Resurgam
Well-Known Member
Things have got in the way over the last week or so, but I've made some progress.
I've read a lot about the problems caused by lack of lubrication getting to the mainshaft between the LT77 gearbox and LT230 transfer box and as there has always been a lot of slack when taking up drive I decided to check what state mine was in. It's a very easy job - just take off the PTO cover (which should apparently be enough to view any wear but I struggled to see anything), then pull off the retaining collar that holds in the input gear.
Then you pull out the input gear and cheer as you discover that it's the cross-drilled one that allows oil to get to the splines. I thought these were an aftermarket modification but it's possible it was factory fitted or maybe changed by the previous owner.
This is the inside of the gear, showing lovely sharp lines where the splines fit onto the mainshaft.
And this is the mainshaft, looking as good as the day it left the factory (sorry to go on about this but it's so much better than I imagined I'm determined to make the most of it!) On the down side it would appear that the drivetrain slack is due to play in the diffs, particularly the front one. Something to look forward to.
Even though the gearbox seemed alright when I was driving it (a decade ago) there is a load of oil and dirt smeared all over one side of it. The other side is clean(ish) and there's nothing on the chassis rail so it's not been thrown up by the front prop spinning. I'll have to have a look at the gaskets and seals once the gearbox is off.
This is the state of the tub where it meets the steel bar that connects it to the front of the chassis/bulkhead (can't remember exactly). I think it's mostly sandwiched between the seatbox and the mounting so I might get away with just cleaning it up and putting a strip of thin rubber between the steel and aluminium when I reassemble everything.
Lots of sheared bolts later and the rear tub is free! With more galvanic corrosion where the tabs bolt on to the tub. I'll have to look at the best way of tidying this up as the new chassis will have a TD5 rear crossmember, which seemed a good idea at the time but doesn't have the external tabs that would have hidden the crappy bits.
And the cause of some of the dodgy electrics becomes clear. When the garage replaced the rear crossmember back in 2005 then cut the loom which is understandable, but then used crimp connectors to join it back together and hidden it all under a load of insulation tape rather than soldering everything nicely.
The last bit of loom. I lost track of the bizarre route it takes through the chassis rail, rear crossmember and both sides of the tub so there will be a lot of trial and error when it comes to refitting.
And with a helping hand, the rear tub is lifted away and we're left with a chassis that's not actually quite as bad as I was expecting.
The underside of the tub isn't too bad. The reinforcing pieces are causing a bit of corrosion so will need taking off and reattaching with some thin rubber to insulate it. The reason for the seatbelt bolts being so difficult to undo is now more obvious - despite looking immaculate on the top they've rusted into the brackets. I'll be either replacing the brackets or getting them sandblasted and galved.
The rock sliders had rusted into the jacking tube so I hadn't been able to get them off until the tub was out of the way. In the end the tube just twisted off leaving a pile of rust flakes, but at least it's easier to move around the chassis now. New sliders (galvanised this time) go on the list.
This is the state of the rear crossmember, which is probably the worst bit of the chassis other than the bulkhead outriggers and is pitiful given that it's the new newest bit. The metal is blowing where the layers meet and the rust flakes come off in sheets.
So that's it for the moment. The plan now is to borrow an engine crane and get the chassis out of the way in preparation for the new one which should be here in a fortnight or so
Hopefully I'll get a full day at it on Sunday. I need to turn the chassis around outside before I can get the engine out, which will be interesting without a steering wheel and would be even more interesting in the dark. Fingers crossed the rain stops by then.
I've read a lot about the problems caused by lack of lubrication getting to the mainshaft between the LT77 gearbox and LT230 transfer box and as there has always been a lot of slack when taking up drive I decided to check what state mine was in. It's a very easy job - just take off the PTO cover (which should apparently be enough to view any wear but I struggled to see anything), then pull off the retaining collar that holds in the input gear.
Then you pull out the input gear and cheer as you discover that it's the cross-drilled one that allows oil to get to the splines. I thought these were an aftermarket modification but it's possible it was factory fitted or maybe changed by the previous owner.
This is the inside of the gear, showing lovely sharp lines where the splines fit onto the mainshaft.
And this is the mainshaft, looking as good as the day it left the factory (sorry to go on about this but it's so much better than I imagined I'm determined to make the most of it!) On the down side it would appear that the drivetrain slack is due to play in the diffs, particularly the front one. Something to look forward to.
