Bit of mopping up achieved today

Engine oil pump is back together

1965 series 2a station wagon engine oil pump going back together.JPG


I've some of that nice Millers engine assembly lube. I really like the feeling of smearing that stuff into cold hard engine parts...

...it is pretty sticky and will undoubtedly help with the initial cranking / pre-running testing I have planned.

Checking the gap between the replacement cogs and the housing (as per the Green book) is quite easy - checking the end float is also OK (use a steel rule as per Green book) - but measuring the backlash is beyond my ability - I guess there's a gucci angle measuring device to do this somewhere - but as they are new cogs I'm going with the flow. The pump pressure will be checked before the engine is run - and I need to make sure the pressure relief valve operates too...

...I'm still fiddling about with the top coat green. That little panel I was playing around with now has a decent top coat.

1965 series 2a station wagon that panel now has a top coat.JPG


But I want to see if I can polish out imperfections with the paint man enamel. This might prove to be useful in the future if I can.
 
Is that a 'King Dick' adjustable? We've got two of those which came from my Dad, but I'm slightly surprised that it's part of a toolkit from LR. Engineers don't like adjustables! Dad was RAF trained and then became a designer on RR jet engines - when he passed one of them onto me he made me promise that it'd only be used if the nut was going to be replaced... My Son now has one of them with the same rule attached.
 
boguing said:
Is that a 'King Dick' adjustable? We've got two of those which came from my Dad, but I'm slightly surprised that it's part of a toolkit from LR. Engineers don't like adjustables! Dad was RAF trained and then became a designer on RR jet engines - when he passed one of them onto me he made me promise that it'd only be used if the nut was going to be replaced... My Son now has one of them with the same rule attached.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately it was supplied.

Here's a picture from the parts catalogue

1965 series 2a station wagon tool kit listing in parts book.JPG


I too had RAF mechanic training - back in the days of yore I was a rigger - we were also taught not to use adjustables. Right tool for the right job etc

Unfortunately these days there's a new enemy: Anyone who wears action slacks (especially the wipe clean type with the zips to make them into shorts) gets the "Leatherman pat down" before they come any where near my vehicles!

Any plonker wandering about with a Leatherman would get a beasting (which rather unusually would be instigated by the SNCOs)

Another pet hate of mine is numpties with impact tools - they do have their place (I use them myself) - but some people wander about with them in little holsters and use them for everything. They're just playing...
 
Stretch said:
Yuk corrosion =>

Doesn't look too dreadful on the outer surface...

View attachment 108249

...but on the inside...

View attachment 108250

I think I'm going to have to replace this bit.
Click to expand...
Oh my giddy aunt (she must be on the bottle or something like that at the moment - well giddy that she is)

Has anyone seen how expensive this part is?

Part number (for RHS) is 333244 or MTC5353 - 96 quid ex VAT at 'addocks - bit cheaper on ebay (but then the postage bites me in the chuff)

#######

I'm quickly coming up with a cunning plan.
 
Oi - I've got a Leatherman and an air impact gun! The former is blimmin handy on a boat, and the impact (a new toy bought on a hunch for the following job) has earned its money back several time on my Jaguar engine. Several 6mm screws holding bits of the cooling system yielded to a good soak with 50/50 actone/EP90 (best easing concoction ever) and I just left the gun running on the lowest torque setting for about fifteen minutes. All came out reusable, unlike the first one that snapped before the spanner even felt tight.

As far as that panel goes - you have some sheet material?
 
boguing said:
Oi - I've got a Leatherman and an air impact gun! The former is blimmin handy on a boat, and the impact (a new toy bought on a hunch for the following job) has earned its money back several time on my Jaguar engine. Several 6mm screws holding bits of the cooling system yielded to a good soak with 50/50 actone/EP90 (best easing concoction ever) and I just left the gun running on the lowest torque setting for about fifteen minutes. All came out reusable, unlike the first one that snapped before the spanner even felt tight.

