Stretch
Well-Known Member
People here might not know - but may be you do - the thing with home made English wheel frames is that they very quickly develop into some kind of a workshop penis extension (not literally, but a kind of show off piece - what suburbia might call a "talking point" - the sort of thing that gathers dust in a prominent position)...
...I'm trying very hard to resist the urge to fiddle with my new workshop penis extension...
...might even leave some of those ugly welds as a statement of workshop penis anarchy - make it a knobbly one...
...I'm trying very hard to resist the urge to fiddle with my new workshop penis extension...
...might even leave some of those ugly welds as a statement of workshop penis anarchy - make it a knobbly one...
Stretch
Well-Known Member
In between post for the hammer form =>
I had trouble cutting a sharp angle in the OSB so I've resorted to glass fibre filled filler. I would have bought some metal impregnated stuff but the motor factors was out of stock (I guess the locals are busy trying to foil magnet wielding potential purchasers). I don't expect the filler to last long - it is at least in a position where little forming needs to be made.
Fairly liberally applied - waiting till tomorrow for sanding
Amazingly I actually found a use for a can of WD40 some (kind but misguided) person bought for me about ten years ago - WD40 is pretty crap useless stuff but here the bottom of the can was about the right shape for a circle I needed to draw...
Cut a scrap of metal at the right angle so it could be used as a former / spreader
This is probably going to be a mistake =>
I think I should have taken the time to rig up the router and make these corners out of wood...
...I was thinking of "nu-metal" epoxy stuff which is good but could only find the Bison rubbish at short notice.
I give it a 3/10 success rate. Still I'll sand it tomorrow and see how it goes.
I had trouble cutting a sharp angle in the OSB so I've resorted to glass fibre filled filler. I would have bought some metal impregnated stuff but the motor factors was out of stock (I guess the locals are busy trying to foil magnet wielding potential purchasers). I don't expect the filler to last long - it is at least in a position where little forming needs to be made.
Fairly liberally applied - waiting till tomorrow for sanding
Amazingly I actually found a use for a can of WD40 some (kind but misguided) person bought for me about ten years ago - WD40 is pretty crap useless stuff but here the bottom of the can was about the right shape for a circle I needed to draw...
Cut a scrap of metal at the right angle so it could be used as a former / spreader
This is probably going to be a mistake =>
I think I should have taken the time to rig up the router and make these corners out of wood...
...I was thinking of "nu-metal" epoxy stuff which is good but could only find the Bison rubbish at short notice.
I give it a 3/10 success rate. Still I'll sand it tomorrow and see how it goes.
Stretch
Well-Known Member
English wheel frame progress - going is slow...
I've decided to stop adding more stiffeners to the frame and just build the bit for holding the wheel / anvil...
...all of a sudden it seems much stiffer than expected - it needs a bit of spring in it so you can jab metal between the anvils. I'm going to give it a go and see how it performs before I add any more weight. At the moment I can still move it about - getting close to the weight where you wouldn't really want to though...
I've decided to stop adding more stiffeners to the frame and just build the bit for holding the wheel / anvil...
...all of a sudden it seems much stiffer than expected - it needs a bit of spring in it so you can jab metal between the anvils. I'm going to give it a go and see how it performs before I add any more weight. At the moment I can still move it about - getting close to the weight where you wouldn't really want to though...
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Ha ha - are you an American (or a stealth American)? Galaxy Quest seems to be more popular over there.
I got the "rudimentary lathe" response for something I once made a few years back...
Stretch
Well-Known Member
BULKHEAD (partial) DAY TEN
Disaster! Cock up! Nul points...
The plan for making the panel for the backside of the vents was as follows =>
1) Make a shallow indentation so I could see more or less where I needed to hammer
This bit worked (and now forms a basis for plan B which will be implemented next) - just using C-clamps
You can just about see it in this picture =>
2) Next clamp one side of the metal and work from the side of the clamp with a hammer / rivet gun to the other side
(This usually works but this time it ended in a bit of a balls up)
3) Hammer time (!)
The metal work hardened a lot faster than I anticipated - I ended up having to beat seven tons of **** out of it...
...so much so I was worried I was about to bust up the hammer form. Shockingly - especially for those Bison "metal" corners - it all stayed together nicely despite my (manly) pounding...
...as always when you kick the crap out of something =>
It will eventually break.