Even though the gearbox seemed alright when I was driving it (a decade ago) there is a load of oil and dirt smeared all over one side of it. The other side is clean(ish) and there's nothing on the chassis rail so it's not been thrown up by the front prop spinning. I'll have to have a look at the gaskets and seals once the gearbox is off.
This is the state of the tub where it meets the steel bar that connects it to the front of the chassis/bulkhead (can't remember exactly). I think it's mostly sandwiched between the seatbox and the mounting so I might get away with just cleaning it up and putting a strip of thin rubber between the steel and aluminium when I reassemble everything.
Lots of sheared bolts later and the rear tub is free! With more galvanic corrosion where the tabs bolt on to the tub. I'll have to look at the best way of tidying this up as the new chassis will have a TD5 rear crossmember, which seemed a good idea at the time but doesn't have the external tabs that would have hidden the crappy bits.
And the cause of some of the dodgy electrics becomes clear. When the garage replaced the rear crossmember back in 2005 then cut the loom which is understandable, but then used crimp connectors to join it back together and hidden it all under a load of insulation tape rather than soldering everything nicely.
The last bit of loom. I lost track of the bizarre route it takes through the chassis rail, rear crossmember and both sides of the tub so there will be a lot of trial and error when it comes to refitting.
And with a helping hand, the rear tub is lifted away and we're left with a chassis that's not actually quite as bad as I was expecting.
The underside of the tub isn't too bad. The reinforcing pieces are causing a bit of corrosion so will need taking off and reattaching with some thin rubber to insulate it. The reason for the seatbelt bolts being so difficult to undo is now more obvious - despite looking immaculate on the top they've rusted into the brackets. I'll be either replacing the brackets or getting them sandblasted and galved.
The rock sliders had rusted into the jacking tube so I hadn't been able to get them off until the tub was out of the way. In the end the tube just twisted off leaving a pile of rust flakes, but at least it's easier to move around the chassis now. New sliders (galvanised this time) go on the list.
This is the state of the rear crossmember, which is probably the worst bit of the chassis other than the bulkhead outriggers and is pitiful given that it's the new newest bit. The metal is blowing where the layers meet and the rust flakes come off in sheets.
So that's it for the moment. The plan now is to borrow an engine crane and get the chassis out of the way in preparation for the new one which should be here in a fortnight or so
Hopefully I'll get a full day at it on Sunday. I need to turn the chassis around outside before I can get the engine out, which will be interesting without a steering wheel and would be even more interesting in the dark. Fingers crossed the rain stops by then.
swisstoe
Well-Known Member
Getting there mate.
That chassis could be repaired with a few out riggers, but nothing better than a new one to start rebuilding on.
Your rear tub is very good compared to some i see and all the repair panels are available through YRM.
The splines on the gearbox are perfect and was probably rebuilt at some point.
Keep slogging away over winter and it will be reborn come spring...
That chassis could be repaired with a few out riggers, but nothing better than a new one to start rebuilding on.
Your rear tub is very good compared to some i see and all the repair panels are available through YRM.
The splines on the gearbox are perfect and was probably rebuilt at some point.
Keep slogging away over winter and it will be reborn come spring...
Resurgam
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the optimism! I'll be very pleased if I can get anything that resembles a completed project by spring. Although the in-laws are coming for Christmas so I might be spending a lot of time on it.
Resurgam
Well-Known Member
I'll have to raid the kids' piggy banks but I'm convinced that's the best way forward too. I'll stick the TD5 bulkhead back on eBay (or somewhere else that doesn't rob you blind when you sell stuff) once I've got a chance to give it a dust and get some photos taken.Great thread
Get a galv bulkhead - IMHO, do NOT do all that work and not fit a galv bulkhead.
And when you have it finished, fit a tracker before some sticky fingered a$$hole spoils your day
it's an investment for the future - with a galved chassis and bulkhead it should last essentially for ever, with decent maintenance - your grandkids might be driving it.....
in terms of selling stuff without daft charges - there's always on here... also, not that I'm on it, but I hear good things about FB market place ??
Your existing bulkhead is fixable, and dippable
- so consider that option too
Bilt Hamber and Dintrol are the things to use for protecting against corrosion. IMHO, forget waxoyl - it has become a domestic product with all the nasty VOC's taken out of it - so it's safe for domestic use - you could probably drink it - (<- don't !! ) ....
I know you're galving your bulkhead now
, but there will still be plenty of steel about which'll need protection 
HandyAndyUK
Member
This is an inspirational rebuild, looks like you're really going to make an awesome vehicle and enjoy many years of happy motoring with it.