As far as that panel goes - you have some sheet material?
Click to expand...
I can probably make a replacement panel if I must but I'm keen to try that HTS2000 I bought a few months back

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/any-one-tried-hts-2000-aluminium-repair-stuff-before.299459/

I'll be clamping a bit of sheet steel on the outer surface and heating it so I can melt the rod on top.

This might work - might not - but I'll have a bit of fun trying.

The downside from what I can make out so far with this stuff is that it ends up being harder than the Birmabright so if I get pools of the stuff all over the place it will be a bit of a sad end to the panel...
 
(And so the scattiness of the thread continues)

Back to the vent mechanisms today.

Remember these?

1965-series-2a-station-wagon-bulkhead-vent-levers4-jpg.107683


1965-series-2a-station-wagon-bulkhead-vent-levers7-jpg.107686


Well I got the Eastwoods Patina Preserver (should be said with strong cockney accent to enhance my amusement), so I carried on getting the bits ready for it.

1965 series 2a station wagon dismantling vent mechanisms1.JPG


Not quite straightforward as you might expect. Hammer and punch on the old rivet makes the parts bend. So I had to resort to the lethal "prise it apart with a Stanley knife" trick. I warn you if you've never done this before it is probably the #1 smartest way to stab yourself - look out!

If the Stanley knife doesn't get you there's always a chance of puncturing yourself with a thin screw driver blade (long live pound shops for cheapo "I don't mind abusing these crappy screwdrivers" screwdrivers)

1965 series 2a station wagon dismantling vent mechanisms2.JPG


I then washed the parts in garage hand soap.

Dried 'em

Then wiped them over with the Pre-painting prep stuff

1965 series 2a station wagon vent mechanisms overhaul3.JPG


Oh yeah to straighten parts that were bent previously (and during the hammer and punch rivet removal exercise in futility) I whacked 'em in the hydraulic press and gave 'em a squeeze (have I mentioned my hydraulic press before? It is a really good bit of kit...)

1965 series 2a station wagon vent mechanisms overhaul1.JPG


The badly bent bit (see above) is now like this

1965 series 2a station wagon vent mechanisms overhaul2.JPG


So anyway hung 'em up and was ready for this =>

1965 series 2a station wagon vent mechanisms overhaul4.JPG


When I noticed the label says "Protection for up to a year depending on conditions"

Oh CRAP

Back to the drawing board - I want a twist and go: No cocking about solution - need another coating so I've just left them hanging in the wind for now

1965 series 2a station wagon vent mechanisms overhaul5.JPG
 
Could you spray it with that stuff to put a protective coating on it then go over it again with satin lacquer?
 
Alibro said:
Could you spray it with that stuff to put a protective coating on it then go over it again with satin lacquer?
Click to expand...
Nope - this preservation spray turns out to be an expensive cousin of WD40 (from what I can work out) so any clear coat would fall off. I think I'll just try a clear coat (a la Richard Rawlings) and see how it goes.
 
Stretch said:
Flipping 'eck - it has been all "I'm waiting for this to finish off that" and "I can't do that 'cos I've just run out of that" recently - blinking frustrating.

Some progress was made by someone else though.

I got some chaps in the same warehouse as me to remove the tyres from the wheels. I had ten in all to be done. All of the tyres are totally and utterly buggered so they had to come off.

They had a really rough time removing the tyres from the wheels - their machine nearly died. I'm paying extra beer for the job.

In Holland the cost of chucking tyres is pretty horrific so I was lucky enough to gift three of them to another bloke in the warehouse who wanted to hang them off the side of his boat to "dissuade them posh ****ers in plastic boats from mooring next to his" - 7 left to find a new home.

View attachment 108088

View attachment 108089

As you can see the wheels are also totally and utterly buggered too. (Happy days)

I'm currently researching tubed and non tubed wheel and tyre combinations.
Click to expand...
Those wheels aren't completely buggered, not even a little bit!

