Resurgam
Well-Known Member
Regrettably not. The bulkhead is all ready, but it's just too bloody cold and damp to attempt it at the moment. I've assembled a spray booth in the garage, but just need a dry day when I can stick a fan heater and a dehumidifier in and try to get the temperature up to something sensible.
Resurgam
Well-Known Member
Tell me about it. This weekend I'm digging the foundations for our house extension. Ironically I have to have the Landy finished (or at least driveable and weatherproof) before we start building the walls in April next year, because once they're up, they're too close to the existing garage entrance to get it out! Either that or it'll have to stay in there until we cut a new door in the end wall. It's a good way of pushing Land Rover work up the list of priorities though.
Tirran
Well-Known Member
Send it North, Mik and I will finish it for you and you can dig foundations worry free
Interesting .....
Tirran
Well-Known Member
Rodents , little b’stards have nested on top of the engine and eaten the foam on the engine cover and some of the wiring loom.
checked my wife’s car and exactly the same.
Now repaired, sprayed the engine bay with a peppermint spray as a repellent, they apparently don’t like it and stay clear.
Any suggestions to address the issue, both cars already have cats fitted, the landy doesn’t so interested in what you guys do.
The joys of rural life.
Tirran
Well-Known Member
How are things going?
Resurgam
Well-Known Member
In what might be in the running for most drawn out restoration, I've finally got some progress to report.
Home-made spray booth assembled
Remove crusty old foam seals from the vent flaps
Etch primer
Normal primer
Blue Undercoat (yikes!)
And finally, two coats of Paintman Ultraspeed Enamel in Arles Blue. I ummed and ahhed for months about what colour to paint the Land Rover before finally realising I liked the original blue! And it saves me having to repaint the interior. For some reason my phone camera insists that it's grey, but it looks blue when you get it outside.
And some fresher looking flaps...
And finally I can free up some space in the garage by attaching some of the bits I repainted a while ago. Brake tower and fuel filter back where they belong.
Insect mesh re-riveted. I had a bit of a mare with this one as the new bulkhead doesn't have the same construction as the original (I think due to the manufacturer reducing the number of skins to prevent water getting trapped and rusting out from the inside), meaning that the drilling for the rivets goes dangerously close to the vent edges. So close in fact that I managed to drill through my freshly painted bulkhead
And after a half hour battle, the heater box finally agreed to be attached.
I had to move the Landy out of the garage back in January as the house extension is too close to the original garage door to get a Land Rover out. Consequently I'm seeing which bits need improved rustproofing. In more bad news for my paint choices, the once-pristine axles are now looking awful as Buzzweld's rust encapsulating primer fails to encapsulate the rust.
Now with a bit more space in the garage I can start digging out more bits to be restored. I've almost finished the accelerator and clutch pedal, then I'll start looking at the loom.
To be continued. But don't hold your breath.
Home-made spray booth assembled
Remove crusty old foam seals from the vent flaps
Etch primer
Normal primer
Blue Undercoat (yikes!)
And finally, two coats of Paintman Ultraspeed Enamel in Arles Blue. I ummed and ahhed for months about what colour to paint the Land Rover before finally realising I liked the original blue! And it saves me having to repaint the interior. For some reason my phone camera insists that it's grey, but it looks blue when you get it outside.
And some fresher looking flaps...
And finally I can free up some space in the garage by attaching some of the bits I repainted a while ago. Brake tower and fuel filter back where they belong.
Insect mesh re-riveted. I had a bit of a mare with this one as the new bulkhead doesn't have the same construction as the original (I think due to the manufacturer reducing the number of skins to prevent water getting trapped and rusting out from the inside), meaning that the drilling for the rivets goes dangerously close to the vent edges. So close in fact that I managed to drill through my freshly painted bulkhead
And after a half hour battle, the heater box finally agreed to be attached.
I had to move the Landy out of the garage back in January as the house extension is too close to the original garage door to get a Land Rover out. Consequently I'm seeing which bits need improved rustproofing. In more bad news for my paint choices, the once-pristine axles are now looking awful as Buzzweld's rust encapsulating primer fails to encapsulate the rust.
Now with a bit more space in the garage I can start digging out more bits to be restored. I've almost finished the accelerator and clutch pedal, then I'll start looking at the loom.
To be continued. But don't hold your breath.