Resurgam
Well-Known Member
Blimey, I've never done anything inspirational before. If it helps encourage anyone else along the way then all the better. Believe me, if I can do it anyone can!
HandyAndyUK
Member
Good Luck with that Eggy!!
Resurgam
Well-Known Member
Good luck. You'll probably finish it before me at this rate!
Resurgam
Well-Known Member
Just a quick update. Jobs achieved on Sunday:
Roll chassis outside, turn it around (tricky without a steering wheel), sweep up big pile of rust, dirt and discarded gloves.
The rolling chassis in the cold light of day. Somehow it actually looked worse when it was inside.
After wrestling with various configurations of engine crane, concrete blocks and chain length, I ran out of time so the engine is now dangling and waiting for another evening where I can roll the chassis away from under it. Top tip from this experience - take the gearbox out first as the bellhousing studs get in the way when you're trying to lift the engine. Live and learn.
Roll chassis outside, turn it around (tricky without a steering wheel), sweep up big pile of rust, dirt and discarded gloves.
The rolling chassis in the cold light of day. Somehow it actually looked worse when it was inside.
After wrestling with various configurations of engine crane, concrete blocks and chain length, I ran out of time so the engine is now dangling and waiting for another evening where I can roll the chassis away from under it. Top tip from this experience - take the gearbox out first as the bellhousing studs get in the way when you're trying to lift the engine. Live and learn.
Resurgam
Well-Known Member
The TD5 bulkhead has been sold. For my next trick I will attempt to buy a galvanised one for not too much more. Nothing's leaping out at me from eBay. Has anyone had dealings with this lot? https://www.lr-refurb.co.uk/bulkheads
or these http://www.classicbulkheads.com
or these http://www.classicbulkheads.com
Last edited:
N
Not a chance of finishing before you in taking it all in , just getting to know mine lol.
Resurgam
Well-Known Member
A couple more evenings in and things are coming along.
A few more turns of the screw and the engine comes out.
And I've realised that the broken drive belt was down the the alternator being seized solid. I remember seeing some smoke from under the bonnet when I started it up briefly to move it back in 2010. I think a new alternator is probably the best bet as they're fairly cheap and as it's seized I imagine the brushes are fairly likely to be shot.
The engin parked at the end of the workshop.
The gearbox is a lot easier to remove. Only two blokes required.
The chassis looking a bit emptier.
All of the different tools I tried for getting the drag link off the power steering drop arm in order of success. The ball joint separator worked in seconds after quarter of an hour fiddling with the pullers.
This is the state of the swivel ball I replaced in 2007ish. Not too impressed with the claims of improved corrosion resistance from the teflon coated jobbies.
This is the original chrome ball on the other side, still in perfect condition.
Gentle application of an angle grinder and off with the rusty suspension turrets. Galvanised ones on the list.
Hopefully the brake calipers will clean up alright. I'm not going to have much original Landy left at this rate.
One chassis now supported on axle stands, and the first steps towards removing the front axle.
Not sure if the cut-out where the panhard rod bolts in is supposed to be there. Any thoughts?
And having failed miserably to detach any of the hoses I've just pulled the whole of the power steering system out as one. Some cleaning required.
Hoping to get the front axle out next time. We'll see how that goes.
A few more turns of the screw and the engine comes out.
And I've realised that the broken drive belt was down the the alternator being seized solid. I remember seeing some smoke from under the bonnet when I started it up briefly to move it back in 2010. I think a new alternator is probably the best bet as they're fairly cheap and as it's seized I imagine the brushes are fairly likely to be shot.
The engin parked at the end of the workshop.
The gearbox is a lot easier to remove. Only two blokes required.
The chassis looking a bit emptier.
All of the different tools I tried for getting the drag link off the power steering drop arm in order of success. The ball joint separator worked in seconds after quarter of an hour fiddling with the pullers.
This is the state of the swivel ball I replaced in 2007ish. Not too impressed with the claims of improved corrosion resistance from the teflon coated jobbies.
This is the original chrome ball on the other side, still in perfect condition.
Gentle application of an angle grinder and off with the rusty suspension turrets. Galvanised ones on the list.
Hopefully the brake calipers will clean up alright. I'm not going to have much original Landy left at this rate.
One chassis now supported on axle stands, and the first steps towards removing the front axle.
Not sure if the cut-out where the panhard rod bolts in is supposed to be there. Any thoughts?
And having failed miserably to detach any of the hoses I've just pulled the whole of the power steering system out as one. Some cleaning required.
Hoping to get the front axle out next time. We'll see how that goes.
