It does seem a shame to hand paint it with Hammerite, after all that effort. As I do not have any spraying equipment. I have the two part chassis paint, but the finish looked awful on my chassis. I got that all blasted off. I could always pay yet another visit to my powder coaters.
Here's an off the wall query for Cavey_P38 Who was impressed by the tow bar mount. So was I until I could not recall how it went together!
What do those two dimples do next the lowest holes of that mounting plate? which I think must be made from the armour of a Centurion tank.
A mate suggested incorrect drilling, but on two?
What do those two dimples do next the lowest holes of that mounting plate? which I think must be made from the armour of a Centurion tank.
A mate suggested incorrect drilling, but on two?
flat
Well-Known Member
i think it is is slightly different sizing on some drop plates - nato hitch and 4 bolt civilian hitch don’t always match up!
tbh I wouldn’t powder coat anything, you would be better using a proper zinc based primer and 2 pack paint.
Powder coat looks awesome but one crack and water gets behind and accelerates rot as the water gets trapped behind the plastic layer.
mad you are never going to see this tank I would go for longevity over ‘pretty’ tbh
buzz weld is a good paint system
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Bet they started to drill it, realised it was wrong and knowing it would be hard to start new hole so close to the wrong one, so simply flipped plate and drilled from other side.
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As flat said, No don’t powder coat it. Water gets in under that. Also as flat said, a good zinc based undercoat. I am old, so would use Red Oxide primer and then something with a gloss finish on top. The gloss is more waterproof than a matt. In my view hammerite is only slightly better than powder coating because it chips easily.
I haven’t used any of the modern fandangled paints, this is why I left the suggestions to the youngsters.
I haven’t used any of the modern fandangled paints, this is why I left the suggestions to the youngsters.
Thanks for theories/suggestions guys. Perhaps the tooling that drills that plate was a dual drill, and the oh s**t moment came as they started drilling both.
Re the powder coating: My fear and your comments of plastic coating chipping off has been realised.: the suspension top links were coated by a different company to the chassis (I did question durability of the chassis coating) both have come away in small areas, and it appears easy to just continue lifting those coatings. I just need to ignore them and touch in those areas, rather than treating them as scabs.
NB the lifted areas were due to me being hand fisted and have not self lifted. I dropped the drop link and hit the end of the chassis with the axle! What's the chances of dropping the petrol tanks?
Re the powder coating: My fear and your comments of plastic coating chipping off has been realised.: the suspension top links were coated by a different company to the chassis (I did question durability of the chassis coating) both have come away in small areas, and it appears easy to just continue lifting those coatings. I just need to ignore them and touch in those areas, rather than treating them as scabs.
NB the lifted areas were due to me being hand fisted and have not self lifted. I dropped the drop link and hit the end of the chassis with the axle! What's the chances of dropping the petrol tanks?
I got a price for spraying the tanks from a company recommended as being reasonably priced: £200 per tank! each one nearly twice as much as buying a new painted tank!
I brought them home, a little more extreme cleaning and one half hand painted with POR15, which went on fine, time will tell if it dries ok (it's cold in the shed!)
The instructions say it needs a topcoat if exposed to sunlight, I will risk a second coat of POR15 only.
Re advise on paints: I realise that a lot of people have different loyalties to their favourite paint manufacturers. After buying the POR15 many years ago, I then came across a comparison test with a Rustbeater paint, where the latter's product came out far better. I think it was Practical Classics, and that award is mentioned on the Rustbeater website, but I cannot now find the actual review. However, for me. the convenience that POR15 is not mixed and it came in handy small tins, so will be much easier for touching in that self inflicted damage.
After reading the review I did buy the Rustbeater product, after using it on the chassis, before getting that powder coated. So I have loads left, free to a good home, if anyone in the Norwich area wants to collect it. Posting it would be too painful..
Note to self: keep these ramblings briefer
I brought them home, a little more extreme cleaning and one half hand painted with POR15, which went on fine, time will tell if it dries ok (it's cold in the shed!)
The instructions say it needs a topcoat if exposed to sunlight, I will risk a second coat of POR15 only.
Re advise on paints: I realise that a lot of people have different loyalties to their favourite paint manufacturers. After buying the POR15 many years ago, I then came across a comparison test with a Rustbeater paint, where the latter's product came out far better. I think it was Practical Classics, and that award is mentioned on the Rustbeater website, but I cannot now find the actual review. However, for me. the convenience that POR15 is not mixed and it came in handy small tins, so will be much easier for touching in that self inflicted damage.
After reading the review I did buy the Rustbeater product, after using it on the chassis, before getting that powder coated. So I have loads left, free to a good home, if anyone in the Norwich area wants to collect it. Posting it would be too painful..
Note to self: keep these ramblings briefer
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i am with @lynall here drilling error..
looks bloody thick reckon u could tow a tank with it...
like the twin tanks yours are in better nick than mine i have twin tanks on my 110 project thread...
Both leak...rear mount is all right price wise side tank is bloody twice the money, dependant on where the filler cap is on the side one...
Shippers
Well-Known Member
Thats the tank and thats the gunge inside on the drain cock I'm cleaning out...
And this is my system on the Rover P6 shell I'm working on...View attachment 229448 View attachment 229449 View attachment 229450
The convertor gives a good etch into any residual rust spots that may exist and any flash rust on bare metal before you get non porous primer on it...customers S2 I'm working on put new door tops on 8yrs ago and left in grey primer...View attachment 229451
Another vote for converting the rust before doing anything else.... my own preferance is for Fertan, which need water to work, and I like the irony 
....
Then paint with an etch primer, and then I use tractol paint ( on eblag ), as it is solvent based, and quite unpleasant toxicity wise .... ( take precautions )...
Undersides I use fertan as required, and then coat with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 wax - I'd suggest this might be useful on your damaged powder coated stuff too, as it will creep under the powder coat, keeping the water out...
Sadly, there will be rust you have missed on your tanks - if you apply a converter, you'll get to see the rust being destroyed in the tiny pits which you can't get to .... not even sandblasting can get to them all .... ask me how I know .....
.... Then paint with an etch primer, and then I use tractol paint ( on eblag ), as it is solvent based, and quite unpleasant toxicity wise .... ( take precautions )...
Undersides I use fertan as required, and then coat with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 wax - I'd suggest this might be useful on your damaged powder coated stuff too, as it will creep under the powder coat, keeping the water out...
Sadly, there will be rust you have missed on your tanks - if you apply a converter, you'll get to see the rust being destroyed in the tiny pits which you can't get to .... not even sandblasting can get to them all .... ask me how I know
.....
