Jam1 said:

Have you considered a rotating drum at a slight angle, with slots in the side filled with mesh?

Click to expand...

Yes but mainly for my finding Nazi gold project



######

The problem is finding the mesh at the moment. Ideally I'd like to remove the really fine dust and come up with some sort of multistage system that gets rid of the big stuff and the dust and presents the in between sized reusable grit in handy sacks (presented on silver platters of course).

To be honest I was thinking about shaking tables partly because it looks more ridiculous - rotary motion converted to violent shaking is always fun...

Another mini update - after being hindered by google search terms I came up with this company

http://www.themeshcompany.com/

I'm not sure if they'll ship to Holland yet but perhaps their products could be the start of some @Jam1 inspired rotary shaking effort...

Probably getting a bit boring for some now - but it looks like the best DIY option for home made sieves that will hold a fair amount of (sand) weight is probably going to be perforated sheet.

I've found a place in Holland that makes and sells directly stainless perforated sheet with holes as small as 0.8mm

There's also the possibility of getting stainless perforated sheets made into tubes that have been rolled into cylinders - used in exhaust mufflers apparently. These come in diameters as large as 76mm. So that's another possibility for a shaka makea.

These stronger sheets could of course be combined with the finer mesh stuff found earlier.

Ideas? Opinions?

Bouwvakantie

Bloody bouwvakantie strikes again.

Stupid country goes to sleep every year from July until October - all because of the summer holiday - getting ready for it - actually being on holiday - and then of course getting used to being back at work again before you think about going skiing...

...it took four days to get my sieves.



As you can see they are small. But they do a good job.

I'm amazed at how much junk ends up in the sand after a bit of use - makes me think it is really important to sieve before reusing.

I'm not 100% convinced automating the sifting is going to be necessary. I might just stick with the sieves and see how patient I'm going to be with it

Been following this thread for ages as it's one of the best. If you've been cleaning steel can you use a magnet to pick up some of the "sacrificed" material?

Headtester said:

Been following this thread for ages as it's one of the best. If you've been cleaning steel can you use a magnet to pick up some of the "sacrificed" material?

Click to expand...

Thanks

Do you mean use a magnet to remove rust from the dust / blasting sand?

If so - rust, unfortunately is not magnetic.

Also to be fair there's paint and muck and junk and other foreign objects in the sand.

######

I saw this on one of the better DIY websites =>

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/sandblasting.htm

This suggests that perhaps, after all, automated sifting is a good thing to consider as I might be able to separate the dust from the blasting medium for heath reasons! (Site doesn't specifically say to do this but I figure removal of the smallest particles before reuse can't be a bad thing)

Ahh - didn't realise rust isn't magnetic, fascinating project, keep the updates coming

Pictures for another thread but I'm dumping them here so I can find them in the future if need be

109 inch / LWB roof measurements =>



I couldn't be bothered to move the step ladder today so I measured at places where I can reach (!)

Right at the end of the roof the width is



1467mm (57.76 inches according to google - no I haven't checked google so use old money conversions with caution)



Further up the width was about 2mm wider at 1469mm

As you might be able to see this is just under the edge of the reinforcing lip that I think is used for door seals on the station wagon (might not exist on the 2 door LWB roofs)



The length of the roof was measured at two places as shown (same place on either side)



Both measurements were 2855mm (112.4 inches according to google - man I'm getting lazy)

Anyone remember this?





It is that pesky battery box that was started ages ago - back on page 26 of this thread => https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/1965-series-2a-station-wagon-in-holland.298002/page-26

Well it kind a ground to a halt when I realised that I wanted to make some decent spot welds in a place where my spot welder won't reach.

I sucked in a deep lung full of air and spent a small fortune on a set of new longer arm electrodes. These took ages to arrive (those blinking Roman Centurion couriers again who bimble their way across Europe with out a care in the world) and then curses...



...the stinking electrodes are just too big to fit in the machine.



In the picture above the short ones have turned ends.

I've been to see a machine shop to see if they can help with turning down the ends to fit - they can do the straight one - but can't do the curved bit.

I'm sure a decent shop could do this but I doubt if I'll find one near to where I live so I've got a cunning plan (involving wood as usual). To be continued.