I got rips in the far crease.
To be honest - it wasn't a shock. I was smacking it so hard I was sure I needed to consider annealing...
...so anyway - lesson learned. Tomorrow Mungo go buy new sheet metal...
...and Mungo use his hydraulic workshop press for plan B (and will not clamp the sides to let them flip up even though in his experience Mungo knows this often causes nasty ripples and creases)
To be continued
Disaster! Cock up! Nul points...
The plan for making the panel for the backside of the vents was as follows =>
1) Make a shallow indentation so I could see more or less where I needed to hammer
This bit worked (and now forms a basis for plan B which will be implemented next) - just using C-clamps
You can just about see it in this picture =>
2) Next clamp one side of the metal and work from the side of the clamp with a hammer / rivet gun to the other side
(This usually works but this time it ended in a bit of a balls up)
3) Hammer time (!)
The metal work hardened a lot faster than I anticipated - I ended up having to beat seven tons of **** out of it...
...so much so I was worried I was about to bust up the hammer form. Shockingly - especially for those Bison "metal" corners - it all stayed together nicely despite my (manly) pounding...
...as always when you kick the crap out of something =>
It will eventually break.
I got rips in the far crease.
To be honest - it wasn't a shock. I was smacking it so hard I was sure I needed to consider annealing...
...so anyway - lesson learned. Tomorrow Mungo go buy new sheet metal...
...and Mungo use his hydraulic workshop press for plan B (and will not clamp the sides to let them flip up even though in his experience Mungo knows this often causes nasty ripples and creases)
To be continued
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
Hahaha!
You might think so... but no
LOLBut Galaxy Quest is quite a fun movie! It was on terrestrial tele here in the UK a few years back
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Oh I agree Galaxy Quest is good fun, along with others such as Blazing Saddles (for its time!) and perhaps even Top Secret...Hahaha!
You might think so... but no
But Galaxy Quest is quite a fun movie! It was on terrestrial tele here in the UK a few years back
Stretch
Well-Known Member
BULKHEAD (partial) DAY ELEVEN
(Spent about an hour scratching me bits and decided I need some advice from the guru's over on metalmeet.com)
Second attempt for the inner vent panel on the bulkhead.
The results today depend on whether you're a glass half full or half empty kind of a chap...
...I spent a bit of time marking out roughly where the indentations are going to go
I then repeated the trick with the plank of OSB and the G-clamps for both of the indentations
I then clamped one side (loosely) to prevent too much flipping up and went for it (!)
It had quite a good "initial effect"
But at about four metric tons the OSB under the ram is more or less at its limit - you can apply more force but the movement goes into wood / OSB destruction rather than metal shaping (I'm sure there's another limit where the wood compression will more or less stop for a bit whilst the metal moves but for this situation I estimate it will be in excess of ten tons - the limit on my bench top press)
So if you're a glass half full chap you might say that this is a "good start"
There is a bit of wrinkling going on =>
This can be smoothed out with the metal forming / rivet gun solution so I'm not too worried about it just yet. I am trying to avoid folds forming though.
##########
As an aside I tried quickly just the bare ram on the sheet metal and at three metric tons (on the dodgy gauge) you can mark the surface with the ram so I'm not going to do that any more!
########
So for today - work in progress - off to metalmeet.com to get some advice! (I think I need to break out the plastic hammers)
(Spent about an hour scratching me bits and decided I need some advice from the guru's over on metalmeet.com)
Second attempt for the inner vent panel on the bulkhead.
The results today depend on whether you're a glass half full or half empty kind of a chap...
...I spent a bit of time marking out roughly where the indentations are going to go
I then repeated the trick with the plank of OSB and the G-clamps for both of the indentations
I then clamped one side (loosely) to prevent too much flipping up and went for it (!)
It had quite a good "initial effect"
But at about four metric tons the OSB under the ram is more or less at its limit - you can apply more force but the movement goes into wood / OSB destruction rather than metal shaping (I'm sure there's another limit where the wood compression will more or less stop for a bit whilst the metal moves but for this situation I estimate it will be in excess of ten tons - the limit on my bench top press)
So if you're a glass half full chap you might say that this is a "good start"
There is a bit of wrinkling going on =>
This can be smoothed out with the metal forming / rivet gun solution so I'm not too worried about it just yet. I am trying to avoid folds forming though.
