Hi there,

Did you have to fit the tailgates top hinge housing brackets to the roof and if so how?

I've just bought a tropical station wagon roof and sides and I want to keep my split tailgate.

Many thanks

http://i.imgur.com/L5PYyhS.jpg

no they were there already on mine.
i think its a standard thing, but i have seen them on ebay. i cant think how they actually attach to the roof without looking.
i can check this week if i get near it
 
no they were there already on mine.
i think its a standard thing, but i have seen them on ebay. i cant think how they actually attach to the roof without looking.
i can check this week if i get near it
Thanks very much for replying.

Sorry, for some reason I had it in my head you converted from a full rear door / tailgate to a split tailgate?

The brackets on mine look to me like they are attached by stud rivets, I'll try and drill out and reattach using button head bolts of the same size, should work???

Thanks again for taking the time to reply, much appreciated!

If you do come across any useful info let me know, anything and everything is always a help!
 
I got a tailgate and flap for my s3 to get rid of the door, the brackets were already there for me too, bolts went straight in.
 
my heater control valve was seized and rusted so i threw the old one on the scrap pile, and ordered a new one.

the scrap pile has since been cashed in and now the new one has arrived i realise i am missing this part (pictured)


the whole heater control system doesn't appear in my parts catalogue for some reason, in place of the valve there is just a plug.


can anyone give me the number for this extension part?

thanks
 
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can't see it in my parts book either, isn't that silly.

I supposes its just to lift the valve up above the engine so the hose clears it
 
looks like its female one end and male the other, could you not use a bit of copper pipe with some compression joints.

or cut out the valve altogether as you only get heat when the blower is on anyway and use the bit land raver found to give you something to attach the hose to
 
I got a tailgate and flap for my s3 to get rid of the door, the brackets were already there for me too, bolts went straight in.


The Tropical Station Wagon roof I got didn't have the brackets fitted but I've replaced the rivets holding the brackets onto my existing roof with button head Allen key bolts which are the exact size of the rivets.

Now when I change my roof section its only a matter of unbolting the brackets and drill and bolting them to the new roof once the 'catflap' tailgate is lined up.

I've already fitted the Station Wagon side panels and drilled and fitted the 'catflap' tailgate catch locks and prop brackets to both side, once all on and finished I can replace the Allen bolts for proper rivets again and hopefully it job done!
 
Heater is not listed in the standard parts catalogue because it was an optional extra, it is listed in the optional equipment parts catalogue.

opt_heater.jpg

Part is 594622 as you have found already. Don't forget the sealing washer 213960 :)
 
so, i have set the bank holiday weekend aside for getting the gearbox back in.
I bought an engine crane last week, pretty much the cheapest i could get, but i worked out the cost of hiring one for more than 2 weekends pretty much equated to the same as buying this.

arrived just in time from holland, in three boxes sent through two couriers for some reason.
the quality isn't top notch but its strong and sturdy, and its not going to be overloaded so it should be fine.


its first job was to lift the engine so i could get the flywheel housing off and work on replacing the rear crank seal.
i knew this wasn't the easiest but it all it has taken most of the day. lots of fiddly parts involved


getting the oil seal together using the retaining spring took around 20 trys.
but we made it eventually.



flywheel is now back on, i had to fettle some swivel house lock tabs in order to get them to fit as i didn't have the correct ones.

unfortunately, the flywheel when we turned it with a dial gauge attached, read too far above the tolerances in the workshop manual. roughly .12mm instead of the maximum .5mm
however we ran out of time so will try to sort in the morning. the aim is to have the gearbox in place by the end of the weekend!



When we look at it tomorrow has anyone got a suggestion for troubleshooting the flywheel tolerances? the workshop guide pretty much just says check for causes, but we aren't so sure what the causes might be
 
We finished up on sunday, we took the flywheel off to try and work out the dial gauge reading problems.
we rubbed down and cleaned the crank end and the back of the flywheel where it mates up, and then gave the front face a gentle rub and a spray of clutch cleaner, the readings came down the the right tolerances.

There's a little bit of scoring/marking but you can barley feel it, so i'm hoping its not a problem.
the torque on the flywheel bolts is massive, it took a lot of force to hold the crank with a bar through the starter handle slot.

clutch on and aligned. drapers clutch mate tool is not recommended


a socket is much easier


anyway we pulled the box out of the shed, leaving an amazing amount of workspace.


strapped it up.


and lifted in.

realised it wasn't sensible to leave the slave cylinder on.

lining them up was really bloody hard, but we managed


and its in!

in a moment of stupidity/tiredness, i rushed to fit the inspection cover and dropped a bolt inside!
we tried with various magnets, but couldn't get it back
so we had to separate everything again. fortunately it went back together really quickly.

that pretty much took all day, but I'm glad its finally done.
its taken me nearly 2 years to sort this job out.


final photo of the landy as it stands today
 

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