You could plant potatoes in the tyres and then sell the harvest to fund the project.
 
Stretch said:
I'm probably gonna sound like an old fart again - but most "paint strippers" these days really ought to be done under trade descriptions. In the UK Nitromors used to be the stuff that would eventually eat through most things but these days even that stuff is total ham shank. I didn't used to be like that!

I remember when paint stripper WAS paint stripper and it actually attempted to do what it says it does on the tin.

I also remember when cheese tasted like cheese - all this was fields - when children weren't so bloody precocious - and - when you fried bacon in a pan it didn't fill up with water!

Anyway - I digress - I've found some "paint stripper" that not only makes your eyes water but it actually makes paint wrinkle and (almost) come off.

It is even for sale to normal people - not restricted to use by (so called) professionals

'Er it is =>

View attachment 108139

It isn't perfect like "how steak used to taste" but it most certainly does need to be treated with respect. It does do something and negates the need to spend hours and hours with an orbital sander =>

View attachment 108140

10 minutes on the underside - it started to wipe off

View attachment 108141

View attachment 108142

Top side took a bit longer but mostly came off

View attachment 108143

Stripping other parts - this was cream to start off with (had been badly applied so came off with no trouble)

View attachment 108144

The under original petrol blue is taking a bit longer

View attachment 108145

########

So any way - there you go paint stripper that more or less does what it says it will do - and is available for sale to normal people...

...unfortunately it is very very very expensive...

(For those of you outside of Europe:- I don't know exactly why it has turned out this way here - could be environmental issues or perhaps anti-terrorism measures that have enforced the sale of non real paint stripper - stuff that in fact ought to be called "a 'ucking waste of your time money and effort - don't bother buying me"!)
Click to expand...

Now, paint stripper, I was told this by a very cunning salesman: "Modern paint strippers don't need to be as strong because modern paints aren't as tough to shift and a lot panels are made from recycled materials so there is a risk of damaging the panel with the older (proper) paint strippers." When I pointed out that it is possible to buy what is being touted as "old style" paints for classic car restorations so why can't we have "old style" paint strippers, he blamed the EU.
 
Agreed @dantrials get them blasted and primed. I've just sold five for £25 each on eBay. And bought four new tubeless rims for the same - go figure, as they say.
 
boguing said:
Is that a 'King Dick' adjustable? We've got two of those which came from my Dad, but I'm slightly surprised that it's part of a toolkit from LR. Engineers don't like adjustables! Dad was RAF trained and then became a designer on RR jet engines - when he passed one of them onto me he made me promise that it'd only be used if the nut was going to be replaced... My Son now has one of them with the same rule attached.
Click to expand...
I work for a company that has the word 'Engineering' in it's name, I assumed (wrongly as it turns out) I would be working with engineers. I don't claim to be any sort of engineering type but if a nut is a 19mm then my understanding is that you use a 19mm spanner/socket/wrench etc to remove it. Oh no no no. "Just take two shifters with ya, saves taking a whole spanner and socket set."
 
Dan_Trials said:
Those wheels aren't completely buggered, not even a little bit!

You could plant potatoes in the tyres and then sell the harvest to fund the project.
Click to expand...

I'll take some clearer pictures - the edge of the rims where the tyres sit are pretty rough.

A few of them have some serious structural rot - those need to be crushed

Dan_Trials said:
Now, paint stripper, I was told this by a very cunning salesman: "Modern paint strippers don't need to be as strong because modern paints aren't as tough to shift and a lot panels are made from recycled materials so there is a risk of damaging the panel with the older (proper) paint strippers." When I pointed out that it is possible to buy what is being touted as "old style" paints for classic car restorations so why can't we have "old style" paint strippers, he blamed the EU.
Click to expand...

