Dan_Trials
Well-Known Member
Depends who you ask, Hippo would tell you Discoveries are worserer but he's full of ****e
Out here on the west coast everything rusts to bits so it's to be expected.
Your flange looks good
Out here on the west coast everything rusts to bits so it's to be expected.
Your flange looks good
Stretch
Well-Known Member
It has been mentioned before - in fact so frequently - now I'm no longer embarrassed to post pictures of it on the internet...
Your flange looks good
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Ye gads - another milestone moment - I put something together today.
And look! I didn't even forget to position the grease nipple in the correct place so the UJ can be serviced. (Not mentioned in ye olde greene booke)
Still got to order the front part to see if I can get some better fitting splines...
And look! I didn't even forget to position the grease nipple in the correct place so the UJ can be serviced. (Not mentioned in ye olde greene booke)
Still got to order the front part to see if I can get some better fitting splines...
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Even had 10 minutes of scraping.
Nasty horse hair on the underside of the safari roof needs to come off. I tried burning / heating and - holy **** - that horse hair goes off like a bush fire!
So - I opted for some paint stripper.
[IN THE OLD DAYS RANT]
You used to be able to get paint stripper that actually worked. Now we're stuck with utter crap that really ought to have the manufacturer's in daily trouble with trading standards. I mean even Nitromores is rubbish these days...
...still one solution which sort of kinda works at a silly price is POR strip
[/IN THE OLD DAYS RANT]
Nasty horse hair on the underside of the safari roof needs to come off. I tried burning / heating and - holy **** - that horse hair goes off like a bush fire!
So - I opted for some paint stripper.
[IN THE OLD DAYS RANT]
You used to be able to get paint stripper that actually worked. Now we're stuck with utter crap that really ought to have the manufacturer's in daily trouble with trading standards. I mean even Nitromores is rubbish these days...
...still one solution which sort of kinda works at a silly price is POR strip
[/IN THE OLD DAYS RANT]
Dan_Trials
Well-Known Member
I had an in the olde days rant about red oxide just last week!
LordOWar
Well-Known Member
You can still get proper paint stripper but you technically need to be in the trade. autojumbles you can get it but be aware of cheap stuff as it does have a shelf life and should have an expiry date on it, if it doesn't then it may be a bit crap. I think you need to phone them order it. due to crapness of my super whizzo smartphone I cannot post a link so do a search for origiplate and they should be the first one in the list.
This is better than Nitromors ever was, very strong.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Starchem-...010845?hash=item43f14aa91d:g:AGAAAOSwEjFXe0t8
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Starchem-...010845?hash=item43f14aa91d:g:AGAAAOSwEjFXe0t8
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Well thanks for the suggestion. I'll see if they'll post to Holland.
(Probably not - for some reason they often say couriers won't take chemical products across a little bit of water - must be because they employ so many witches - they of course have trouble crossing water...)
Well I'm glad I'm not the only one ranting about stuff.
Yep once you've invented the bomb you can't un-invent it - I've tried getting the decent stuff through "professional" people I know but even they have to provide so much health and safety paper work they can't be bothered with it!
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Had some time to get the first of the front hubs underway
The bearings are not quite toast yet but they've been living in muck ****e for so long the running surfaces are a bit past it. A bit of discolouration which is difficult to tell if it is due to over heating or just muck.
Nice time masking!
For the parts that aren't mega rusty and need to sit in a bath of Rustyco I'm speeding things along with Brunox. It is a weird epoxy thing that comes out of the can in a clear fluid. It reacts to rust and turns it black and seals in one go.
I'll be undercoating a second layer with ferpox undercoat too (overkill) and then using the chassis black top coat.
The bearings are not quite toast yet but they've been living in muck ****e for so long the running surfaces are a bit past it. A bit of discolouration which is difficult to tell if it is due to over heating or just muck.
Nice time masking!
For the parts that aren't mega rusty and need to sit in a bath of Rustyco I'm speeding things along with Brunox. It is a weird epoxy thing that comes out of the can in a clear fluid. It reacts to rust and turns it black and seals in one go.
