and I can't work out how to get the latch out. :)
But on the positive side I replaced both door strikers which look nicer but haven't fixed any issue :D
 
dag019 said:
It is drivable like that, so I wouldn’t worry too much. It would be an mot failure so will need addressing sooner rather than later. Other than welding a patch on nothing else is going to hold it together so I wouldn’t worry about it too much. I have driveonea with chassis in far worse condition. I have no idea where mine got its mot from when I bought it with 12months ticket. Have virtually no rear crossmember and two of the outriggers were worse than yours!
To replace it you don’t need to strip it down to the chassis, it is not a huge job in the grand scheme of Land Rover jobs. I think it can be done by just removing the floor panel but it has been a long time since I did mine.
Click to expand...
Thanks that's great to know .
 
tottot said:
Do not think you need to replace the whole outrigger,just cut out the rot and weld in a new piece. Do not stick a patch on top as this would encourage more rusting,
Click to expand...
Cheers. That gives me some options when I find a decent welder over here.
 
Me again. My propshaft should be here today/ tomorrow. I've watched videos on who to change it and had a look at the Haynes manual.
But I've got one question.

Since I've got to turn the propshaft to get to 1 of the bolts if I have already removed 3 I'm guessing I don't want to drive the landy forward.
So that leaves jacking it up as the videos say you only need to lift one wheel.
But Haynes manual says u jack up a landy dead centre under the axle or somewhere round there.

Is that right ? If so how do I jack up one wheel ?
Ta
 
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