{Yes yes yes I could have just tried to plug weld the hard to reach areas but where's the fun in that?}

#######

Anyway continuing the slow renovation (it'll be ready for the summer)



Cutting and bending went well today





But the welding started to arse me about...



Too much heat and a bit too much filler rod in places. Going a bit buckled. Bollocks - time to stop and take a breather - use the benefits of a DIY work pace and "it'll be ready for the summer" to your advantage!

Next the mad plan for turning the electrodes to fit the spot welder - then I'll be cooking with gas again.

Got an order from 'addocks today. As usual there was a surprise - this time it was a pleasant one.

I'm pretty sure I'm not the only idiot to be delving deep into these machines but it does make you wonder when it seems how slowly the spares supplies get used up...

...why aren't you all ****ing about with differentials too?







Blinkin' 'eck packaged on the 5th May 1952!

That's spent longer than me sitting around on the shelf - kinda puts it all into perspective eh?

#####

Then the telltale arrow catches the eye and you realise that perhaps they've got their mits on a load of ex-MOD stock?

You should keep the packaging as part of your "Provenance"

Headtester said:

You should keep the packaging as part of your "Provenance"

Click to expand...

Despite my reservations about cluttering up my life with the unnecessary I think I might do that!

'Ere's a continuation of the spot welding electrode fiasco.



Just once I'd like to pay through the nose and end up with an effing product that fits where it should!

What a ball ache - these electrodes are not cheap - but sending them back is hardly the solution because nobody seems to know what size they are meant to be...

...so wood is good - it just about dug me out of the hole anyway.

###########

This is not a method I recommend - not a method I recommend at all - it is barely better than going bareback / free style on one of those flimsy tool rests supplied with a bench grinder.

###########


So anyway, back in the day, I heard of people (like me who don't have a lathe) using cross slides and bench grinders to do some rudimentary turning...

...yep we're back to "Galaxy Quest" and the rudimentary lathe scene again...

...so still working to the ethos of - use some wood - abuse the wood - chuck the wood away when you're done and don't clutter up your life with crap =>



Making up a sliding mechanism

Just using a little hand held saw to make the angled edges - could have done better with the bigger stuff I own but hey that would have had to involve an extension lead (!)



Clamp - screw - slide



Drilled hole in wood smaller than electrode then then cut wood in half along the line shown



Padded "holder" (and I use the term "holder" as loosely as the holder was holding the electrode!) to the required height for the bench grinder



##########

Time for a rant about single phase bench grinders: They are utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter 'king ****. They shouldn't really be allowed to be sold as a grinder. The piece of junk shown in these pictures is barely able to sharpen TIG electrodes and the ones I'm currently using are only 1.6mm thick.

You can imagine how well this bench grinder managed with a lump of copper.

The only reason why I chose this bench grinder is because it had the white grinding stone on it that had not been used for any other purpose and I think that coloured stone is meant to be used on non feros materials (don't quote me on it)

##########



...anyway it kind of managed to help a bit...



Bit of hand sanding and a slight tap with the hammer =>



The bent electrode was being a ham shanker (as was to be expected) but the "holder" kind of prevented any nasty slips



And now at last I've got what I thought I was going to get when I paid shed loads of cash for the electrodes earlier this year.



It works - roll on the Birmabright spot welding work!

Stretch said:

'Ere's a continuation of the spot welding electrode fiasco.

Just once I'd like to pay through the nose and end up with an effing product that fits where it should!

What a ball ache - these electrodes are not cheap - but sending them back is hardly the solution because nobody seems to know what size they are meant to be...

...so wood is good - it just about dug me out of the hole anyway.

###########

This is not a method I recommend - not a method I recommend at all - it is barely better than going bareback / free style on one of those flimsy tool rests supplied with a bench grinder.

###########


So anyway, back in the day, I heard of people (like me who don't have a lathe) using cross slides and bench grinders to do some rudimentary turning...

...yep we're back to "Galaxy Quest" and the rudimentary lathe scene again...

...so still working to the ethos of - use some wood - abuse the wood - chuck the wood away when you're done and don't clutter up your life with crap =>

View attachment 128761

Making up a sliding mechanism

Just using a little hand held saw to make the angled edges - could have done better with the bigger stuff I own but hey that would have had to involve an extension lead (!)