##########
As an aside I tried quickly just the bare ram on the sheet metal and at three metric tons (on the dodgy gauge) you can mark the surface with the ram so I'm not going to do that any more!
########
So for today - work in progress - off to metalmeet.com to get some advice! (I think I need to break out the plastic hammers)
liam_italian
Member
I think you'll also need to sandwich the rest of the sheet of metal between two pieces of wood to stop it distorting when your pressing the vent into the metal.
You could also cut away the excess metal from the vent area which should make it a bit easier to press the vent area.
You could also cut away the excess metal from the vent area which should make it a bit easier to press the vent area.
Stretch
Well-Known Member
As it turned out that was the advice from the chaps on metalmeet.com
I do like those hole punches - nice clean holes
Rough cut made with aviation snips
First blat with the rivet gun =>
It is coming good - more or less - I have manged to rip a few holes though. I guess I have to breath in and let go and just weld up the mistakes later on! It would have been nice to have done it "good" the first time but I don't have the expertise for that just yet.
I've stopped for today to make sure I don't aggravate an old percussion instrument injury (makes it sound like I used to play the triangle for the Rolling Stones but had to give it up 'cos of a repetitive strain injury...) as those rivet guns can be a bit of a bugger on your wrists if done for too long (!)
I also need to buy some more G clamps (again)
liam_italian
Member
There is a guy over on Facebook (I know your not it's biggest fan lol) who makes repair panels for series land rovers. He has lots of pictures of his work including the jigs etc he's made to make all the pressings etc, it would be worth your while to have a look at it.
Here are a few of the pictures from his page
Here are a few of the pictures from his page
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Is that the same chap you posted the link for earlier on in the thread? (I guess so)
As much as I admire his work and the effort involved in making machine pressings this is exactly what I am trying to avoid!
I have no intention what so ever of making these parts more than once (or the few attempts it takes me to do it). If anybody is (crazy enough) to ask me to make something for them then the answer is no - have a go your self!
This is a "wood is good" campaign - use it - abuse it - throw it away...
...I do not want to clutter up my life with even more crap than is necessary. It is already beyond a joke.
Because what ever I make is to be chucked at the end of the process I am avoiding solutions that involve CNC laser cutting of steel plates, for example, which in Holland would probably be hundreds of euros: That would then be an impossible heart wrenching chuck which would involve the loss of more shelf space and the gathering of dust.
I've got to kill the clutter and replace with things that are gonna be used at least once in a blue moon!
Alibro
Well-Known Member
LOL, I admire your efforts to do the job yourself as that's exactly what I would try to do (emphasis on TRY) but have you thought of using a harder wood? OSB board is quite soft.
Stretch
Well-Known Member
To be honest I wasn't expecting the wood to have come away completely unscathed so far but it has.
The OSB is protected by better quality plywood in the areas where I expected trouble - the weakest parts, the corners, are full of that fake metal epoxy stuff that I expected would be dust by now. So far the sheet metal has ripped and come apart before any damage to the wooden construction has occurred.
This is indeed seat of your pants pushing it as far as you can before it breaks stuff - I wasn't expecting it to be so resilient - but this plan A / plan B approach seems to be working so far. Plan C is totally different (the more observant might have noticed that as I've posted a drawing a few posts back)
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Like a Magpie I saw something else glinting in the corner of my eye
30 milliseconds between the other stuff =>
M22 threaded bar and nuts being used for English wheel adjusters (some say you need to have square thread profiles but I've gone for a lighter weight thread with finer adjustment - we'll see what's good in the end)
30 milliseconds between the other stuff =>
M22 threaded bar and nuts being used for English wheel adjusters (some say you need to have square thread profiles but I've gone for a lighter weight thread with finer adjustment - we'll see what's good in the end)
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Hashtag life getting in the bloody way dot com or wot...
...still arsing about with the English wheel - getting closer and closer to perhaps getting used in anger =>
Top wheel now fitted to a cradle and the rest of the slider mechanisms are underway
{All this welding is getting a bit tedious though and I haven't even started on the chassis}
...still arsing about with the English wheel - getting closer and closer to perhaps getting used in anger =>
Top wheel now fitted to a cradle and the rest of the slider mechanisms are underway
{All this welding is getting a bit tedious though and I haven't even started on the chassis}