Everyone blames the EU. If you live outside of the UK though you'll quickly realise that the rest of Europe seems to have a "yes Sir Mr President (we'll do what we want)" approach to the rules. Holland, for example, has health and safety standards that are about 25 years behind the UK. Building regulations here are easy peasy compared with the red tape issues in the UK. MOT in Holland? If it fails here then you really ought to have a proper look at it - it ain't no TUV test - or a test in Switzerland (which isn't in the EU - google what can't be done there - mad!).

For the case of the paint stripper, however, this does seem to be a EU wide problem but whether it was a "from Brussles" problem or not I don't know.
 
Stretch said:
I'll take some clearer pictures - the edge of the rims where the tyres sit are pretty rough.

A few of them have some serious structural rot - those need to be crushed



Everyone blames the EU. If you live outside of the UK though you'll quickly realise that the rest of Europe seems to have a "yes Sir Mr President (we'll do what we want)" approach to the rules. Holland, for example, has health and safety standards that are about 25 years behind the UK. Building regulations here are easy peasy compared with the red tape issues in the UK. MOT in Holland? If it fails here then you really ought to have a proper look at it - it ain't no TUV test - or a test in Switzerland (which isn't in the EU - google what can't be done there - mad!).

For the case of the paint stripper, however, this does seem to be a EU wide problem but whether it was a "from Brussles" problem or not I don't know.
Click to expand...


I understand what you are saying, and I'm rather split on it all to be honest. In some ways it's a natural progression to improve such things as safety, pollution etc but on the other hand this constant nannying is causing people to think less about what they are doing and so fueling the regulation machine.

As for paint stripper... entry 59, page 5:
http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2010:086:0007:0012:EN:PDF
(too tired to pursue it further to see if "eur-lex..." is a credible website but "official EU journal" is convincing enough for me at this time).
 
There also seems to be a general consensus that any paint stripper in a metal container is no use. Starchem and No Nonsense seem to be brands that give good results.

Right, definitely bed time (pain killers wearing off!).
 
Stretch said:
Nothing too serious I hope - take it easy chap!
Click to expand...
Nah just a couple broken fingers and a fractured hand. Luckily for everyone else, I am quite ambidextrous so I could carry on working, doubt I'll see that extra mile coming back to me though. I'm really starting to hate people recently, must be an age thing.
 
Dan_Trials said:
Nah just a couple broken fingers and a fractured hand. Luckily for everyone else, I am quite ambidextrous so I could carry on working, doubt I'll see that extra mile coming back to me though. I'm really starting to hate people recently, must be an age thing.
Click to expand...
Have a good rant if it helps but don't hate - you'll only end up bitter and twisted

(Cheer up chap!)
 
Last edited:
HTS 2000

The future for Land Rover skin repairs?

(Probably not)

I've been wanting to have a go with this stuff for ages.

Interesting - not especially successful as it turns out.

Here's what I did

#1 Cleaned the surface of that little station wagon panel that goes near to the rear wheel.

Top side

1965 series 2a station wagon hts cleaning panel for hts1.JPG


Underside

1965 series 2a station wagon hts cleaning panel for hts2.JPG


#2 Cut out a bit of steel as a support on to which the HTS can be melted

1965 series 2a station wagon hts cutting out sheet for hts200 support.JPG


#3

Clamp the panel to the steel support

1965 series 2a station wagon hts panel clamped for hts.JPG


#4

Heat up the panel and melt the HTS on it

(I was planning to heat the under plate and then melt from above in a clean way - not enough heat gets through so I had to heat the panel directly)

Here's the first few bits I did

1965 series 2a station wagon hts first bits.JPG


Top side

1965 series 2a station wagon hts first bits2.JPG


It does stick!

After a bit more messing about I got most of the holes filled

1965 series 2a station wagon hts mostly filled1.JPG


1965 series 2a station wagon hts mostly filled2.JPG


The panel is more structurally solid

There is a whole load of distortion though that I'll show in a bit. (Gorra go and get tea on the table - back in a bit)
 
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