Primer is porous, all primers, not just Buzzy Wuzzys. The rust encapsulation will occure because there is a small amount on tannic acid that turns FeO3 (red rust) into FeO2 (black oxide compound) that stops Iron rusting further.
That's porous too so the water and oxygen will leach though it and rust (FeO3) forms again.
The way to stop this is to seal the coating with a bonding, non porous layer ie a topcoat or oil (or better still, both).
Note: Water based topcoats exist too.
Resurgam
Well-Known Member
Interesting to know how the rust encapsulation works. It was actually top coated with Buzzweld's CIO paint - I hadn't just left it in primer, but pretty much everything I used this on has now rusted through. There was only a couple of days between applying the primer and the topcoat so it can't have absorbed that much moisture kept indoors. CIO in itself is supposed to be an all-in-one paint, and the Rust Encapsulator was supposed to be a belt and braces approach to deal with any remaining rust. I'm willing to accept that some of that may be down to poor preparation/inexperience, but having had issues with Buzzweld's high-temperature paint too I'm going to be looking elsewhere in future. If I could go back and do it again I'd use a zinc-rich primer and a 2K paint, but you live and learn! Luckily the Buzzweld Galv-in-One that I used on the chassis does seem to be alright.
Any suggestions for a paint that will overcoat the sorry looking axles (and radius arms etc.) without having to strip everything back to bare metal again would be very helpful.
A rust eater/convertor coating is always better than a 'mixed' paint with a little convertor added.
This stuff is very good (IMO) -
rejel.com
Attack the metal with a hammer (to loosen the flakey bits), floss over with a wire wheel/brush and (after pouring some into a separate container) paint it into the effected area with vigour. Leave it to go black and dry (takes a few hours), rub over lightly with some sandpaper/emery cloth and give it a second coat.
If a spec of rust gets into the bottle, the whole lot will be ruined in less than 12 hours as a chemical reaction takes place, always pour a bit into a separate cointainer (I use a spray can lid).
Primer/undercoat and top coat.
I'm a big fan of Coach Enamel paint these days, Tractol (Smith and Allen) or Paint Man stuff.
This stuff is very good (IMO) -
REJEL RC800 RUST CONVERTER 1Litre PLASTIC BOTTLE
REJEL RC800 RUST CONVERTER 1Litre PLASTIC BOTTLE
Attack the metal with a hammer (to loosen the flakey bits), floss over with a wire wheel/brush and (after pouring some into a separate container) paint it into the effected area with vigour. Leave it to go black and dry (takes a few hours), rub over lightly with some sandpaper/emery cloth and give it a second coat.
If a spec of rust gets into the bottle, the whole lot will be ruined in less than 12 hours as a chemical reaction takes place, always pour a bit into a separate cointainer (I use a spray can lid).
Primer/undercoat and top coat.
I'm a big fan of Coach Enamel paint these days, Tractol (Smith and Allen) or Paint Man stuff.
Resurgam
Well-Known Member
Wow, that's a bit pricey, but if it works then it's probably worth it. I've had a look at the Paint Man Underframe Black, which sounds like it might be suitable.A rust eater/convertor coating is always better than a 'mixed' paint with a little convertor added.
This stuff is very good (IMO) -
REJEL RC800 RUST CONVERTER 1Litre PLASTIC BOTTLE
REJEL RC800 RUST CONVERTER 1Litre PLASTIC BOTTLE
Attack the metal with a hammer (to loosen the flakey bits), floss over with a wire wheel/brush and (after pouring some into a separate container) paint it into the effected area with vigour. Leave it to go black and dry (takes a few hours), rub over lightly with some sandpaper/emery cloth and give it a second coat.
If a spec of rust gets into the bottle, the whole lot will be ruined in less than 12 hours as a chemical reaction takes place, always pour a bit into a separate cointainer (I use a spray can lid).
Primer/undercoat and top coat.
I'm a big fan of Coach Enamel paint these days, Tractol (Smith and Allen) or Paint Man stuff.
This is the current state of the axles. We live a mile or so from the sea, so perhaps there's a bit more salt in the air than in some places which might account for it. Ignore the dubious routing of the brake line - it's just temporary - or at least it was a couple of years ago!
Resurgam
Well-Known Member
Who knows? This rebuild has dragged on so long I've forgotten most of the stuff I did at the beginning!