View attachment 128762

Clamp - screw - slide

View attachment 128763

Drilled hole in wood smaller than electrode then then cut wood in half along the line shown

View attachment 128764

Padded "holder" (and I use the term "holder" as loosely as the holder was holding the electrode!) to the required height for the bench grinder

View attachment 128765

##########

Time for a rant about single phase bench grinders: They are utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter 'king ****. They shouldn't really be allowed to be sold as a grinder. The piece of junk shown in these pictures is barely able to sharpen TIG electrodes and the ones I'm currently using are only 1.6mm thick.

You can imagine how well this bench grinder managed with a lump of copper.

The only reason why I chose this bench grinder is because it had the white grinding stone on it that had not been used for any other purpose and I think that coloured stone is meant to be used on non feros materials (don't quote me on it)

##########

View attachment 128766

...anyway it kind of managed to help a bit...

View attachment 128767

Bit of hand sanding and a slight tap with the hammer =>

View attachment 128768

The bent electrode was being a ham shanker (as was to be expected) but the "holder" kind of prevented any nasty slips

View attachment 128769

And now at last I've got what I thought I was going to get when I paid shed loads of cash for the electrodes earlier this year.

View attachment 128770

It works - roll on the Birmabright spot welding work!

Click to expand...

I've got one of them ... it has a iffy mains cable tho ...

Dippypud said:

I've got one of them ... it has a iffy mains cable tho ...

Click to expand...

One of what?

A cordless saw with a dodgy mains cable? A crappy bench grinder? Or like me a spot welding machine with a dodgy power cable? (I'm fed up with swapping UK plugs for Dutch ones and vice versa - the workshop is full of these little foibles: You grab something electrical and think oh yeah first I need that extension lead so that the plug will fit - but that's busy over there doing that...

...and yes, I suppose I should give in to the Dutch system - resistance is futile they say - but the UK system is just better - always has been - always will be)

Stretch said:

Got an order from 'addocks today. As usual there was a surprise - this time it was a pleasant one.

I'm pretty sure I'm not the only idiot to be delving deep into these machines but it does make you wonder when it seems how slowly the spares supplies get used up...

...why aren't you all ****ing about with differentials too?

View attachment 128687

View attachment 128688

View attachment 128689

Blinkin' 'eck packaged on the 5th May 1952!

That's spent longer than me sitting around on the shelf - kinda puts it all into perspective eh?

#####

Then the telltale arrow catches the eye and you realise that perhaps they've got their mits on a load of ex-MOD stock?

Click to expand...

Back to the differential

Here's a tip for removing the old fashioned preservative grease. May be most of us don't get to see this stuff but in case you do, you will probably agree with me that it is quite weird stuff. Using modern "time is money" techniques it seems to be really stroppy awkward stuff that just won't bugger off! You can scrub and scrape and it just laughs at you and gets stuck to everything.

I've found the most efficient way is to spray it with brake cleaner (for example - any other solvent will probably work too) and then put it in a box with a lid on it.



Give is a shake - wait a while - and give it a wipe with a bit of bog roll - it'll come off in its own good time!

If like me you're working back at the ranch then you might need to go and find something else to do before "someone" thinks you might need prompting. I have found it is always a good thing to look busy at all times. I'm certain those three little words: "Could you just" are the scourge of domestic life. Best to keep busy. I recommend the "Good Fellas pasta sauce technique" - someone's gorra keep an eye on the sauce - it's the law - what can I say - no I can't help right now...



(Today I'm making a basic sauce for pizza - simple enough just chop everything finely and let it simmer until it gets about as thick as this =>



It takes time. Notice I've even chopped up some black olives I found in the back of the fridge even though someone says they're not nice but seems to think olive oil on salad is "lovely" - hide it - they'll never know!)

Once the domestic diversion has been played out it is time to crack on with the differential (what you're really concerned about of course)

Checking the run out on a new crown wheel =>



I was quite excited to see how the contact pattern on new pinion and crown wheel would look - never performed this adjusting technique on new parts before - so I was interested in what it was going to look like.

For the run out measurements I had fitted the axial nuts and slowly adjusted them so that there was no detectable back lash between the crown wheel and the pinion. Tightening the end caps on these adjusting nuts seems to be pretty important: The cage and the crown wheel moves - big time. Once I'd got it all nicely positioned I was sure the run out measurements were going to be good. I got a wobble of 0.03mm - well under the limit. Happy.



