On mine the brake ones all look the same length.
On the clutch, it has the front right hand and rear left hand (as in your picture) longer. Nothing extra is on the longer ones. It does have, what was probably, a thick sponge gasket. The long ones might be so they can get the first bit of clamping of the gasket to get the other bolts to start?
My one doesn’t have the additional spring on the clutch pedal.
Hope that helps.
 
V8bob said:
On mine the brake ones all look the same length.
On the clutch, it has the front right hand and rear left hand (as in your picture) longer. Nothing extra is on the longer ones. It does have, what was probably, a thick sponge gasket. The long ones might be so they can get the first bit of clamping of the gasket to get the other bolts to start?
My one doesn’t have the additional spring on the clutch pedal.
Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Thanks for looking, the gasket explanation sounds valid, I did consider ordering a new gasket, as I saw them listed at Rimmers (I am not certain whether there was a previous one fitted, but I cannot find one) but really could see no purpose to one.
 
v8250 said:
@Beddo , great work going on there...she'll be on the road by summer ;)
Thanks, but which summer? I need to get going as we may be moving, and I am struggling to find a house with enough covered area to continue the rebuild. I may have to sell it as a box of bits!


@flat , I've been looking for a w/e accessory to tow on mine...where, of where, do I get one of these launcher rigs...? Have searched LRWorkshop for LR part number but it's not listed :D
Click to expand...
 
Beddo said:
Thanks for looking, the gasket explanation sounds valid, I did consider ordering a new gasket, as I saw them listed at Rimmers (I am not certain whether there was a previous one fitted, but I cannot find one) but really could see no purpose to one.
Click to expand...


I think it will be fine without the gasket if you don’t go out in the rain, or don’t mind a bit of extra noise.
A gasket should stop water running down the bulkhead onto your feet.
It should also reduce noise transfer from engine bay to cab.
 
Does the rain come down the bulkhead into the engine bay? That would account for the rust on the pedal boxes!
Re noise transfer: bring that wonderful V8 sound in. Have you seen the Electric Classics conversion of the Defender to batteries? There is a hell of a lot of transmission noise!
I reckon that's what JLR should do with the old Defender: make it in India as an EV
 
The Bulkhead will probably only get wet at the ends when parked on the flat ground in the rain. But once you drive in the rain the whole bulkhead will be getting a constant mist/shower of water onto it.
 
I just want to share with you my experience with replacing front brake caliper pistons and seals. In a nutshell if you face needing this done, it looks like new calipers are the way forward.
Certainly that is what the mechanic at PA Blanchard (ex military LR specialist) does. And I can see why, but their reason is the awkwardness of fitting the piston dust seal retainer, and time taken to clean up the old calipers.

Having ordered and had confirmed by the suppliers (Rimmer Bros) and with Blanchards that I have received the correct parts according to my vehicle details, albeit LR list it as a 110, when it is in fact a 127!
The pistons fit the calipers, but the seals DO NOT fit either. Wrong seals obviously? You would think that must be an easy fix, but I went to JSF in Norwich and none of their seal kits fit the pistons/calipers either.
Blanchard were very helpful in checking their stock items, and the piston and seals as listed, are indeed incompatible.

I am not certain what to do now, other than order new calipers. But for those, there are big differences in prices: TRW - £35, aftermarket - £44, genuine - £623 !! All plus VAT, according to Rimmer's website
Costs alone suggest that is the way forward: New pistons (in stainless steel) were £30 per caliper, caliper repair kits are reasonable at £7, but the caliper O rings (genuine) are £12 a pair. (I bought a selection box of round O rings for less than that)
Another conclusion: LR charge extortionate prices for genuine spares.
I have wasted many hours cleaning and painting the original calipers. Learn from my experience guys.

The seal to the right of the new piston is the original dust seal
The two to the left are the undersized new ones
GetAttachmentThumbnail
 
Beddo said:
I just want to share with you my experience with replacing front brake caliper pistons and seals. In a nutshell if you face needing this done, it looks like new calipers are the way forward.
Certainly that is what the mechanic at PA Blanchard (ex military LR specialist) does. And I can see why, but their reason is the awkwardness of fitting the piston dust seal retainer, and time taken to clean up the old calipers.

Having ordered and had confirmed by the suppliers (Rimmer Bros) and with Blanchards that I have received the correct parts according to my vehicle details, albeit LR list it as a 110, when it is in fact a 127!
The pistons fit the calipers, but the seals DO NOT fit either. Wrong seals obviously? You would think that must be an easy fix, but I went to JSF in Norwich and none of their seal kits fit the pistons/calipers either.
Blanchard were very helpful in checking their stock items, and the piston and seals as listed, are indeed incompatible.

I am not certain what to do now, other than order new calipers. But for those, there are big differences in prices: TRW - £35, aftermarket - £44, genuine - £623 !! All plus VAT, according to Rimmer's website
Costs alone suggest that is the way forward: New pistons (in stainless steel) were £30 per caliper, caliper repair kits are reasonable at £7, but the caliper O rings (genuine) are £12 a pair. (I bought a selection box of round O rings for less than that)
Another conclusion: LR charge extortionate prices for genuine spares.
I have wasted many hours cleaning and painting the original calipers. Learn from my experience guys.

The seal to the right of the new piston is the original dust seal
The two to the left are the undersized new ones
GetAttachmentThumbnail
Click to expand...
Buy the after market ones.
Then you have a full refurb kit to rebuild in a few years.

I do hate when you go to a shop & can’t get the correct items to suit.
 
Good call Phil. The thought of sending those parts back to Rimmer Bros was even more daunting than rebuilding the calipers.
I will preserve those O rings in silicone lubricant: 6 quid each!!
I won't bore you my attempts to buy new brake pad anti rattle clips!
 
Beddo said:
Good call Phil. The thought of sending those parts back to Rimmer Bros was even more daunting than rebuilding the calipers.
I will preserve those O rings in silicone lubricant: 6 quid each!!
I won't bore you my attempts to buy new brake pad anti rattle clips!
Click to expand...
My local landy man just gives me a book to find the correct pictures.
I’m lucky I have a bearing suppliers & hydrolic piston repair shops next door to them. I just wander round with bits for them to build.
 
To give an update on the brake caliper gut buster: I was struggling with the idea of replacing the whole calipers. Particularly after all the effort I had put in to the cleaning and painting of the AP originals.
So I simply measured the pistons and searched on the bay for seals of that size. Received from the good folk at XPLOR, and fitted them yesterday. The dust seals were surprisingly easy to fit.
Lesson to be learnt: Both Rimmers and Blanchards are reliant on Land Rover data, via Reg No or VINs and it appears these are not always accurate. Confirmed by Rimmers stating that their system shows mine as a 110!
 
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