I'll be undercoating a second layer with ferpox undercoat too (overkill) and then using the chassis black top coat.
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Front hub continued...
...Ferpox undercoat went on over the Brunox
I then fitted the bearing cups using the old bearing wrapped in masking tape to help press the bearing cup in place.
Last Ferpox undercoating to get rid of the scrape marks left from fitting the bearing cups
(Differential on the RHS - more about that in the following posts)
...Ferpox undercoat went on over the Brunox
I then fitted the bearing cups using the old bearing wrapped in masking tape to help press the bearing cup in place.
Last Ferpox undercoating to get rid of the scrape marks left from fitting the bearing cups
(Differential on the RHS - more about that in the following posts)
Stretch
Well-Known Member
After the corrosion problems with the differential I ended up buying a second hand one. 63 euros delivered. Turned out to be a pretty good deal. I pulled it to bits to check the condition and it looks like only the pinion bearings need to be replaced. Happy days!
It isn't a series 2a differential, however, it is a series 3. Nearly the same - not quite - anyone know all the differences? (answers on a post card etc)
Instead of wire locking on the axial bearing caps running through the clamps for the axial adjusting "wheels" there's just a split pin
I wanted to replace the pinion seal at the very least and I hoped the pinion bearings would be good
Not shown in the pictures but the pinion bearings show signs of over heating
Axial bearings in acceptable condition - so they will stay
De-rusting the casing
Also after angle grinder and wire brush attachment
Rustyco gel treatment for a few hours =>
Pulling large bearing off the pinion
Re-position your puller when you get more space!
De-rusting done - only small areas with light rust in those hard to reach areas. Treated with Brunox - and now over (under) coated with Ferpox
It isn't a series 2a differential, however, it is a series 3. Nearly the same - not quite - anyone know all the differences? (answers on a post card etc)
Instead of wire locking on the axial bearing caps running through the clamps for the axial adjusting "wheels" there's just a split pin
I wanted to replace the pinion seal at the very least and I hoped the pinion bearings would be good
Not shown in the pictures but the pinion bearings show signs of over heating
Axial bearings in acceptable condition - so they will stay
De-rusting the casing
Also after angle grinder and wire brush attachment
Rustyco gel treatment for a few hours =>
Pulling large bearing off the pinion
Re-position your puller when you get more space!
De-rusting done - only small areas with light rust in those hard to reach areas. Treated with Brunox - and now over (under) coated with Ferpox
LincolnSteve
Well-Known Member
I have had much the same problems. I needed replacement outer part of both halfshafts. The first few places I looked all wanted £100+. Paddocks only wanted approx. £22 per side. Not sure if it was an up-cock on their website but they have arrived and are Bearmach parts. Happy days.
Stretch
Well-Known Member
I found the outer shaft on paddocks for the price you mention. Looks fine to me. The larger inner half shafts are blinking expensive though...
...I think I'll try and find a good second hand solution first.
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Not much progress today
Does anyone know the name of the colour painted on these engine parts?
The breather pipe on the engine is obviously black but the filler / breather cap looks like it was once a cream colour.
The same colour seems to have been used on the oil filter assembly too
Does anyone know the name of the colour painted on these engine parts?
The breather pipe on the engine is obviously black but the filler / breather cap looks like it was once a cream colour.
The same colour seems to have been used on the oil filter assembly too
Dan_Trials
Well-Known Member
You are making good progress!
Stretch
Well-Known Member
...which ground to a halt for most of this week!
Here's some (more positive) progress though =>
Only one tiny little hole in the under seat box that needs to be welded.
Stretch
Well-Known Member
The pipe for the combined breather and the oil fill thing is now in VHT caliper paint satin black. I hope it stays stuck on!
Weather here has not been paint friendly. The humidty is a tad on the damp side (sarcasm) - so I'm spraying a light coat of oil over stuff and waiting for the sun after some de-rusting
Dan_Trials
Well-Known Member
Bet it turns in to a much bigger hole by the time the welding is done!