I backed off the adjusting nut on the crown wheel side a little bit (remember to loosen the fixing bolts!) to get a bit of backlash before fitting the two old half shafts to the differential and clamping them down so the crown wheel and the pinion are loaded. I then painted the crown wheel with some engineers blue and ran that part of the crown wheel one way and then back through the pinion so I could see how the gears mesh.

This is what I got (after another bit of backlash adjustment)





It seems quite nicely centered as per that PDF I posted ages ago. I'm happy with the results - there is a slight descrepency between the positions which might suggest the shim on the pinion needs to be a bit thinner but I reckon I'll give a whirl as it is and see what it sounds like in real life. It is pretty close - I reckon it is "good enough for government work" (!)

#######

I'm quite surprised to see that the contact patterns on this new gear set looks pretty similar to the ones I've made / seen on worn / used gear sets - so that gives me a bit of confidence for the other differential I adjusted earlier in this thread. The acid test, however, is always how it behaves in real life - but I like this method of differential adjustment especially because the method in the green book is so vague and so many things could go wrong (especially when tightening the end caps)

What a stroke of luck!

What a purchase!

I was looking for an original starter motor for a bit and managed to find one. When it arrived I was not only surprised by the size of the blinking thing (about 50% bigger than the modern offering the Land Rover came with) but from the outside it looked like I was going to have similar troubles I've had with those sodding dynamos (still not completely finished with them - but almost there - update on those pesky buggers along with in-depth should I have bothered analysis will follow!)...



It looks like a forlorn turd doesn't it?

Well they say all that glitters is not gold - in this case it looks like I might be able to turn this sow's ear into a silk purse - I might be able to polish a turd after all



Only one stuck bolt so far - the bolt for the lever that gets pulled by the solenoid to engage the whizzer in the flywheel teeth



I've noticed Frosts (in the UK) are now selling Kroon oil products (at a premium price) so a tip about Kroon oil penetrating oil is appropriate - previously, I've not seen it for sale outside of the Benelux countries before but this product is worth spending the extra money on. Even in Holland Kroon oil products are 'king expensive - but when there's a special offer I shell out for their penetrating oil. More often than not penetrating oil is an utter waste of time - better off messing about with acetone and ATF (Not a nice thing to do) so when something that comes in a nice little handy squirty bottle and the stuff won't eat you alive but still help to loosen nuts and bolts in 60% of most cases then I reckon it is worth while giving it a try. So there!

Back to the starter motor - through bolts removed - end pinged off



Case split easily and voila - what a nice shiny thing - minimal wear on the commutator - RESULT!

The springs on the brushes are in perfect (if rather dirty) condition and the brushes are nearly new...



...the wrapping on the coils looks great (despite the dirt)



And to think I had had so little faith in the turd-like exterior I had bought a new set of brushes and springs - all ready to go in.



This is unbelievably good.





The plan has changed.

I'm now just going to clean and repaint the exterior and do some electrickery measurements.

I'm a bit concerned about the bushing in the nose end cap bit (already have a new one) so that might get a treat - but on the whole - who'd have thought it?

Stretch said:

One of what?

A cordless saw with a dodgy mains cable? A crappy bench grinder? Or like me a spot welding machine with a dodgy power cable? (I'm fed up with swapping UK plugs for Dutch ones and vice versa - the workshop is full of these little foibles: You grab something electrical and think oh yeah first I need that extension lead so that the plug will fit - but that's busy over there doing that...

...and yes, I suppose I should give in to the Dutch system - resistance is futile they say - but the UK system is just better - always has been - always will be)

Click to expand...

Spot welder .... got some spare electrodes too ...

Dippypud said:

Spot welder .... got some spare electrodes too ...

Click to expand...

Oh right - are you sure the spot welder trouble isn't related to electricity supply problems? My machine more or less needs to have a dedicated supply (16A) with its own circuit breaker. I think it needs a slow reacting circuit breaker too. Of course I need to have short extension lead lengths and at least 2.5mm^2...

...I use it as close to the supply box as possible

No mate, put in a 16A supply, lead is a bit long, it's the lead from the unit to the 16A extension ... might just re-fit a new lead with a larger cross-section ...